I have decided a plan for my engine build up. 89mm bore is what I want to do but would I be better getting the lightest internals and would this make more power? I have talked to DHracing and they tell me to use aluminum rods other people liek Apex motorsports say not to use aluminum. This will be a streetcar. TIA
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
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Lighter internals for H22 = more power?
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Originally posted by RDR AccordI have decided a plan for my engine build up. 89mm bore is what I want to do but would I be better getting the lightest internals and would this make more power? I have talked to DHracing and they tell me to use aluminum rods other people liek Apex motorsports say not to use aluminum. This will be a streetcar. TIA
Originally posted by lordojaim with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
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Originally posted by gloryaccordyLighter internals= freer revving + less stress which = potential to rev higher, which means the potential for more power. 89mm pistons are kind of extreme though.
Why is 89mm extreme?Rebecca, a.k.a "street racing bitch"
H22 owned me... Been happy ever since!
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Originally posted by RDR AccordThankyou for the info. I wasnt sure if the ability to rev higher was conducive to more power output. So it is safe to say a balance of strength of the part used vs the power output of the engine is needed? Does lighter internals decrease torque?
Why is 89mm extreme?
2. Lighter internals won't decrease torque; if anything it would increase it as the engine uses less of it's power to spin itself...
3. Resleeving an H22 isn't cheap, especially for the 100cc or so you'd be gaining...
Originally posted by lordojaim with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
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Originally posted by TypeGthe ability for the motor to rev high has a lot to do with the valve springs as well.
not sure why apex told you not to use aluminum rods.....perhaps because aluminum fatigues overtime under stress. unlike chromolly. that's just a guess though, i'm no racer. later.
Originally posted by lordojaim with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
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As mentioned it will rev free'er and such. UNLESS you got with a more agressive dome top piston but doubt you want to do that witih gas issues if its gonna be DD.
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Originally posted by gloryaccordyYea aluminum is one of the softer metals; at least it is in my school's machine shop...the shit melts like butter.
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sleeving for NA does not require going and spending 800-1200 on darton or golden eagle sleeves. clevite, badger, la sleeves....basically slip in liners that are done as repair sleeves will work fine.
i personally would not bother with 89mm as that is pretty extreme and an "accident" can mean the block needs to be resleeved. You are only getting 100 cc more and a slgiht compression bump. Might as well go with 87.5 or 88 mm pistons and have a thicker sleeve for ore overboring on rebuilds.
Anyway, i recommend going with the lightest forged piston you can find, and probe rods. I am using Mahle pistons with probe rods and shaved off around 100-125 grams per rod and piston assembly, which has me rebalancing it all, but I should be safer revving it up since the stresses of rotating mass are being reduced.
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Originally posted by gloryaccordy.but I don't think I've ever heard of rods snapping on an N/A setup unless it was hydrolocked.
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Originally posted by Accord R33
I would recommend head work before you go all out.. Thats just me though.. cams.. valve springs.. p&p.. blah blah.. As for engine displacement.. if you bore any engine, you lose throttle/overall response from the engine, revvs slower.. I would personally leave the stock bore alone. Forged pistons/rods would be just fine and dandy (aluminum probably wouldnt be a good choice in the long run also), but if you want to sleeve it go ahead, I still recommend keeping stock bore is all. I would try to make this engine 'the ultimate response machine' if I were in your shoes, and to make it reliable. Dont aim for numbers, aim for balance. If you aim for numbers this car may end up just being a dyno queen. Thats just me though, seeing as we arent all rolling in dough here, longevity is a good idea. Just trying to help.
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