wheel bearing

[alekp92jdm]

So my front wheel bearings are starting to go out and I had a few questions....

1. What are some good bearings to buy for a good price...are Moog good?

2. And does anyone have a diy for this. Iv searched and nothing came up

[H311RA151N]

So my front wheel bearings are starting to go out and I had a few questions....

1. What are some good bearings to buy for a good price...are Moog good?

2. And does anyone have a diy for this. Iv searched and nothing came up

I have replaced wheel bearings many times. I can do it now in less than half an hour a side.

Go with Timken’s. I used Precisions once and had to replace them again in under 2000 miles. Not fun.

[FAK_LAF]

If you are doing it yourself, I would suggest buying the entire hub assembly. IMO going with the hub assembly was worth bypassing the hassle of pounding the old bearing out and pressing the new one in. I think I got mine from www.*********.com. I have had mine on for about 9 months now and no problems yet. Removal and installation was very easy after separating the lower ball joint to get the knuckle off. That always seems to be a bitch.

[Leung]

I have replaced wheel bearings many times. I can do it now in less than half an hour a side.

Go with Timken’s. I used Precisions once and had to replace them again in under 2000 miles. Not fun.

yeah the store i work at sells Precisions also.. i'm always picking them up as a defect return; rarely ever pick up Timken bearings. Now what i have noticed is that there is a big price difference, like 50% difference, between the Korean made ones and US made Timken bearings. I'll have to go to a competitor's to see if that is true too for them also.

[H311RA151N]

If you are doing it yourself, I would suggest buying the entire hub assembly. IMO going with the hub assembly was worth bypassing the hassle of pounding the old bearing out and pressing the new one in. I think I got mine from www.*********.com. I have had mine on for about 9 months now and no problems yet. Removal and installation was very easy after separating the lower ball joint to get the knuckle off. That always seems to be a bitch.

The "hub assembly" at AutoZone, Oreillys, Bumper to Bumper and Advanced are just the hub and wheel studs. Its shows the bearing in the picture on their web sites but it doesn’t come with it. And plus who wants to use cheap auto parts store bearings. Use Timken’s or OEM Honda. And the bearing is $40 for a Timken. The hub is over $100! Why buy the hub when you don’t need it? Just do the work and save a hundred bucks. Like I said, I can do it in under half an hour, that’s take the knuckle out, get the bearing separated away from the hub, press the new hub onto the bearing, and put the knuckle back into the car.

When you get the bearing away from the hub 9 times out of 10 the inside inner race is stuck on the hub. Get a grinder and cut the inner race at an angle, careful not to cut into the hub, but if you do it’s not the end of the world. Then take a chisel and a hammer to the groove you just made and crack the inner race. Once you do that it’ll slide right off.

yeah the store i work at sells Precisions also.. i'm always picking them up as a defect return; rarely ever pick up Timken bearings. Now what i have noticed is that there is a big price difference, like 50% difference, between the Korean made ones and US made Timken bearings. I'll have to go to a competitor's to see if that is true too for them also.

When I returned my Precisions they were missing half the ball bearings and they were in pieces. I wasn’t too happy either.

I only buy Timken’s from Parts Geek. They have the shiny seal that says made in USA. I would buy from Rock Auto but there web site is hard to use and I want to see pics of what I’m buying.

The Timken’s I have in both my CBs are still going strong.

[FAK_LAF]

The "hub assembly" at AutoZone, Oreillys, Bumper to Bumper and Advanced are just the hub and wheel studs. Its shows the bearing in the picture on their web sites but it doesn’t come with it. And plus who wants to use cheap auto parts store bearings. Use Timken’s or OEM Honda. And the bearing is $40 for a Timken. The hub is over $100! Why buy the hub when you don’t need it? Just do the work and save a hundred bucks. Like I said, I can do it in under half an hour, that’s take the knuckle out, get the bearing separated away from the hub, press the new hub onto the bearing, and put the knuckle back into the car.

When you get the bearing away from the hub 9 times out of 10 the inside inner race is stuck on the hub. Get a grinder and cut the inner race at an angle, careful not to cut into the hub, but if you do it’s not the end of the world. Then take a chisel and a hammer to the groove you just made and crack the inner race. Once you do that it’ll slide right off.


When I returned my Precisions they were missing half the ball bearings and they were in pieces. I wasn’t too happy either.

I only buy Timken’s from Parts Geek. They have the shiny seal that says made in USA. I would buy from Rock Auto but there web site is hard to use and I want to see pics of what I’m buying.

The Timken’s I have in both my CBs are still going strong.

Meh... Mine came with the bearing, hub and all and was not even close to 100 dollars. Quality looked/felt good and has been running strong daily driven for 9 months, even with negative camber and low offset wheels. Anyways, just another option to look into if you don't have a press and don't feel like hammering and chissling on your hub.

[H311RA151N]

Meh... Mine came with the bearing, hub and all and was not even close to 100 dollars. Quality looked/felt good and has been running strong daily driven for 9 months, even with negative camber and low offset wheels. Anyways, just another option to look into if you don't have a press and don't feel like hammering and chissling on your hub.

You must be talking about the rear. On the front you cant get a quality bearing and hub for under $100.

To the OP just do it right and get a good quality bearing. You can have a machine shop press it for you. Dont take a chance on doing it twice.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=192745

[alekp92jdm]

Damn i dont have accsess to an angle grinder and that sounds like a lot of work...maybe I'll see if I can get it dome at my work for cheep

[H311RA151N]

Damn i dont have accsess to an angle grinder and that sounds like a lot of work...maybe I'll see if I can get it dome at my work for cheep

Its not that much work. But if you dont have the tools you simply dont have the tools.

A wheel bearing is just not something thats fun to drive with when they go bad. And cheap wheel bearings are prone to going bad.

[CyborgGT]

Getting the hubs off is easy, and I went the machine-shop route of handling the bearings. I think they charged me $40 to press out the old ones and put my new Timkens on (went to Brakes Plus for this quick little job and they turned me away; "no drop-ins"... dick holes). It's the discs on our cars that suck ass; I ended up having to drill the heads off three bolts because they were so seized... it was a good thing I was replacing the discs at the same time since the threaded bolt shafts were still stuck in the old rotors. A rotor-over-hub conversion is so worth it.

[H311RA151N]

Agreed. ROH is the way to go.

[Stoner51]

I agree ROH is easier. But if you can change a wheel bearing in 30 min per side it would only take you about 15 to change the rotors.
My rotors can off easier than I thought which is why I didn't go ROH.

But if I had to do the wheel bearings again I would buy the kit or take it off and take it to someone to change. That was the biggest pain in my ass i have done to my car. Prob bc I was worried I would go too deep with the grinder notch the spindle and be screwed.

Steve

[bassrock234]

I bought mine from AM auto parts. They came with new hubs with new bearings already installed for a total of $99.45. Nice and easy install, but I've only driven on them for maybe a month so longevity is still questionable. They looked and felt like nice quality stuff though.

[H311RA151N]

I agree ROH is easier. But if you can change a wheel bearing in 30 min per side it would only take you about 15 to change the rotors.
My rotors can off easier than I thought which is why I didn't go ROH.

But if I had to do the wheel bearings again I would buy the kit or take it off and take it to someone to change. That was the biggest pain in my ass i have done to my car. Prob bc I was worried I would go too deep with the grinder notch the spindle and be screwed.

Steve

The very first time is always a bitch. Sometimes I will spend 2-3 hours a side the very first time. But before I put them back together I wash everything in the parts wash and grease it all. That’s how I can get it done in 30 mins a side. Take your time the first go around then every time after that its cake.

Of course it’s best not to cut into the spindle when you’re getting the inside inner race off the hub. But if it happens it won’t hurt anything. I’ve nicked a few.

IMO ROH is still better than our captive rotors. Even with how easy mine are to get off being all clean and greased. ROH is even easier to work on.

I bought mine from AM auto parts. They came with new hubs with new bearings already installed for a total of $99.45. Nice and easy install, but I've only driven on them for maybe a month so longevity is still questionable. They looked and felt like nice quality stuff though.

I’m sure there are good quality wheel bearings out there with the hub for a good price. But you can get a Timken for $40 and do just a little extra work and have a bearing you know you can trust for years with no question.

But most people will always go for what’s easier. And when people are elbow deep in the front end they normally opt for the easiest and quickest way to get it back together.

[jdmfreak]

Funny thing is just did this Monday. Took me about an hour and a half. Had to ask an older tech in my shop how to do it. Not fun and not looking forward to doing the other side. Think I'm just going to buy the hub assembly with the studs this time around from Honda since I work at the dealer and get a sweet discount. Still not cheap though.