Dyno tuning

[HondaFan81]

SETUP:

11:1 Comp. ratio on F22A1 engine, 272 Delta camshaft regrind & valve springs, retainers, better flowing intake manifold & TB, AEM intake, Cyl. head P&P, 255 lph fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, MSD ignition, Apexi World sport exhaust, forged rods & 11:1 pistons, etc. Running on 93 octane gas if ya need that info

Let's say I finished assembly together all this. Now, how do I set it to run fairly decent for 500 miles (break-in), so that I can change the oil & filter and head off to the dyno and get it tuned? Here's my best prediction...add pleeheaze.

Stock ignition timing is 15 deg +/- 2 deg BTDC from what Haynes manual said.

[accordztech]

got a question on ur timming...the book allows for the configuration of a 15BTDC +/- 2 . im running at 13 BTDC...im not going for performance or ne thing...but any downside to running at 13?

[HondaFan81]

ur still in the tolerance for "stock specs" so I'd say you'd have to go above or below that (13 deg) to change something.

[HondaFan81]

so like in what I'll call "half-ass" tuning for the sake of having a running engine to get you where the hell you want...

adjust fuel pressure regulator, while looking at air/fuel ratio gauge to run on richer side.

then, being at TDC @ your crankshaft....you set your camshaft timing w/the adjustable cam gear you should have & adjust your ignition timing accordingly

then start up your engine, adjust ignition accordingly....then, adjust fuel at end...maybe keeping it slightly on richer side still?

someone clarify all this ....want to learn this shiiii...No, i'm not tuning it myself...just enough to run 500 miles break-in, take it to dyno for them to tune it.

[accordztech]

Originally posted by HondaFan81
ur still in the tolerance for "stock specs" so I'd say you'd have to go above or below that (13 deg) to change something.

any disadvantage in staying at 13? versus 14 or 15?

[2point6]

Assemble the engine and start it up for a while (20 min or so)... then take it to the dyno and run it. Do the firstt couple of pulls slowly and then get into the throttle a little bit more each time. Watch your fuel ratios, and add or subtract fuel accordingly. With in 3-4 pulls, you should be abole to take the RPM's all the way up. Remeber that this is a "controlled" environment, so any problems that develope here would certainly occure on the street as well. Make sure you have an oil pressure guage present and keep an eye on that. Any sudden loss of pressure will indicate an issue. Of course rings will not always seat in right away, but that means as time progresses the car will run even better. You might have to add fuel (slightly) to compensate for the ring seat, but it will be minimal.

[HondaFan81]

Thanks for info Scott, but I'm still convinced I have to atleast set the engine up after assembling it to run decent so I can break it in for 500 miles & I still have to drive 1.5 hrs to get to the dyno tuner.

This car is gonna be a daily driver & must be reliable....it'll just be increased in performance

BTW I am getting a cam gear, fuel psi gauge & regulator, air/fuel ratio gauge & oil psi gauge for tunability & criticals.

[2point6]

My main concern for you was fuel. Since you changed things quite a bit, obviously changes would need to be made. I see your point about living far from a dyno... I forget there isn't one on every street corner... LOL. Honestly you should be OK to drive the car normaly, Just do your planned oil changes at 500 miles and inspect for metal flakes.

[HondaFan81]

if you look at my member's ride section for the 90 EX, it'll have a blurp on my future plans.

Fuel system wise I am getting a 255 lph Walbro fuel pump (reg or high pressure?). B&M fuel pressure regulator & fuel gauge. I'm also going with larger injectors but I don't know what exactly yet. I think I heard a F22A1 engine has 240cc stock.

Also I want to get a P72 ECU and have Hondata hook it up. I need this ECU to operate the IAB I plan to have from a F22A6 on my intake manifold.

[HondaFan81]

High pressure or standard 255 lph fuel pump? I hear high pressure so far, but is it really needed? I've also heard our stock fuel pumps are capable of up to 80 psi...dunno how true that is.

[HondaFan81]

I'm just seeing what you have to say bout it Fizzbob...I know I've been buggin the hell outta you on it But I see ur point yo, and yea it's true...knowing me, I prolly or might tweak it even more down the road.

thx

[HondaFan81]

[HondaFan81]

just to throw in for update on what I plan to do regarding this:

1) Going with P06 ECU, since Hondata still supports this & it's SOHC, non-VTEC. However, for the IAB on my intake manifold setup, I'm connecting vacuum line.

2) After engine is assembled & dropped in with I/H/E setup & all, I'll set the ignition & camshaft/crank timing, adjust idle if need be. Run fuel on richer side. Use 5W-30 Valvoline mineral oil & Honda oil filter, then break in engine carefully for 500 miles.

3) I'll have a MSD box on my engine setup with rev limiter & will stick like a 3000 rpm plug when breakin it in for 500 miles.

4) Change oil after 500 miles, which will also be before taking it to dyno shop. Use Valvoline 10W-30 mineral oil w/Purolator PureONE oil filter. Set MSD box rev limiter at higher end. Drive moderately to dyno shop (ie. 1. hr 15 min away).