I have a 93 LX with an h22a. I dont have the rear disc conversion yet but am looking into finding a setup. Will the rear disc conversion make up a whole lot of distance on braking? I was looking into getting some pads and rotors for the front but was just wondering if i would need it with the rear disc on there? Would the rear disc conversion make up for everything so i wouldnt have to get slotted rotors and performance pads on the front?
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Rear disc is pretty much purely Cosmetic. It may help a little bit, but wont justify the cost. Upgrade the fronts.. and slotted and drilled rotors are also pretty much for looks only aswell. But if you wanna spend at least 100 extra for a set of rotors for the front just to have cuts in them, be mu guest. I would much rather run cheaper rotors that cost like 50 for a set and replace them when I need to instead of 150-200 for "pretty" ones that eat up pads.
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Originally posted by aero3685Rear disc is pretty much purely Cosmetic. It may help a little bit, but wont justify the cost. Upgrade the fronts.. and slotted and drilled rotors are also pretty much for looks only aswell. But if you wanna spend at least 100 extra for a set of rotors for the front just to have cuts in them, be mu guest. I would much rather run cheaper rotors that cost like 50 for a set and replace them when I need to instead of 150-200 for "pretty" ones that eat up pads.
i thought drilled and or slotted rotors, are for the longevity of the rotor, and to keep it cool under hard braking. so i'm not sure if its for pure cosmetics, i think theres some reason behind it. they help keep they brakes cool, which help you stop better, cause when they get hot, u lose some stopp[ing power.Boosted H22...Underway....Getting parts, and gaining knowledge....first thing to do is diy body work, and paint....H22 Swap should be doen by the end of this month if all goes right...
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Originally posted by RocSteadyNyi thought drilled and or slotted rotors, are for the longevity of the rotor, and to keep it cool under hard braking. so i'm not sure if its for pure cosmetics, i think theres some reason behind it. they help keep they brakes cool, which help you stop better, cause when they get hot, u lose some stopp[ing power.
drilled rotors help keep rotor cool so rotor doesn't overheat pad causing it to glaze
are you planning on stopping constantly from 120+mph speeds? if not..you don't need drilled or slotted rotors
if you are experiencing brake fade on the streets then you shouldn't be drivingFor Sale:
itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
tr injen sri $80 + shipping
(2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US
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Originally posted by azian21485slotted rotors help keep the contact between pad and rotor clean...will scrub off glaze when pads over heat
drilled rotors help keep rotor cool so rotor doesn't overheat pad causing it to glaze
are you planning on stopping constantly from 120+mph speeds? if not..you don't need drilled or slotted rotors
if you are experiencing brake fade on the streets then you shouldn't be drivingBoosted H22...Underway....Getting parts, and gaining knowledge....first thing to do is diy body work, and paint....H22 Swap should be doen by the end of this month if all goes right...
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im curious if it is wroth it to buy power slott slotted or just OE brembo blanks. i have a difference of about $85 BB verus $128 PS. that's a lot of money i can use for somethign else. so i really d k, i am not going to invest much and what these rotors to last well past 100k ( i have 82k now) been on warped rotors for a while.
i have axis pads.hahahahah
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actually a gas forms between the pad and rotor under hard braking, and it pushes the pad away from the rotor, this is what creates " brake Fading ". slotted or cross drilled rotors allow the gas to vent or escape to the pads keep a good contact with the rotors, the veins in the rotor are what cools it
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Originally posted by cb9tunerguyactually a gas forms between the pad and rotor under hard braking, and it pushes the pad away from the rotor, this is what creates " brake Fading ". slotted or cross drilled rotors allow the gas to vent or escape to the pads keep a good contact with the rotors, the veins in the rotor are what cools it
Some people are into spending a bunch of money to impress people.. thats fine. Im just saying that for the guy who is trying to upgrade his brakes on a budget, he could more wisely spend his money on blanks and good pads.
Same w/the rear disc. Im sure that there is a VERY small difference in stopping distance... negligable small. So that is considered a cosmetic change to me. If I got them for REAL cheap.. i'd stick them on there... more cuz the drums are more of a pain to mess with, but i wont go spend 250 just to look cool.Last edited by aero; 05-06-2005, 10:31 PM.
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i've talked about drilled and slotted rotors so much that my explanations are getting lazy...so i'll just copy and paste/edit what i wrote on another board =)
Originally posted by nfscgthey just help release gases created from the pad going against the rotor
however, during wet conditions, a drilled rotor will allow water to escape and keep a clean contact area between pad and rotor
slotted / drilled rotors (as already said) help dissipate heat better thus decreasing brake fade.
a pad touching a very hot rotor = an overheated pad = glazing
with a drilled rotor, you are reducing the mass content thus reducing the ability to disperse heat and lowering the overall temperature..however, what you gain is a larger surface area for air to cool down the rotor....drilled rotor = rapid cooling and rapid heating...good for a tight course where there's not much straight aways to cool down the braking system
i heard that drilled were worse because they reduced the part of the brake that was touched,
keep in mind that you won't see glazing or overheated pads on the street, autocross, or hpde if you have a decent set of pads and brake fluid
drilled or slotted won't make you stop any faster than you're stopping right now
so...seeing how they don't out perform a pair of blank rotors for $30 can you justify spending $200 that won't do anything better but look good? then when they wear down (and eat your pads) you'll have to replace them againLast edited by azian21485; 05-07-2005, 01:58 AM.For Sale:
itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
tr injen sri $80 + shipping
(2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US
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i like the slotted however price differentiates from OE brembo blanks. i want to invest in something that'll last me.
i find it odd at times that porsches have drilled and etc etc. but maybe ur idea bout the pistons being enough to clamp the card down enough.. but oh well it looks very much like i will be gettings brembo OE, as it is way cheaper for someone on a budget.
and for stopping i think tires will play an important role as well.hahahahah
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