locked up rear drum?

[low97accord]

just picked up a 4th gen thats been sitting but the rear drum on one side seems to be locked up so the wheel wont move. are there any tricks to getting this fixed? not really in a hurry to go rear disc since im prob going to go 5 lug on this thing

[Tippey764]

Release the parking brake and try hitting it with a hammer a few times to make knock it loose

If worst comes to worst you will need to get some bolts and run them down the threaded holes on the face of the rotor. The bolts will go down and press against the hub and hopefully pop the drum off.

[low97accord]

bfh didnt work after much lube, took off the drum and here is where im at right now





put it back on. but shows some play (click for vid)




also that arm on the right hand side was STUCK. so i pushed it back (i guess thats what goes to the ebrake cable

i attemtped to adjust this



but it seems to just be spinning. im taking a break for now since its getting dark. but any suggestions would be great? i plan on finishing this tomm morning early and if its not fixable just going to get a whoel new spindle/knuckle whatever from the junkyard and swap over. thanks

[Flatline]

id just swap over a JY drum assembly. save some time. no point wasting time fiddling.....

[YK86]

If the wheel cylinder (the thing that was popped out) was out that far, I would bleed it after everything is back on. If the bleeder nipple breaks off, just buy a new wheel cylinder as they are cheap at around $5.

For the "play" you have, you are missing the retaining pins that hold the shoes up against the backing plate. It goes through a hole in the backing plate and through the hole in the middle of the shoe. It's part number 29 and 30 in the pic.




It should look like this when it's installed.



As for that shaft that is wedged between the shoes, that is the adjuster. Take it out and make sure the short side spins freely, and the threaded side is also easy to spin. Don't randomly spin it as it'll be too tight or too loose. The vid is kind of unclear but it seems to be too long and it even looks kind of bent (bowed, should be straight across).

What's supposed to happen is when the shoes are too far from making contact with the drum, the L shaped piece catches on the gear/cog on the shaft and spins it making the shaft longer and holding the shoe closer to the drum. So on a car with functional self adjusters, pumping the brakes is good enough to adjust it. But as they get older and parts wear out or seize, they no longer adjust even if the shoes need to be pushed out farther.

If anything, I'd buy a new brake hardware kit ($10-$15, includes parts for both sides including the retaining parts you need and new springs for the shoes) and adjuster kit ($10 per side, left and right are different).