Continuing Brake Woes

[reidc]

It's a solid chunk of cast iron.
What issue is it giving you?

It may be a solid hunk of iron- but it also has holes for slider pins.
I already have a problem with one of the right side sticking, or stiff, and I have lubed it4 times in 6 months. Gave it a rinsing with my fav cleaner/degreaser, and made sure it was cleaned out. This last time I used a synthetic grease, and it was harder/slower to move than the others. I can't really see any imperfections on the pins at all.

Chris

[SteveB]

It may be a solid hunk of iron- but it also has holes for slider pins.
I already have a problem with one of the right side sticking, or stiff, and I have lubed it4 times in 6 months. Gave it a rinsing with my fav cleaner/degreaser, and made sure it was cleaned out. This last time I used a synthetic grease, and it was harder/slower to move than the others. I can't really see any imperfections on the pins at all.

Chris

I'll bet dollars to doughnuts you can by the pins separately, and cheaply.

Just checked. 9 bucks at Majestic. The have been know to have a slight bend in them....

[reidc]

Yah-

I will try a Pin kit- unfortunately- I stopped a Honda stealer this afternoon to buy Slider Pins. Guy says there are only 2 dealers on the whole East Cost that has these- Kelly Honda in Lynn Mass, and the other in either Newburgh or Beacon NY!!!

Did some searching just now and find there actually is an aftermarket replacement from Raybestos. Gotta hope my local Advance Auto has one.

Chris

[reidc]

Late followup-

Since January- I have replaced the Rear Calipers, and replaced the fronts with loaded calipers so that I got new caliper brackets and sliding hardware.

I have also replaced all 4 rotors within the last week. My fronts are already shuddering slightly.

In my 30 years of working on all of my own brakes- I have never run into anything like this.

I asked my mechanic about it when I had him install rear struts(I truly trust this guy)- and I specifically asked about prop valve and why I had so much heat in front compared to the slight heat in rears. Rather than change out Prop valve- he suggested replacing the lines(hoses) to the calpers. I did some searching here and found out there are Stainless steel hoses to replace the rubber units. Are these rigid lines that need to come off when replacing brakes in the future- or do they allow some movement in flexibility?

How hard are they to change at the other end? Any suggestions or pros and conns of each?

Thanks
Chris

[d112crzy]

theyre flexible. what brand rotors are you replacing all with?

[reidc]

D11-

I have had Raybestos in there(twice), and a pair of no-names. This time I went with another pair of no-names from Foreign Autopart(or Autopart International).

I got the same life from the cheepies vs the expensive ones.

Chris

[HondaB18]

rubber hoses are better for dd and the new england weather because of its ability to expand

if you have been working on your brakes for 30 years you would know how do to these basic things

general steps are bleed brakes (from calipers, dunno the order), disconnect brake lines, hook up new brake lines and fill with brake fluid. while the lines are bleed check out the proportional valve to see it is working correctly

i'm using duralast (autozone brand) on my integra and i rather have them then the more expensive brembo (which i had on my corolla and noticed no difference) because of the price difference and because i have a 2 year warranty

[reidc]

B18-
I have been doing most all my own brake jobs since mid-1970's- and this is the first time I have run into anything as stubborn as this. OK- I have replaced pads, rotors, shoes, drums, calipers, slider pins, and have bled them many a time. Doing my Pathfinder fronts were the toughest- as you had to pull apart front Hub for 4WD.

Anyway-when I last replaced my rotors(2 weeks ago)- I fubared one ot the calpier bracket bolts on the rear, and never got it pulled. Brought it to my mechanic and just had him replace it. He said pull apart the other rear bracket and pull the stainless steel shims off and wire brush the unit to clean it out. All kind of junk was in there interfering with pad movement. He asked me if I needed to grind the ends of the pads to get em to fit in(which of course I have)- saying I shouldn't have had to do that- just clean out properly.

As an aside- what he did has already made a tremendous difference in overall temps! My two fronts are hot- but don't seem as hot as before- but the rear one my mechanic did is JUST AS hot as the fronts and the rear I did is only barely warm. Looks like I am tearing apart the other side this weekend.

All this stuff sounds like proper process when doing brakes(proper cleaning). As I said- I just never ran into a situation as stubborn as this- and over the years have been lucky that pad/shoe, etc changes have always done the job.

Chris