I recently got an alignment done on the cb after installing an ESP traction bar because I was feeling some weird steering issues. Plus its good anyway.. The tech says that my caster is way off and the traction bar maxed out of adjustment. Like physically maxed out no more threads. He said it needs to be like an inch more forward to get the desired caster. Have any of you guys heard of anything like this or have a solution? Also, I have FFC rear LCA's and Toe arms. And now he is saying that I need adjustable rear toe arms to fix the toe?(After spending all that $) What are the best adjustable rear toe arms for the cb? Megan is the only ones I've found and I usually do not like Megan products. Or of some way I can fix toe with the FFC rear toe arms would be ideal! Thanks guys any input would be appreciated
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I haven’t had an issue with getting the front aligned. Especially caster, toe was always the issue with my set-up but that’s because of how low I am. It would rub the fender to get it into spec. What’s your suspension set up?
As for the rear I have FFC rear LCA and Toe arms. I haven’t gotten the rear aligned yet, but I believe your only option is Megan and I think hard racing may make some. Or doing the washer trick.~Nick~
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93
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I've had no issues too. Running 3.4 - 3.8 caster on the front. With a ESP Traction bar. And mine is maxed out too. Whats your #s?Originally posted by Smiley_cb7 View Post
You'll need some rear camber if you're going low. I use ingals as they have the angle to them.
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Setup is GC/Koni yellows.. I usually stay away from Megan but it seems those rear toe arms do get decent reviews so that may be an option for the rear. My main concern is the front thoOriginally posted by Grumpys93 View PostComment
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Nah, I'm not too worried about rear camber, unless you're talking about one that can effect toe as well? But yeah, caster is 2.5 Lf and 2.3 Rf MAXED out.Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
Camber's 3* and toe in front is .01* Rear toe is off .3 and .12*
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Riight, so something is not correct. Your ESP bar is showing no threads like mine?Originally posted by Smiley_cb7 View Post
Nah, I'm not too worried about rear camber, unless you're talking about one that can effect toe as well? But yeah, caster is 2.5 Lf and 2.3 Rf MAXED out. Camber's 3* and toe in front is .01* Rear toe is off .3 and .12*
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Yes sir looks just like that.. idk I’m gonna have to do something.. either switch to an Innovative traction bar or go back to stock crossmember.. because let me tell you I can feel it, steering feels sketchy afOriginally posted by Raf99 View Post
Riight, so something is not correct. Your ESP bar is showing no threads like mine?
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But hold on. Are cars are identical and the amount of lowered doesn't account for the caster. (I'm 2.2" lowered running 2 degrees camber). So this implies your ESP bar is different. Measure the silver part of the ESP traction bar, what's the length?
This and does your wheel not look centred in the wheel well?
edit: the LCA portion installed correctly too?
Last edited by Raf99; 10-17-2020, 09:31 PM.Comment
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Bump for update? I just finished installing mine, so the thread's making me a bit nervous...Comment
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Nah, no update yet.. the car's in the body shop right now, but I plan on tackling the issue once it's out..Originally posted by CyborgGT View PostComment
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I wonder what caster degree the alignment guy was trying to aim for? What's OEM? mine is 3.4 - 3.8 caster...Comment
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Does anyone know what those adjuster arms are called, that are threaded at both ends? If I had a name, an easy fix for any alignment problems there would be to just find arms of the right length. I feel like I'm getting close with the word "turnbuckle," and I can't imagine them costing much. I'm pretty sure the ESP arms are threaded 5/8"-16 (-18?) for the heim joints. I won't be getting mine aligned until probably spring or early summer, but I'm getting visible toe-out with the heims adjusted all the way in like in Raf's first photo.
... I'm kinda wanting to see if Innovative's arms would work, since they sell them separately. I would LOVE to get rid of that heim joint on the LCA. It's more than a little annoying that the Innovative bar has the solid LCA end of the radius rods and the mounting bracket for the stock front-to-back subframe brace while the ESP doesn't... but the ESP has the torque strut and ABS plate that the Innovative doesn't.Last edited by CyborgGT; 12-19-2021, 01:58 PM.Comment
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I think what you are looking for are radius rods? They come in a few internal thread dimensions and can be purchased in a multitude of lengths.
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Yes! Thank you. I knew the stock arms on the car were called radius rods, but assumed that this aftermarket part itself was something else that the automotive community repurposed.
I'm thinking that an ESP traction bar could be made perfect if only I got a pair of those in the right length, kept a heim joint on the subframe end, and then found a fabricator to make the other end solid to bolt onto the LCA - either weld a solid end onto it, or make it threaded for further adjustability. Probably look into getting the traction bar itself modified to accept the stock brace that runs under the engine, too.Last edited by CyborgGT; 12-19-2021, 02:33 PM.Comment
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Oh yeah btw I ditched the ESP and went with the Innovative traction bar and it does come with the torque mount option now, I got it ...Comment
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