Lighter internals for H22 = more power?

[RDR Accord]

I have decided a plan for my engine build up. 89mm bore is what I want to do but would I be better getting the lightest internals and would this make more power? I have talked to DHracing and they tell me to use aluminum rods other people liek Apex motorsports say not to use aluminum. This will be a streetcar. TIA

[91accordwagon]

I refuse to provide you with any valid information... Ever.

[TypeG]

if you changed nothing about your internals but the weight, it wouldn't add more HP, but free up HP by decreasing rotating mass. later.

[gloryaccordy]

I have decided a plan for my engine build up. 89mm bore is what I want to do but would I be better getting the lightest internals and would this make more power? I have talked to DHracing and they tell me to use aluminum rods other people liek Apex motorsports say not to use aluminum. This will be a streetcar. TIA

Lighter internals= freer revving + less stress which = potential to rev higher, which means the potential for more power. 89mm pistons are kind of extreme though.

[RDR Accord]

I refuse to provide you with any valid information... Ever.

Then stop harassing me in my threads.

[RDR Accord]

Lighter internals= freer revving + less stress which = potential to rev higher, which means the potential for more power. 89mm pistons are kind of extreme though.

Thankyou for the info. I wasnt sure if the ability to rev higher was conducive to more power output. So it is safe to say a balance of strength of the part used vs the power output of the engine is needed? Does lighter internals decrease torque?
Why is 89mm extreme?

[gloryaccordy]

Thankyou for the info. I wasnt sure if the ability to rev higher was conducive to more power output. So it is safe to say a balance of strength of the part used vs the power output of the engine is needed? Does lighter internals decrease torque?
Why is 89mm extreme?

1. Well for N/A, strength isn't really an issue...the cylinder pressures aren't that high, you're making power by getting the most air you can to flow through the head. Aftermarket parts are almost always stronger than stock anyway...but I don't think I've ever heard of rods snapping on an N/A setup unless it was hydrolocked.

2. Lighter internals won't decrease torque; if anything it would increase it as the engine uses less of it's power to spin itself...

3. Resleeving an H22 isn't cheap, especially for the 100cc or so you'd be gaining...

[TypeG]

the ability for the motor to rev high has a lot to do with the valve springs as well.

not sure why apex told you not to use aluminum rods.....perhaps because aluminum fatigues overtime under stress. unlike chromolly. that's just a guess though, i'm no racer. later.

[gloryaccordy]

the ability for the motor to rev high has a lot to do with the valve springs as well.

not sure why apex told you not to use aluminum rods.....perhaps because aluminum fatigues overtime under stress. unlike chromolly. that's just a guess though, i'm no racer. later.

Yea aluminum is one of the softer metals; at least it is in my school's machine shop...the shit melts like butter.

[NAiL05]

As mentioned it will rev free'er and such. UNLESS you got with a more agressive dome top piston but doubt you want to do that witih gas issues if its gonna be DD.

[KillerCam282]

Yea aluminum is one of the softer metals; at least it is in my school's machine shop...the shit melts like butter.

Which is why Apex says do not use in a street car. Its the story of race parts: Most powerful never equals most reliable. If you have cash like that to go through a few rebuilds then fine. I don't care what anyone tells you. High compression engines do generate quite a bit of heat (its not as bad as an F/I engine). And if you plan on reaching that 8400rpm redline often, longevity WILL be an issue. Furthermore, 89mm pistons create more friction. Thus even more heat will be introduced to your combustion chamber. Make your choice based on your available resources.

[v4lu3s]

sleeving for NA does not require going and spending 800-1200 on darton or golden eagle sleeves. clevite, badger, la sleeves....basically slip in liners that are done as repair sleeves will work fine.
i personally would not bother with 89mm as that is pretty extreme and an "accident" can mean the block needs to be resleeved. You are only getting 100 cc more and a slgiht compression bump. Might as well go with 87.5 or 88 mm pistons and have a thicker sleeve for ore overboring on rebuilds.

Anyway, i recommend going with the lightest forged piston you can find, and probe rods. I am using Mahle pistons with probe rods and shaved off around 100-125 grams per rod and piston assembly, which has me rebalancing it all, but I should be safer revving it up since the stresses of rotating mass are being reduced.

[gloryaccordy]

^^^What that guy said...

Anyone know how much it would be to balance a rotating assembly?

[Accord R33]

.but I don't think I've ever heard of rods snapping on an N/A setup unless it was hydrolocked.

[Dv8]

I would recommend head work before you go all out.. Thats just me though.. cams.. valve springs.. p&p.. blah blah.. As for engine displacement.. if you bore any engine, you lose throttle/overall response from the engine, revvs slower.. I would personally leave the stock bore alone. Forged pistons/rods would be just fine and dandy (aluminum probably wouldnt be a good choice in the long run also), but if you want to sleeve it go ahead, I still recommend keeping stock bore is all. I would try to make this engine 'the ultimate response machine' if I were in your shoes, and to make it reliable. Dont aim for numbers, aim for balance. If you aim for numbers this car may end up just being a dyno queen. Thats just me though, seeing as we arent all rolling in dough here, longevity is a good idea. Just trying to help.