**I by no means take credit for this, however it will be done to my car without a doubt**
The pics shown are on a dc2 integra, but there is no reason it shouldn't work on a cb7.
this write up is from AltimaXX from team-integra.net
" I've been wanting to stiffen up my motor mounts but haven't wanted the extra vibration in the cabin at idle. Coming from a silky smooth V6 to an inline four was annoying enough as it was, although I've gotten used to it. I'd been looking into torque dampers as an alternative, but didn't have the money to drop $150 on an ingalls without even knowing how much good it would do. I was walking through my garage and saw my old mountain bike, complete with a rear suspension including a damper and a 750lb/in spring. Damn, I thought, that looks like a torque damper... And so this was born. It consists of two C-pillar bar brackets and a mountain bike shock and spring assembly. Install was relatively easy...just took some experimenting. I've got some adjustability as far as stiffness goes because the spring is actually a sort of adjustable coilover with the shock body bing threaded. There's a NICE difference in the way the car drives. First gear feels more...solid and stable under hard acceleration. Hard shifts are bind-free, unlike stock, and even moderate shifts feel better. There is a slight, but only very slight increase in vibration at idle. but it doesn't bother me. As for durability, this spring/shock was designed to hold up to a full grown man's weight bouncing up and down mountains...I think it will be able to handle the engine's motions. Thanks for looking...opinions are welcome."
"I took a bike shock absorber, and mounted it to my car serving as an engine torque damper. I used: 2 Megan Racing C-pillar bar brackets, the shock, 2 bolts, and 1 extra nut.
The diameter of the endbolts of the shock that I had was very small. There were small sleeves that I could have taken out, but I didn't feel like pressing or hammering them out, so I drilled them out with a 1/2" drill bit. This is optional, though. In order to give myself room to work, I unbolted the cruise control and set it aside (3x10mm bolts) Next I bolted the brackets loosely to the shock.(You want them loose so you can easily experiment with them in a later step) Then I used the extra nut(M10x1.25 maybe? I really don't remember, it's just one I had laying around) to bolt the lower bracket to the FRONT stud on the driver's side motor mount. I'll get better pictures showing this later. Again, you leave the factory nut in place and put this second nut and the bracket on top of the factory nut. This is for clearance of the back stud/nut. Depending on how you place the upper(chassis) bracket of your damper, you may be able to use the back stud. Next part is the interesting part. You just have to play and experiment until you find a suitable place to bolt the upper bracket. Just from eyeballing it, it looks like the strut bolt should work fine. In my case my strut bar is in the way, so I improvised and used the strut bar itself. Once you get the shock brackets lined up and bolted onto the motor mount and chassis, then tighten down the bolts holding the brackets to the shock itself. Bolt the cruise control back down and you're done. Very easy install to be honest, the only hard part is finding places to bolt the thing up.
Sourcing materials: Ebay is your friend. If you want to use C-pillar bar brackets, which I recommend only because they made life very easy, then a cheap ebay c-pillar bar is easy to come by. Yes, they'll be crummy quality, but unlike with a chassis brace, such as a C-pillar bar, it doesn't matter if they flex in this application. For the shock, I also recommend ebay. There are numerous options for bike shocks there, ranging from $10-25. Bolts are just ace hardware specials
NOTE I cannot guarantee that you'll be able to make everything bolt up this easily. You may have to redrill brackets or do some other modification to make everything line up. Anything can be done if you set your mind to it, but it might not be 100% painless.
As for preloading the spring, I don't know what effect that would have. I just tightened it until the spring was compressed enough to hold it in place."
^^What do you guys think? I happen to have the exact same shock/spring assembly from my old mountain bike, so im def going to give it a try.
The pics shown are on a dc2 integra, but there is no reason it shouldn't work on a cb7.
this write up is from AltimaXX from team-integra.net
" I've been wanting to stiffen up my motor mounts but haven't wanted the extra vibration in the cabin at idle. Coming from a silky smooth V6 to an inline four was annoying enough as it was, although I've gotten used to it. I'd been looking into torque dampers as an alternative, but didn't have the money to drop $150 on an ingalls without even knowing how much good it would do. I was walking through my garage and saw my old mountain bike, complete with a rear suspension including a damper and a 750lb/in spring. Damn, I thought, that looks like a torque damper... And so this was born. It consists of two C-pillar bar brackets and a mountain bike shock and spring assembly. Install was relatively easy...just took some experimenting. I've got some adjustability as far as stiffness goes because the spring is actually a sort of adjustable coilover with the shock body bing threaded. There's a NICE difference in the way the car drives. First gear feels more...solid and stable under hard acceleration. Hard shifts are bind-free, unlike stock, and even moderate shifts feel better. There is a slight, but only very slight increase in vibration at idle. but it doesn't bother me. As for durability, this spring/shock was designed to hold up to a full grown man's weight bouncing up and down mountains...I think it will be able to handle the engine's motions. Thanks for looking...opinions are welcome."
"I took a bike shock absorber, and mounted it to my car serving as an engine torque damper. I used: 2 Megan Racing C-pillar bar brackets, the shock, 2 bolts, and 1 extra nut.
The diameter of the endbolts of the shock that I had was very small. There were small sleeves that I could have taken out, but I didn't feel like pressing or hammering them out, so I drilled them out with a 1/2" drill bit. This is optional, though. In order to give myself room to work, I unbolted the cruise control and set it aside (3x10mm bolts) Next I bolted the brackets loosely to the shock.(You want them loose so you can easily experiment with them in a later step) Then I used the extra nut(M10x1.25 maybe? I really don't remember, it's just one I had laying around) to bolt the lower bracket to the FRONT stud on the driver's side motor mount. I'll get better pictures showing this later. Again, you leave the factory nut in place and put this second nut and the bracket on top of the factory nut. This is for clearance of the back stud/nut. Depending on how you place the upper(chassis) bracket of your damper, you may be able to use the back stud. Next part is the interesting part. You just have to play and experiment until you find a suitable place to bolt the upper bracket. Just from eyeballing it, it looks like the strut bolt should work fine. In my case my strut bar is in the way, so I improvised and used the strut bar itself. Once you get the shock brackets lined up and bolted onto the motor mount and chassis, then tighten down the bolts holding the brackets to the shock itself. Bolt the cruise control back down and you're done. Very easy install to be honest, the only hard part is finding places to bolt the thing up.
Sourcing materials: Ebay is your friend. If you want to use C-pillar bar brackets, which I recommend only because they made life very easy, then a cheap ebay c-pillar bar is easy to come by. Yes, they'll be crummy quality, but unlike with a chassis brace, such as a C-pillar bar, it doesn't matter if they flex in this application. For the shock, I also recommend ebay. There are numerous options for bike shocks there, ranging from $10-25. Bolts are just ace hardware specials
NOTE I cannot guarantee that you'll be able to make everything bolt up this easily. You may have to redrill brackets or do some other modification to make everything line up. Anything can be done if you set your mind to it, but it might not be 100% painless.
As for preloading the spring, I don't know what effect that would have. I just tightened it until the spring was compressed enough to hold it in place."
^^What do you guys think? I happen to have the exact same shock/spring assembly from my old mountain bike, so im def going to give it a try.
idk whats going on with it
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