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removing ball joint from upper control arm

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    removing ball joint from upper control arm

    i checked the helms...and i'm sorta unclear on what to do...

    i have a pair of upper control arms..but i need to take off the ball joints that are attatched to them

    do i just use a ball joint remover and push them off (if this is so, it seems a hammer will do fine as well)? what do i do about the boot that is attatched? will the boot get in the way?
    For Sale:
    itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
    tr injen sri $80 + shipping

    (2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US

    #2
    dont use a hammer on it! hahah thats how i fuked up the threads..

    go buy a ball joint seperator from the store, its like 8 bucks...shove it in there and press down....it will come off...id spray some like bolt breaker just under the bolt first though

    its one or the other, push down or pull up...but it will get it out.

    then go in the engine and remove the 2 huge bolts that hold the control arm in place. then you are set.

    be sure to get new pins for that castle bolt, weird bolt on the ball joint.

    take the tire off too.
    What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

    You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

    Retro!

    Hater

    I love nooBs...They make me look good

    Comment


      #3
      I'm not sure if you mean seperating the arm from the knuckle or removing the balljoint from the arm. Anyways, I'll explain both.

      For removing the upper balljoint from the knuckle, remove the castle nut and flip it upside down and screw it back in until the flat side is flush with the stud. Use a hammer and hit the nut you just flipped over upwards and that is usually more than enough to pop the joint out of the knuckle. It's important you thread the nut enough or the stud will still collapse where the holes for the cotter pins are plus you don't want to damage the threads). The nut acts as a reinforcement sleeve when hitting the stud plus it gives you more of a bigger surface to hit with the hammer. Remove the nut and the 2 bolts in the engine bay and the arm is out.

      Now for removing the balljoint from the arm itself, take off the circular clip holding the rubber boot and remove the boot as well. If you look closely, you'll see a snap ring (c shaped clip) at the base of the balljoint. You'll have to pry it out or if it's the kind with the rings on the ends, use a snap ring plier. Wipe clean the arm and balljoint (on the top side) and you'll notice a dot on the balljoint and a dot on the arm (you'll need the marks later). Lay the arm upside down on a table vise or two blocks of wood (with the space in the middle so the balljoint can come out). Put that castle nut back on (like when removing the balljoint from the knuckle) and make sure the stud is straight up.Tap the stud with a hammer until the balljoint comes out.
      Install is the reverse or removal. Just make sure the two dots are aligned when putting the balljoint back in.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by YK86
        Now for removing the balljoint from the arm itself, take off the circular clip holding the rubber boot and remove the boot as well. If you look closely, you'll see a snap ring (c shaped clip) at the base of the balljoint. You'll have to pry it out or if it's the kind with the rings on the ends, use a snap ring plier. Wipe clean the arm and balljoint (on the top side) and you'll notice a dot on the balljoint and a dot on the arm (you'll need the marks later). Lay the arm upside down on a table vise or two blocks of wood (with the space in the middle so the balljoint can come out). Put that castle nut back on (like when removing the balljoint from the knuckle) and make sure the stud is straight up.Tap the stud with a hammer until the balljoint comes out.
        Install is the reverse or removal. Just make sure the two dots are aligned when putting the balljoint back in.
        cool this was what i was looking for

        i bought these arms separate and i don't have a castle nut (it's on the ball joint attatched to the car) so can i use any type of screw or bolt? the castle nut is just there to be used as a surface for hitting with right?
        For Sale:
        itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
        tr injen sri $80 + shipping

        (2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US

        Comment


          #5
          Yes you separate the arm from the Knuckle. If you have an AutoZone near you they will rent you one for like 10 bux and then refund you money after you bring it back. It looks like a fork with 2 prongs and you stick it between the ball joints and hammer on the back of the remover. Just keep pounding it until it pops loose, make sure you have taken off the nut and cotter pin though. PM me if you have anymore questions

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by azian21485
            cool this was what i was looking for

            i bought these arms separate and i don't have a castle nut (it's on the ball joint attatched to the car) so can i use any type of screw or bolt? the castle nut is just there to be used as a surface for hitting with right?
            I use the nut to keep the stud from warping when hitting it with a hammer and to give me a bigger surface area to hit. As long as it's the same thread pitch (screws right on) then any nut will be ok. Just screw it on enough so the nut is flush with the stud. This will safely support the holes in the stud (for the cotter pins) from collapsing and also protect the threads just incase you miss the top.

            Keep in mind you need to totally remove the arm from the car before removing the balljoint from the arm.

            Comment

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