Suspension overhaul

[toycar]

So Im about to start my suspension overhaul on my CD5. Ive been reading though that 90-97 Accord suspension parts are all interchangeable.


That being said, is there anything to stay away from? I was thinking about buying this kit;

http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.as...100&d=1717&p=1

but using it on the CD chassis. Also, are the parts here worth a shit? I have a ball joint press, and am not afraid to replace bushings. So, the original plan was to pull control arms(all of them) from the Junk yard, and powder coat/rebuild them with better then OEM ball joints and poly bushings.

Then swap on and viola!


I like the energy suspension master bushing kit, and its in my future regardless. So im thinking which would you use? I could buy the ball joints and press them in myself, and replace the shitty OEM used and abused bushings with the energy bushings.

The cost wouldnt be that different for me, but I could possibly buy better ball joints and I believe the energy bushings are better out of the box then the TASAUTO kit. But, my time is worth money you know. SO, if its quality then its something I want to consider. Pulling, painting, rebuilding upper/lower-front/rear control arms will take the better part of a day, if not two so buying something already put together is appealing to me as well.

However, alot of people on the forum rock TASAUTO parts, so can you guys give me some feedback?

And no, I wouldnt get the bright red bushings. Id get the graphite inpregnated black kit.


I suppose while Im on the topic, any feedback on Energy bushing kits? I see that Tas sells those as well, but the kit isnt as complete as the kit on Ebay. The Ebay kit is about the same money, but it comes with the hardware too not just the poly.

Thanks alot

-Justin

[PR CB7]

im using the cd5 UCA on my car because it had ingalls in them, they were kind of a pain to install, meaning they're kind of wider

also for the money you are going to spend on the TAS kit, you're better off getting rear cambers and energy suspension master
suspension is something i hate doing twice, so do it right the first time, go poly

[toycar]

suspension is something i hate doing twice, so do it right the first time, go poly

Thats kinda how I feel too. OEM rubber was good for over a decade. BUT, Ive read so much about crappy aftermarket rubber bushings failing 6 months in.


Plus, I could buy all the control arms for about $50 and work on them in my spare time while still DD'ing the car.

I also think powder coating them wrinkle black would look nice and help them last longer(if I bought used, junkyard arms).

Then theres the ball joint issue. I could use a top shelf ball joint, in the OEM arm and have the best of both worlds without any doubt of quality.



Still looking for feedback on the energy poly bushings, but Im feeling like its gonna be rebuilding an OEM set of arms. Anyone think otherwise?


BTW, powder coating is basically free for me. I have an oven, gun and more paint/supplies then I would ever need. The parts are small enough that I could prolly get them all done in two batches. My oven is about rim size with a little head room.


Any suggestions on beadblasting media for taking the original finish off the used arm?

Do you guys use greese fittings on your ball joints when you do work like this? I know the accord comes with sealed joints, but I am considering some fittings in the joints as a part of my rebuild process.

Any reason not to?

[nate'sCB7]

You actually have to replace the WHOLE control arm, Front and Rear.
Honda nor anybody else makes replacement BJs for Upper Front or Rear control arms.

[toycar]

You actually have to replace the WHOLE control arm, Front and Rear.
Honda nor anybody else makes replacement BJs for Upper Front or Rear control arms.

Yeah but they can be pressed out.

Believe it or not, its true. They are pressed in from square one. Im not trying to make it sound easy, its like pressing on a wrist pin.

heat the arm up with a hot torch, press out and viola! If you google it, you will find plenty of people doing so. Its worth pointing out that the ball joint hole is tapered and will only press in/out one way.


I have a ball joint press already, and have replaced dozens of ball joints throughout my life, so its not something Im all that worried about.


Most cars that come with a sealed ball joint claim that the joint itself is not replaceable, but it is. Call a machine shop next time you have to do this if your not comfortable doing it yourself and dont have the right tools. Its way cheaper then buying a new arm.

[toycar]

See heres a few threads talking about it;

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2241263

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2502276

http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...acement-34394/


I think what most people fail to realize is there is a retainer clip, I think its called a circa clip that holds the ball joint in.

Remove that clip, press that bitch out, and replace.

[toycar]

bump



Couple days later no input?

[sepulveda87]

im actually about to replace my lower ball joints as well, along with my tie rods, axles, and ucas. me and my father were thinking of the same thing about the lower ball joints. he told me with out the tool for the ball joint, its gonna be a bitch to take out and put the new one in...but ima read those threads that were posted in the topic.

[toycar]

im actually about to replace my lower ball joints as well, along with my tie rods, axles, and ucas. me and my father were thinking of the same thing about the lower ball joints. he told me with out the tool for the ball joint, its gonna be a bitch to take out and put the new one in...but ima read those threads that were posted in the topic.

It isnt possible to do it without the tool, well I dont think it is anyways. I have had to take the control arm a time or two to a machine shop as well to have it pressed in/out, but generally speaking all ball joints can be replaced.

I pulled apart an upper control arm, and I really dont understand why everyone says you cannot replace the ball joint. Theres adjustable ball joints available in the aftermarket, for upper control arms.

You just have to use a micrometer to measure the taper, and find the size of the ball joint.


Anywho, I ordered the energy bushing kit and will be using OEM control arms from the Junkyard to refinish rather then buying new with questionable parts.


Thanks for the help guys!!