h22/h23 frankenstien, oil squirters

[KeeleDesign]

i have searched and searched,, but no answer..

i have a h23 and a h22 sitting out back,, the h23 head is bad.. can i somehow make the oilsquirters work with the h23 crank, i am doing a frankenstien, and wanna get all my thoughts right before teardown.... i know this setup is suppose to be bad for throwing bearings,, but i feel if i could make the oil squirters work it will be alot safer. also i do not want low compression, whitch pistons would you recomend on the h23 rods.. this will have the h22 head btw..

[Jarrett]

It's always been my opinion that the oil squirters will drastically reduce your oil pressure compare to a similar block without. Personally I wouldn't run them just so I could have a little more peace of mind about the main bearings getting sufficient pressure. Honda didn't feel the need to put them in the H23 from the factory so I think I'd go with that. You're not going to be reaching engine speeds that warrant oil squirters anyways.

As for what piston to use, you could use a H22 piston but you'll come out of the bore .023" so I'd definitely run a thicker headgasket. With a factory JDM piston you'll be right about 10.8:1 and with a Type S piston you'll be closer to 11.8:1(both values are assuming a .034" headgasket is used to clear piston height).

[KeeleDesign]

so my mahle gold series pistons 11:5 :1 would work with the h23 crank and rods in my h22 block....and not hit the head, especially if i got a thicker gasket...?

also but won't it still reach 8,000 rpms, and i still needsome cooling power to be squirted on the rods and such..?

[KeeleDesign]

no ideas anyone.. help me..

[rickyduckworth]

if you're running an h23a1 block, you should drive it like one or it will have a much shorter life. the h23a (dohc vtec motor from the JDM 5th gen wagon) has them.

they're more for cooling than lubrication though. there are other ways to dissipate heat, but the best one is to keep the RPM down and not make that excessive heat to start with. there are more horror stories about machined blocks cracking thanks to poor oil squirter installation than there are about blocks melting.

you should just think of a frankenstein as a nicer h23a1, not an h22a with more displacement.

[peego]

(Depends on your budget)

Personal I would cryo-treat my h23 crank and micro-polish it and cryo-treat the rods too. Plus, you can used the gsr arp rod studs from 94-01 gsr (9mm) w/your h23 rods....
Also, you can get your h23 rods and crank treat by this company.. their prices are pretty cheap..
http://cryopro.com/engine/index.html
check this link out H23 VTEC

[Ghetto_CB7]

Not an h22

A friend and I had this swap in an 93 prelude and it ended up lasting about 4 months before we spun a bearing. You CANNOT drive it like an h22! To be honest with you the gain wasn't even that noticeable and yes we had the oil squirter's in there. Part of the problem might have been the fact that my friend drove it like an idiot and shifted above 8K way more then he should have but I agree with what was said above. As for the oil squirter's i don't know if they helped. Maybe without them it would have lasted 5 months.

[rickyduckworth]

(Depends on your budget)

Personal I would cryo-treat my h23 crank and micro-polish it and cryo-treat the rods too. Plus, you can used the gsr arp rod studs from 94-01 gsr (9mm) w/your h23 rods....
Also, you can get your h23 rods and crank treat by this company.. their prices are pretty cheap..
http://cryopro.com/engine/index.html
check this link out H23 VTEC

since an h22a can be had for somewhere in the $1200 range, what would be the point? i have yet to see any real reason to do this combo. there is no upside like with the ls/vtec.

there is a reason this swap combo never really caught on like others.

[peego]

since an h22a can be had for somewhere in the $1200 range, what would be the point?

your above statement is true. But as for I, its a personal choice to build a jdm h23/h23 vtec... To, others its a waste of time and money... "To each his own"

[KeeleDesign]

more displacement is better for lower rpm's correct,, basically you get your power faster.. and for someone who is like me and want to feel the torque, as compared to the h22 that to me doesn't have any, compared to me f22.
i just am not happy with the h22 as is.. it's fast, but i want it to feel fast, without nitrous or forced induction

[bjaccord]

if you're running an h23a1 block, you should drive it like one or it will have a much shorter life. the h23a (dohc vtec motor from the JDM 5th gen wagon) has them.

they're more for cooling than lubrication though. there are other ways to dissipate heat, but the best one is to keep the RPM down and not make that excessive heat to start with. there are more horror stories about machined blocks cracking thanks to poor oil squirter installation than there are about blocks melting.

you should just think of a frankenstein as a nicer h23a1, not an h22a with more displacement.

Can you go into more detail on the squirters and the installation?

Just curious as I just finished assembly on my new motor.

[shadetreecustom]

the h22 and the h23 share the same block theres is no difference exactly the same the diff in the motor is srtoke and compression ratio as far as the short block goes and the 23 doesnt come with squirters............do what you want to with it drive it like you want your the one paying for it but oersonally i wouldnt twist above 7200 rpm just my 2 cents

[rickyduckworth]

your above statement is true. But as for I, its a personal choice to build a jdm h23/h23 vtec... To, others its a waste of time and money... "To each his own"

i spent $4000 on an '85 merkur xr4ti and getting it to run 12's while driving it daily and also retaining (or achieving) reliability. the older i get, the lazier and more frugal i get......probably out of necessity though

[rickyduckworth]

Can you go into more detail on the squirters and the installation?

Just curious as I just finished assembly on my new motor.

well the problems i was talking about was how they got the squirters in there. sometimes, the sleeves would crack, sometimes the squirters would come out, sometimes there was interference with the piston itself.

[bjaccord]

Gotcha, so with any common sense at all anyone could install them.

I thought there was some sort of secret to them or something.

Only thing I checked was that there was nothing plugging the squirter assembly, and that the pistons and rods had plenty of clearance.