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    Tuning diaries...

    post up what you need to do to your chassis, not so much upgrades but tweaks and tuning.

    after this weekend, the project car will need:
    -proportioning valve (too much front bite under braking)
    -larger rear sway bar (the car needs to rotate more when entering into turns, right now i just push straight until i brake)
    -i havent got my tire pressure set well, right now it is at 38/34 psi
    I <3 G60.

    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

    #2
    What type of brakes do you have in rear (i.e. drum or disc)?
    HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

    Comment


      #3
      Will post results this weekend with my new setup

      Koni Yellows w/ spss3 revalve
      850f no swaybar
      700r 22mm swaybar

      Still a few more things left to do but most of the major stuff is finished. After going through several different spring rates and bars, this setup should be pretty good and deal with weaknesses the others had...hopefully.
      For Sale:
      itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
      tr injen sri $80 + shipping

      (2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by HondaFan81
        What type of brakes do you have in rear (i.e. drum or disc)?
        discs, brembo blanks and aem pads.
        I <3 G60.

        0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

        Comment


          #5
          Here's what I've done so far in order to get rid of understeer..

          - Megan Racing coilovers, 14kg/mm front, 8kg/mm rear, 27/36 clicks front, 20/36 clicks rear. (Might stiffen these up once I get my new set of summer tires mounted for fine tuning)
          - Stock FSB, 22mm RSB
          - 3-point strut bar (front), 4-point strut bar (rear), and bunch of other bars not worth mentioning because they don't really do anything
          - -3.0 camber front, -1.0 rear
          - 16x8" (+40) all around
          - 8mm spacers up front (Might get thicker, depending on fender clearance)
          - 195/50/16 all around (for now, will rock 215/45/16 up front in the near future)
          - 40psi front, 32psi rear (will fine-tune along with the damper kit later on)

          Misc
          - Relocate battery to trunk
          - Strip off everything unnecessary under the hood to save a little bit of weight

          I was going to get front camber kit to push the front tires out a bit (for aesthetic purpose), but decided not to because I just love how much the front tires grip around corners with the -3.0 camber! With my setup listed above, even with my 205/60/15 winter tires on 15x6.5" wheels, on dry roads I have yet to experience understeer around corners ever since I upgraded to MR coilover damper kit..On wet roads, yes, but not on dry. Off the line launch is slightly compromised with the -3.0 camber up front when the road isn't nice and leveled, but I've gotten used to it. And plus my car is not made for straight lines anyways But I think I'd have to re-tune everything once I get 215/45/16 up front, because that might just change everything..Should be fun though

          And for brakes
          - 1" BMC, EX-R brake booster, 40/40 prop valve
          - SiR-T calipers, 11.2" slotted/drilled rotors with Endless pads (Front)
          - Stock rotors and pads (rear)

          After I did the rear disc conversion, along with the BMC, prop valve, SS brake lines, even with the stock rotors and pads on the rear I can feel that the front brakes are not doing as much work as they used to, and that I actually have something stopping the car in the back! Less nose dive for sure, braking feels much more balanced. And when I do have to brake during cornering (driving error usually), I have less chance of understeer due to front brakes doing all the work. I usually don't brake around corners though, only when I do it wrong because I'm not familiar with the road..I always brake and downshift before I enter the corner for smooth cornering, and just to be safer

          Hope that helps Wes Good luck with your tuning!

          Ronald
          Last edited by Ronald_Type-R; 05-21-2008, 04:22 AM.

          |~~~~~~~~~~~~- Project CL1 Euro-R continues -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|

          Comment


            #6
            lol, this wasnt suppose to be geared towards me. just an informative thread for everyone in this community. but yes, knowing the trackk is 90% of the battle. i was only allowed 3 continous laps for my auto-x session and being my first time at it, and first time racing the project cb7. there's still much to explore.
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by wed3k
              lol, this wasnt suppose to be geared towards me. just an informative thread for everyone in this community. but yes, knowing the trackk is 90% of the battle. i was only allowed 3 continous laps for my auto-x session and being my first time at it, and first time racing the project cb7. there's still much to explore.
              If it was your first session, corner entry understeer is probably mostly driver induced rather than the car....
              For Sale:
              itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
              tr injen sri $80 + shipping

              (2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by azian21485
                Will post results this weekend with my new setup

                Koni Yellows w/ spss3 revalve
                850f no swaybar
                700r 22mm swaybar

                Still a few more things left to do but most of the major stuff is finished. After going through several different spring rates and bars, this setup should be pretty good and deal with weaknesses the others had...hopefully.
                Update as promised:

                Whole setup is REALLY nice. Rotates beautifully! I haven't driven the car in a while and the back end kept stepping out my first few runs. Good thing I didn't bring it straight to the track =) I forgot the videocam so no in car runs.

                Dunlop Direzza Z1 are great tires. Never got greasy in 75 degree weather. Brought the tire wetter but never needed to use it. The only thing left to figure out is optimum tire pressures but I need a freaking pyrometer.
                For Sale:
                itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
                tr injen sri $80 + shipping

                (2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US

                Comment

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