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need help with upper control ball joints

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    #16
    Everyone on here saying pressing out and in new front upper ball joints is a safety risk likely has never done it themselves. It freakin taps out with a hammer and taps back in with a hammer. It's not just thin sheet metal, it's very substantial with a reenforcing ring around it. It doesn't require much force and if the arm is off the car I can have it replaced in 5 minutes EASILY.

    STOP TELLING PEOPLE THEY HAVE TO GET BRAND NEW ARMS TO SAFELY CHANGE THE FRONT UPPER BALL JOINT. YOU are spreading MISINFORMATION and causing them to pay for parts they don't need.

    Honda sells all sorts of components as a "package deal only". Deducting that a method is unsafe simply because Honda doesn't offer the specific part is ridiculous and illogical. Honda could care less about safety, they meet regulations to avoid fines, it is a proven fact by Ford that it's alot cheaper to pay off families of dead people than issue or research a major recall. Point is, Honda is in the business of making money, evidently they can't make a profit replacing just the ball joint so the only offer it as a package.

    Get an SPC front upper adjustable ball joint kit from Summit racing, replace it yourself and don't worry about it anymore. My roads around here are terrible with the right front constantly getting banged around from bumps on the side of the road. 3 years and zero play or movement in my SPC kit.

    BTW: the stiffest springs in the world won't induce any significant excess pressure on the upper ball joint, grippier tires and agressive turning will but not stiff springs. Other components ARE impacted significantly by stiff springs (upper%lower strut mount, LCA bushing, lower ball joint).
    My Member's Ride Thread

    Bisimoto header before & after dyno

    1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

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      #17
      Originally posted by 19dabeast85 View Post
      Everyone on here saying pressing out and in new front upper ball joints is a safety risk likely has never done it themselves. It freakin taps out with a hammer and taps back in with a hammer.
      Tap my ass! ITs more like pound the shit out of it. If it tapped out that easy then it would of fell out prematurely
      What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

      You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

      Retro!

      Hater

      I love nooBs...They make me look good

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        #18
        Originally posted by accordztech View Post
        Tap my ass! ITs more like pound the shit out of it. If it tapped out that easy then it would of fell out prematurely
        Sorry but not my experience with my cb7 nor wife's CRV, both came out easily.
        My Member's Ride Thread

        Bisimoto header before & after dyno

        1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

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          #19
          I agree that "tapping" is not what I had to do. It popped when my press started doing its thing and pushed out the ball joint. But it DID do it.


          I dont think the integrity of the ball joint could be kept 100% in tact if you beat it in rather then using a press. That being said, I suppose I have always used my press and NEVER beat in a ball joint. Ive beat plenty of them out-never in though.


          Either way, with the right tools its very doable. Safely, well Im not an engineer. If theres a real reason why pressing out the joint compromises the arms integrity, then fuck I'll but new ones. But, until that arguement is made I have to believe that these ball joints, are just like any other ball joint-REPLACEABLE.
          Originally posted by wed3k
          im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

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            #20
            Originally posted by toycar View Post
            I agree that "tapping" is not what I had to do. It popped when my press started doing its thing and pushed out the ball joint. But it DID do it.


            I dont think the integrity of the ball joint could be kept 100% in tact if you beat it in rather then using a press. That being said, I suppose I have always used my press and NEVER beat in a ball joint. Ive beat plenty of them out-never in though.


            Either way, with the right tools its very doable. Safely, well Im not an engineer. If theres a real reason why pressing out the joint compromises the arms integrity, then fuck I'll but new ones. But, until that arguement is made I have to believe that these ball joints, are just like any other ball joint-REPLACEABLE.
            My definition of easy is 3-4 solid hits with a regular 16oz. construction hammer. My cb7 and wife's crv popped out with just those few taps. If I needed a sledge hammer and 30-40 hits I would not consider it "tapping" but a few hits with a regular hammer is "tapping" IMO.

            The adjustable ball joint essentially press themselves in the first time you tighten them down, not really much hammering in.

            Very doable, very safe. I challenge anyone to take a sledge hammer and beat the crap out of the end of the front upper arm, my bet says you could x-ray it and see no cracks. Suspension components are VERY tough, Honda OEM arms are GREAT quality steel.
            My Member's Ride Thread

            Bisimoto header before & after dyno

            1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

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              #21
              Originally posted by vjekoaccordRT View Post
              Moog is not an option, i dont have it here.
              The price is for complete upper arm with ball joint and i had OEM Honda, they have last 5month.
              And my upper arm don't hitting inner fender, it's not that much low.
              I just need a realy good manufacturer of upper arms. Execept Moog, i can't buy that here. Any idea?

              I could mail you some moog balljoints, they sell them at autozone.

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                #22
                lol i love this thread, imformative yet funny at the same time!


                Bought from Darkcloud

                http://wheelflip.com/r/DrAkE

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by 19dabeast85 View Post
                  My definition of easy is 3-4 solid hits with a regular 16oz. construction hammer. My cb7 and wife's crv popped out with just those few taps. If I needed a sledge hammer and 30-40 hits I would not consider it "tapping" but a few hits with a regular hammer is "tapping" IMO.

                  The adjustable ball joint essentially press themselves in the first time you tighten them down, not really much hammering in.

                  Very doable, very safe. I challenge anyone to take a sledge hammer and beat the crap out of the end of the front upper arm, my bet says you could x-ray it and see no cracks. Suspension components are VERY tough, Honda OEM arms are GREAT quality steel.
                  Agreed

                  My swap thread
                  Main relay proplems?--DIY

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                    #24
                    Here gooo
                    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180816

                    8 Accords so far:
                    '81 SE Sedan(1st Gen), '83 SE Sedan(2nd Gen), '89 SE Sedan(3rd Gen)
                    '89 DX Sedan(3rd Gen), '92 LX Coupe(4th Gen), '92 EX Wagon(4th Gen)
                    (3rd gen parts car) I'm currently Driving a '14 Accord Sport 9th Gen

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Cb_JoeyG View Post
                      I also did a diy on this http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=48011

                      My swap thread
                      Main relay proplems?--DIY

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