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    Brake setup

    I have a 93 LX with an h22a. I dont have the rear disc conversion yet but am looking into finding a setup. Will the rear disc conversion make up a whole lot of distance on braking? I was looking into getting some pads and rotors for the front but was just wondering if i would need it with the rear disc on there? Would the rear disc conversion make up for everything so i wouldnt have to get slotted rotors and performance pads on the front?

    #2
    Seeing as though more of your braking gets done by the front brakes I would upgrade those first. Then work on the rear disc brakes.

    Sold, but not forgotten.

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      #3
      So what, get some slotted rotors and just do the rear disc conversion and leave them alone.

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        #4
        Rear disc is pretty much purely Cosmetic. It may help a little bit, but wont justify the cost. Upgrade the fronts.. and slotted and drilled rotors are also pretty much for looks only aswell. But if you wanna spend at least 100 extra for a set of rotors for the front just to have cuts in them, be mu guest. I would much rather run cheaper rotors that cost like 50 for a set and replace them when I need to instead of 150-200 for "pretty" ones that eat up pads.

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          #5
          Originally posted by aero3685
          Rear disc is pretty much purely Cosmetic. It may help a little bit, but wont justify the cost. Upgrade the fronts.. and slotted and drilled rotors are also pretty much for looks only aswell. But if you wanna spend at least 100 extra for a set of rotors for the front just to have cuts in them, be mu guest. I would much rather run cheaper rotors that cost like 50 for a set and replace them when I need to instead of 150-200 for "pretty" ones that eat up pads.

          i thought drilled and or slotted rotors, are for the longevity of the rotor, and to keep it cool under hard braking. so i'm not sure if its for pure cosmetics, i think theres some reason behind it. they help keep they brakes cool, which help you stop better, cause when they get hot, u lose some stopp[ing power.
          Boosted H22...Underway....Getting parts, and gaining knowledge....first thing to do is diy body work, and paint....H22 Swap should be doen by the end of this month if all goes right...

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            #6
            I'm also looking to do the rear disc conversoin, what do you need?
            Boosted H22...Underway....Getting parts, and gaining knowledge....first thing to do is diy body work, and paint....H22 Swap should be doen by the end of this month if all goes right...

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              #7
              Originally posted by RocSteadyNy
              i thought drilled and or slotted rotors, are for the longevity of the rotor, and to keep it cool under hard braking. so i'm not sure if its for pure cosmetics, i think theres some reason behind it. they help keep they brakes cool, which help you stop better, cause when they get hot, u lose some stopp[ing power.
              slotted rotors help keep the contact between pad and rotor clean...will scrub off glaze when pads over heat

              drilled rotors help keep rotor cool so rotor doesn't overheat pad causing it to glaze

              are you planning on stopping constantly from 120+mph speeds? if not..you don't need drilled or slotted rotors

              if you are experiencing brake fade on the streets then you shouldn't be driving
              For Sale:
              itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
              tr injen sri $80 + shipping

              (2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US

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                #8
                Originally posted by azian21485
                slotted rotors help keep the contact between pad and rotor clean...will scrub off glaze when pads over heat

                drilled rotors help keep rotor cool so rotor doesn't overheat pad causing it to glaze

                are you planning on stopping constantly from 120+mph speeds? if not..you don't need drilled or slotted rotors

                if you are experiencing brake fade on the streets then you shouldn't be driving
                yea, i knew that they weren't for cosmetics, thats what aero was trying to say.
                Boosted H22...Underway....Getting parts, and gaining knowledge....first thing to do is diy body work, and paint....H22 Swap should be doen by the end of this month if all goes right...

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                  #9
                  im curious if it is wroth it to buy power slott slotted or just OE brembo blanks. i have a difference of about $85 BB verus $128 PS. that's a lot of money i can use for somethign else. so i really d k, i am not going to invest much and what these rotors to last well past 100k ( i have 82k now) been on warped rotors for a while.

                  i have axis pads.
                  hahahahah

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by RocSteadyNy
                    yea, i knew that they weren't for cosmetics, thats what aero was trying to say.
                    On a street car that rarely sees track time, thats exactly what they are.

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                      #11
                      actually a gas forms between the pad and rotor under hard braking, and it pushes the pad away from the rotor, this is what creates " brake Fading ". slotted or cross drilled rotors allow the gas to vent or escape to the pads keep a good contact with the rotors, the veins in the rotor are what cools it



                      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=22013
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                        #12
                        Originally posted by cb9tunerguy
                        actually a gas forms between the pad and rotor under hard braking, and it pushes the pad away from the rotor, this is what creates " brake Fading ". slotted or cross drilled rotors allow the gas to vent or escape to the pads keep a good contact with the rotors, the veins in the rotor are what cools it
                        OK, you can go into the stupid scientific crap. But put just regular rotors and x-drilled on a car that is just driving around town, and congrats, you just spent too much for no difference. This has been covered time and time again, and it comes down to looks.

                        Some people are into spending a bunch of money to impress people.. thats fine. Im just saying that for the guy who is trying to upgrade his brakes on a budget, he could more wisely spend his money on blanks and good pads.

                        Same w/the rear disc. Im sure that there is a VERY small difference in stopping distance... negligable small. So that is considered a cosmetic change to me. If I got them for REAL cheap.. i'd stick them on there... more cuz the drums are more of a pain to mess with, but i wont go spend 250 just to look cool.
                        Last edited by aero; 05-06-2005, 10:31 PM.

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                          #13
                          i've talked about drilled and slotted rotors so much that my explanations are getting lazy...so i'll just copy and paste/edit what i wrote on another board =)

                          Originally posted by nfscg
                          they just help release gases created from the pad going against the rotor
                          well..if we were in the 60's this would be true...the compound used today doesn't produce any type of gas so a drilled rotor serving this purpose is useless..what causes brake fade is a glazing effect of pads that overheat (think of sand turning to glass)...slotted rotors can scrub off this glaze and keep a clean contact patch...of course no glazing will occur on the street so no point in getting these

                          however, during wet conditions, a drilled rotor will allow water to escape and keep a clean contact area between pad and rotor

                          slotted / drilled rotors (as already said) help dissipate heat better thus decreasing brake fade.
                          an object with a higher mass content (blanks) will be able to dissipate heat better than an object with a smaller mass content (drilled/slotted)...the higher mass content will absorb the heat and distribute it across itself...the larger the mass, the more distribution and dispersal of heat and the lower the temperature of the object

                          a pad touching a very hot rotor = an overheated pad = glazing

                          with a drilled rotor, you are reducing the mass content thus reducing the ability to disperse heat and lowering the overall temperature..however, what you gain is a larger surface area for air to cool down the rotor....drilled rotor = rapid cooling and rapid heating...good for a tight course where there's not much straight aways to cool down the braking system

                          i heard that drilled were worse because they reduced the part of the brake that was touched,
                          drilled rotors can be effective by reducing the mass of the rotor which reduces the mass of unsprung weight and rotating mass (which is very minimal compared to how much unsprung weight there is)...if you have race pads and 6piston calipers you have enough clamping force to lock up the tires anyways so you don't need the extra contact patch from blank rotors and are able to shed some weight...again not needed on a street car

                          keep in mind that you won't see glazing or overheated pads on the street, autocross, or hpde if you have a decent set of pads and brake fluid

                          drilled or slotted won't make you stop any faster than you're stopping right now

                          so...seeing how they don't out perform a pair of blank rotors for $30 can you justify spending $200 that won't do anything better but look good? then when they wear down (and eat your pads) you'll have to replace them again
                          Last edited by azian21485; 05-07-2005, 01:58 AM.
                          For Sale:
                          itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
                          tr injen sri $80 + shipping

                          (2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US

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                            #14
                            i bought my drilled for the looks.
                            I <3 G60.

                            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                              #15
                              i like the slotted however price differentiates from OE brembo blanks. i want to invest in something that'll last me.

                              i find it odd at times that porsches have drilled and etc etc. but maybe ur idea bout the pistons being enough to clamp the card down enough.. but oh well it looks very much like i will be gettings brembo OE, as it is way cheaper for someone on a budget.

                              and for stopping i think tires will play an important role as well.
                              hahahahah

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