Koni Yellows

[Haccord21]

Ok so im still getting these things figured out. And so far i love them. But everyone knows that there 5 way adjustable dampening. correct? So i enjoy taking corners and dont mind a little extra bounce. So i wanted to adjust them to the stiffest or firmest. I read on koni.com it said counter clockwise for the stiffer. So i went out and i did that. And when i did the knob would freely spin. It didnt click at all. So now im kinda freakin out that there messed up unless this isnt a problem (which i think it is) There was barely any resistance when i tried turning them. Any suggestions? thanks again.

[mndude07]

Ok so im still getting these things figured out. And so far i love them. But everyone knows that there 5 way adjustable dampening. correct? So i enjoy taking corners and dont mind a little extra bounce. So i wanted to adjust them to the stiffest or firmest. I read on koni.com it said counter clockwise for the stiffer. So i went out and i did that. And when i did the knob would freely spin. It didnt click at all. So now im kinda freakin out that there messed up unless this isnt a problem (which i think it is) There was barely any resistance when i tried turning them. Any suggestions? thanks again.

The koni yellows don't click when you turn them like the KYB AGX's do. Most people generally measure the stiffness based on half-turns.

They should have came with a little white knob to put on top so you don't get mixed up on which way is firm and which is soft.

Try putting the rears at exactly half and the fronts at about one full turn from full soft. Thats usually a good setup for DD-ing, and I think thats how mine are right now. Hope this helps.

[Haccord21]

Ha I absolutely knew I would get a reply from you. Ha but thanks man. I did two full turns on both fronts and a full turn on the rear. Would it quit spinning if I kept going counter clockwise? Cause if I get the chance for auto x ille want it the stiffest that it could be

[mndude07]

Ha I absolutely knew I would get a reply from you. Ha but thanks man. I did two full turns on both fronts and a full turn on the rear. Would it quit spinning if I kept going counter clockwise? Cause if I get the chance for auto x ille want it the stiffest that it could be

They'll quit spinning if you keep going either direction long enough. I think theres 2.5 or 3.5 turns between full soft and full stiff. Also, CB's have understeer, so you will probably feel better handling if you make the rear stiffer than the front. Its the same concept behind a huge rear sway bar and not as large of a front one.

[Haccord21]

Ha I absolutely knew I would get a reply from you. Ha but thanks man. I did two full turns on both fronts and a full turn on the rear. Would it quit spinning if I kept going counter clockwise? Cause if I get the chance for auto x ille want it the stiffest that it could be

[mndude07]

[cavemancb7]

had some on my old cd8, ran full stiff in rear and one turn from stiff in front at autox...

of course i also had a ST rear sway bar, custom spring rates, and r compound tires

[Haccord21]

Ha my bad. I'm on my phone and it didn't show that I replied. Lol thanks for the help guys. I love the koni yellows just thought I messed them up. Next upgrades are sway bars, camber kit, and some new tires.

[ilovemycb7]

Watch having the rear too stiff. I did this with my TEIN coilovers and got mad oversteer. So watch out.

[94Si]

stiff in front about 3/4 turn rear, sit on pro kit ride very nice

[Haccord21]

I'm gonna test out each adjustment. See which will be best for my driving. Currently I'm at two full turns front and rear. Doesn't feel too bad. I have anotther question what's the difference between oversteer and under steer. I always get them confused.

[johnl]

My experience is that KYDs (Koni Yellow Dampers) give more steering and handling response at harder settings, which is good, but (especially on less than perfectly smooth roads) can cause the springs to 'pump down', causing intermittent strange handling.

'Pumping down' occurs when the rebound rate is so stiff that the compressed spring is not strong enough quickly re-extend the compressed damper rod after hitting a bump. So, the wheel hits a bump and compresses the coilover (keeping in mind that the stock suspension uses 'coilovers', i.e. a 'spring over damper'). The wheel then hits another bump and compresses the coilover further, but it hasn't yet recovered from hitting the first bump, so ride height at that corner lessens more than it should.

This can be so bad that over a series of bumps / undulations the suspension can compress right down onto the bumpstop, even if no large bump has been encountered. The effect becomes similar to a four legged table that sometimes has one leg shorter than usual, it messes up the both the static (non cornering) and dynamic distribution of weight, which has erratic affects on understeer and oversteer.

The suspension doesn't need to pump down all the way to the bump stops for this affect to be a significant problem. I had this occuring with my CB7 at stiffer Koni settings (with stock springs). I fixed this initially by softening the dampers to 1 turn from full soft, now I'm at 1/2 turn.

I wouldn't now use more than 1 turn from full soft when using the stock springs. Stiffer than stock springs should be strong enough to handle (to need) a somewhat stiffer rebound damping, but unless the springs are very stiff indeed I suspect full stiff on the Konis might still be too stiff.

Another issue with an overly high rebound setting, it makes the bump setting feel (subjectively) somewhat softer.

Note that (according to what I was told by someone at the Australian Koni distributors) if you turn the adjuster all the way to full stiff, the rebound valve can all but close off, making the damper much too stiff even for quite extreme spring rates. 'Full stiff' should be interpreted as meaning; turn all the way to full stiff and then back off just a little bit (just enough that you feel the adjuster move).

[johnl]

I have anotther question what's the difference between oversteer and under steer. I always get them confused.

Looking at extreme examples; understeer is what is occuring when you can see what you are about to crash into, and oversteer is when you can't...

You're American, so this should help:

Undertseer = tight
Oversteer = loose

[mndude07]

If you are taking a corner at a high speed, understeer is the tendency of the car to want to drift to the outside of the track.

Oversteer is the tendency for the front end to break loose and dive towards the inside of the track.

Front wheel drive cars, like the cb7, inherently have understeer. Every cb7 tuner's goal is to eliminate as much of it as possible to try to give the car neutral handling, which is neither under or oversteer.

Hopefully that makes sense.

[Haccord21]

Alright thanks for all the info.. the more the better. I understand what you guys are saying. Igoing to adjust the rear half away from full stiff and a full spin on the front. But I just did that and the passenger side rear won't quit spinning. Anyone to fix this. What setting would this set me at?