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    #46
    Well.. my luck never leaves me. Went to get an alignment, and of course, his alignment computer crashed last night, and couldnt get it back up. He tried a few times again this morning, and nothing. So, looks like I will be waiting yet another week.

    He said it must be the wheels/tires, but the only thing that I wonder about that is the fact that I rotated the tires, and swapped wheels/tires from our other accord, and still had the problems.

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      #47
      Damn guys, I'm stumped. I have no movement in anything. When I try to wiggle my tires in any direction I either end up lifting the entire thing on the suspension or end up actually turning both wheels.

      But no wiggle. Everything is tight. I was surprised at how tight my axles were.
      members/ride | the/website
      180 hp/145 ft-lb

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        #48
        Originally posted by 92acclude
        Damn guys, I'm stumped. I have no movement in anything. When I try to wiggle my tires in any direction I either end up lifting the entire thing on the suspension or end up actually turning both wheels.

        But no wiggle. Everything is tight. I was surprised at how tight my axles were.
        Yup, same here. My bro's cb7 is here, so I am going to try to compare stuff, and see if anything looks outta whack.

        Also looking at another cb7 today if the guy will email me back, might have a/c again

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          #49
          get your tires balanced and your rotors checked, done and done.

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            #50
            Originally posted by 91accordwagon
            get your tires balanced and your rotors checked, done and done.
            rotors are warped. But I dont think they would cause a vibration unless you are braking. And I dont really want to replace anything anymore unless its really got a chance of solving the problem.

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              #51
              Originally posted by aero
              rotors are warped. But I dont think they would cause a vibration unless you are braking. And I dont really want to replace anything anymore unless its really got a chance of solving the problem.
              Id get it fixed regardless, It would help you figure out whats wrong, and who knows that may be your problem through process of elimination. Also, a badly warped rotor will screw up your steering rack over time braking. I really hope to click on this thread one day and read youve found the problem.


              "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
              "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
              "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

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                #52
                Originally posted by starchland
                Id get it fixed regardless, It would help you figure out whats wrong, and who knows that may be your problem through process of elimination. Also, a badly warped rotor will screw up your steering rack over time braking. I really hope to click on this thread one day and read youve found the problem.
                Yeah... usually I have everything done as it is needed. But this problem is just giving me more and more reason to get rid of the car. Of course, selling it wont get me any money... so thats where I am stuck at. No point in putting more money into it if I really dont feel like driving it anymore.

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                  #53
                  Swapped the wheels/tires off my bro's 91se, and had the vibration just like normal.

                  Just figured something out though. My passenger side wheel studs are shorter than my drivers side ones. When AutoZone gave me them, they gave me ones that are like 3mm shorter. I am not sure if that is really going to make a difference though, they are all the same on each side.. just the two sides are a little different.

                  Anyone wanna buy a cheap h22 swapped car?!

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                    #54
                    what about hubcentric rings? worth looking into


                    "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
                    "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
                    "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by starchland
                      what about hubcentric rings? worth looking into
                      I havent messed with them before... are any old ones good? These say they are better than metal ones.

                      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HUBCE...QQcmdZViewItem

                      Do they crush so the wheel will still sit where it is, or do they push the wheel out like spacers? I guess I will try a set and see what happens. 10 bucks, cant complain.

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                        #56
                        From what ive read, the ring makes the wheel sit perfectly centered on the bolt pattern, where as without it, the slight tolerance between the studs and the lug pattern would cause the wheel to be slightly off. Make sure you get the correct size as each wheel is different.

                        I will probably pick these up if they work for you after I get new tires and alignment.


                        "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
                        "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
                        "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

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                          #57
                          Originally posted by aero
                          I havent messed with them before... are any old ones good? These say they are better than metal ones.

                          http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HUBCE...QQcmdZViewItem

                          Do they crush so the wheel will still sit where it is, or do they push the wheel out like spacers? I guess I will try a set and see what happens. 10 bucks, cant complain.
                          Get the plastic ones so there is no galvanic corrosion issues between the hub and the ring. Measure your rim centre bore to ensure you get the right size. Accord hub requires a 64.10 (or 64.15) ID ring, obviously OD is to match your rims.
                          Measure carefully. The ones in your link won't work for Accords, centre bore is too small.

                          I did these a week and a half ago, and yeah, it made a difference in vibration, not gone completely, but much reduced. Good bang for buck.
                          2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
                          Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
                          1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

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                            #58
                            Originally posted by SteveB
                            Get the plastic ones so there is no galvanic corrosion issues between the hub and the ring. Measure your rim centre bore to ensure you get the right size. Accord hub requires a 64.10 (or 64.15) ID ring, obviously OD is to match your rims.
                            Measure carefully. The ones in your link won't work for Accords, centre bore is too small.

                            I did these a week and a half ago, and yeah, it made a difference in vibration, not gone completely, but much reduced. Good bang for buck.
                            hmm... well i purchased some that said they were for accords. Guess we will see when they get here.

                            I put my front shocks on almost full stiff (tokicos ... 4 outta 5), and the vibration was a little less violent, but still there. They were on 1.

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                              #59
                              If increasing the damping force on the front shocks, made the vibration lessen....

                              That means the the suspension is actually damping the vibration. Does that mean the suspension is moving because of the vibration. Or is the suspension itself causing it.

                              Are our front shocks blown?

                              Are there bushings that have failed that are cauing it. I have ES bushing in the entire front. Could some sag in those be causing enough play to create an issue?
                              members/ride | the/website
                              180 hp/145 ft-lb

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                                #60
                                Originally posted by 92acclude
                                If increasing the damping force on the front shocks, made the vibration lessen....

                                That means the the suspension is actually damping the vibration. Does that mean the suspension is moving because of the vibration. Or is the suspension itself causing it.

                                Are our front shocks blown?

                                Are there bushings that have failed that are cauing it. I have ES bushing in the entire front. Could some sag in those be causing enough play to create an issue?
                                My bushings are all old...I have thought about replacing them, but its a lot of work, especially if it wont solve my problem.

                                As far as the shocks being blown.. thats a possibility also, but with the "bounce test" they seem to be perfectly fine.

                                My passenger front tire is the only one that seems to be wearing weird (on inner side of tire, the rear of tread is not worn like the rest of the tire).

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