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sway bar straut tower bar etc etc etc....

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    sway bar straut tower bar etc etc etc....

    i haven't been on the site for a while but that don't mean i haven't done anyting to the car.

    the car is a 93 accord ex. which means it has a sway bar in front and back.
    if i buy a aftermarket sway bar will i notice any differece? are they any bigger or what

    tower bar braces.... i have a generic one in front. and while one of my bushings on the sway bar gave up,,, i could feel the difference on the way the car handled with the generic straut tower bar...... if i get a one piece straut bar is it really gona change a whole deal.
    and in the end. are the tower straut bar in the back the same or is there a one piece straut bar for the back too.
    are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

    #2
    I first put on my upper front tower brace and noticed a huge difference...then I put on my rear and it changed the handling characteristics of the car entirely. I haven't upgraded my sway bars but I know the car would handle completely different once I do.

    The thing about FWD cars is they already have understeer and if you add a stiffer larger front sway bar this will increase the understeer and IMO decrease your handling. I would honestly say if you upgrade to a stiffer/thicker sway bar at both front and rear I wouldn't recommend a front upper strut tower brace.

    Worst case put on all sway bars and both front and rear strut tower braces and see what you like , if you don't like how it pushes in the turns try taking off the front upper tower brace.

    Hope that helps.
    Last edited by aero; 12-16-2005, 11:07 AM.
    No more cb7, 7 years of ownership and 196K on the ticker before she was sold

    Current beast: 98 ej8 on 7psi with a 15g turbo and other goodies!

    NREMT-B | 300D and some glass

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      #3
      is there a big difference between generic strut bars and the one piece ones?
      are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

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        #4
        Originally posted by alb_accord
        is there a big difference between generic strut bars and the one piece ones?
        no....but there is a differance between one piece strut bars and 3 piece strut bars. one piece is always better becuase theres no weak point....as apose to a strut bar thats bolted together would be weaker than a one piece that is welded together.....get it? megan strut bars as just as good as DC,
        [deevergote]" It's not the car that makes the ricer... it's the ricer that ruins the car!"

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          #5
          Originally posted by VRDrvr

          The thing about FWD cars is they already have oversteer and if you add a stiffer larger front sway bar this will increase the oversteer and IMO decrease your handling. I would honestly say if you upgrade to a stiffer/thicker sway bar at both front and rear I wouldn't recommend a front upper strut tower brace.

          Worst case put on all sway bars and both front and rear strut tower braces and see what you like , if you don't like how it pushes in the turns try taking off the front upper tower brace.

          Hope that helps.
          Okay, it's actually understeer, not oversteer. Big difference. I happen to like oversteer a lot better, because it's actually easier to control(I think).

          As far as strut towers go, get them as big and beefy as you can, or at least well designed. A suspension setup can be too stiff, but a chassis cannot.

          I believe that most people find that for the street/occasional racer an aftermarket rear sway with the stock front is the way to go. That is my current setup as well.
          -Jay

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Bluejayde
            Okay, it's actually understeer, not oversteer. Big difference. I happen to like oversteer a lot better, because it's actually easier to control(I think).

            As far as strut towers go, get them as big and beefy as you can, or at least well designed. A suspension setup can be too stiff, but a chassis cannot.

            I believe that most people find that for the street/occasional racer an aftermarket rear sway with the stock front is the way to go. That is my current setup as well.
            My bad, sometimes I get them confused .

            I would recommend a 3 piece strut tower brace over a 'generic' strut tower brace, the 3 piece actually bolts to the firewall and as you can imagine increases chassis rigidity.

            No more cb7, 7 years of ownership and 196K on the ticker before she was sold

            Current beast: 98 ej8 on 7psi with a 15g turbo and other goodies!

            NREMT-B | 300D and some glass

            Comment


              #7
              well the car is lowered but it still has a little bit of body roll. me and my friend are trying to eliminate the body roll as the car would be occasionally used for auto X..... we are trying to put wider rims and tires in the back so it get better stability on strong turns etc,, but them again the cb7 chasis allows u to put a limited wider rim which sucks. because wider rims and tires on asphalt means better stability and traction.
              are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by VRDrvr
                My bad, sometimes I get them confused .

                I would recommend a 3 piece strut tower brace over a 'generic' strut tower brace, the 3 piece actually bolts to the firewall and as you can imagine increases chassis rigidity.

                You mean a 3 POINT tower bar. There are 2 different types of upper bars. Neuspeed and the others(megan, dc, egay etc). neuspeed is one single unit so it doesnt flex as much. Any other regular ebay bar connects the points, but most of them bolt together, and can pivot, which doesnt provide for the maximum stiffness. DC and any ones that look like this first image are all the same... just different color and price.

                anything like this just connects to the strut mouting points only.. one point


                is weaker than this...


                The neuspeed bar connects to the control arm mounting points. Main difference is the fact that it is a solid bar all the way through. Doesnt flex liek the other one would where the two parts come together.

                If you already have a front and rear sway bar, You could upgrade the rear since the stock rear is pretty much worthless. Upgrading the front will hinder your ability to get more oversteer, which is what you are trying to get.
                Last edited by aero; 05-01-2005, 04:01 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by SteveB
                  Top bar shown connects to strut mounts, Neupseed bar connects to upper control arm mounting bolts _only_.
                  I knew something didnt sound right... thats what happens when you are hungry.
                  Lemme update it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by alb_accord
                    well the car is lowered but it still has a little bit of body roll. me and my friend are trying to eliminate the body roll as the car would be occasionally used for auto X..... we are trying to put wider rims and tires in the back so it get better stability on strong turns etc,, but them again the cb7 chasis allows u to put a limited wider rim which sucks. because wider rims and tires on asphalt means better stability and traction.
                    if you are autox, be aware of the rules of the class you're in...not all strut bars are allowed
                    For Sale:
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                    tr injen sri $80 + shipping

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                      #11
                      i said occasionaly lol not all the time. but there are some streets where there isnt' a lot of traffic and we like to test our suspension there.
                      are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

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