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    adjustable ball joints

    I saw theese on ebay they are adjustable ball joints for the upper control arm and was wondering if anyone tried them and what were the results? are they safe??

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT...65%3A15|39%3A1
    My 92 accord


    #2
    those look like spc's...do NOT buy them UNLESS you get confirmation they ARE spc

    Usually...I would tell you do not buy suspension parts off ebay.

    Make sure that is TWO ball joints not one...as two from oreillauto.com is $206 WITH shipping...if that is 165+9.?? for one...rip off.
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      #3
      i have them. they look like SPC ball joints. they are a great mod.

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        #4
        spc's will have "SPC" etched into them. And spc's bolts are like half an inch thick...not quit but DAMN thick! VERY robust parts.
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          #5
          theese are spc and it is for 2 if you look closely it says spc on it i just want opinion on these because i was going to opt for tas auto audjustable ones but those ar 300+
          My 92 accord

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            #6
            the TAS include new A-Arms and bushings, which is why they cost so much.

            You will need new A-Arm bushings, that is, if yours are stock I guarantee they are shot.

            Get new A-Arms or bushings and those spc's...if you do that...hit me up, I have some tips for installing the spc's, it isn't as straight forward as you think. BUt it IS super super easy.
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              #7
              Originally posted by bcjammerx View Post
              the TAS include new A-Arms and bushings, which is why they cost so much.

              You will need new A-Arm bushings, that is, if yours are stock I guarantee they are shot.

              Get new A-Arms or bushings and those spc's...if you do that...hit me up, I have some tips for installing the spc's, it isn't as straight forward as you think. BUt it IS super super easy.
              I need to install my spcs also....pm me your tips please
              1993 Accord LX - Sold
              93 BMW 525it - SOLD
              92 Accord EX Sedan - SOLD
              2000 Accord Coupe - Traded-In
              2003 Accord V6 6spd Coupe - Sold
              2001 Honda Civic Ex - SOLD
              2013 Chevy Traverse LTZ - Kid hauler
              2003 Acura Tl 3.2 - Daily Commuter

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                #8
                eh I'll post 'em

                Basically the spc's are 3 pieces, two plates and the BJ

                The plates and the a-arm make a sandwhich...plates are the bread and the a-arm is the meat...the ball joint is your ass hole buddy who pokes his finger through your sandwhich...except in this case its actually a good thing

                The plates have a hole in them for the ball joints large bolt to slide through...this hole is "I" shaped and is what enables you to alter the camber. It should be facing the right way...

                < that is the a arm
                - is how that hole should face -<- like that...kinda...any hoo I don't know how to make it perfectly straight.

                the top plate just sits there...the bottom plate however you may have to press on...this is where I had problems. I only had to press one in, the other went in no problem.

                I used TAS autos a-arms from the restoration kit so I can't speak for other a-arms. There is a lip (pretty tall and thick) on the underside of the a-arm...(I should really make a diy)...and the lower plate fits around that lip...it has a lip cut into it jsut for it. However, one of mine didn't fit quit right, it kept getting cocked to the side.

                When all goes properly, the two sandwhich the a-arm...again how you insure you get the slot perfect so you adjust camber only I don't know...

                My "trick" isn't much of a trick so much as it is just a warning. The pass. side I had to press the lower plate on, if it doesn't sit flush you won't be able to torque the lock nut properly.

                My drivers side one, the lower plate was crooked, I figured the 120 foot pounds would do the trick, it worked on the pass side, of course it sat flush. My mistake really. Any way I tightened the lock nut first by hand...a MUST...then torqued with my torque wrench. It went...went...went...was tight of course...and went...then...turner REALLY easy...shit.

                Because it was crooked it put extra stress on one side of the bolt, and it stripped.

                I ordered a replacement, even IT went on crooked, so I used the ball joint press I had...it wouldn't go on straight. Kept binding. SO I decided to shave some metal off with my dremmel...little by little. Finally I got it to fit on the a-arm flush.

                It's dummy proof really aside from that one fluke...which of course I experience My lost $100 your gain

                point being...have a press handy, make sure the bottom plate goes down flush. Tighten the lock nut by hand as many turns as possible...do not expect the torquing of it to squeeze the plates together flush...which was my error...of course it DID work on my pass. side...just not the drivers side. Make them flush BEFORE you tighten it.

                It really isn't a hard mod...just the plate issue I ran into.
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                  #9
                  my bushings are not stock i upgraded to energy suspension master set
                  My 92 accord

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                    #10
                    let me know how they work

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