F22a4 N/A build!!!!!

[accrdpower]

ok guys this is just a intro to what is happening....i recently found out i am burning like 3qts of oil every 3k miles....i figure if my engine has a few issues i want to buy a f22 block and go all out building it until my engine fails on me.
my plans are as follows, i am still trying to learn all i can about building a N/A f22 so bear with me. i also have not decided on the different companys (aka arais, je, eagle, darton or whatnot) this is meant to be a daily driver but still be able to put out some power.

new pistons ~12 compression
extra strength forged rods
resleeve 86mm (Darton M.I.D)
rings
hope to get 2.3-2.4L
knifeedge,polish, and balance f22 crankshaft
arp bolts/rods
dh-racing complete head package (P&P f22 head, racing valves .5mm oversized, titanium retainers, stage 2 cam, valve springs)
dh-racing tappered tb
dh-racing custom IM


that is the list so far and by no means am i stuck on any parts but the dh-racing setup.....however i know very little about the bottom end and i've done some searching here. i just want/need any advice as what to go for. any and all opinions would be a godsend thanks in advance u guys.

don't wry bout price because i have about a year or so to gather all the parts i need. if i need to i can put it all on a credit card lol

also does anyone know of REPUTABLE machine shop that could basically build the engine for me???? have it all put together when they do the resleeving and polishing and whatnot? again i have some time to think bout this and really do sommore research which i KNOW I HAVE TO DO. i'll keep everyone updated on the progress of this interesting build thanks for looking!

[Blaize]

you should talk to Hondafan, he is pretty much the expert hehe, but he will probably see your post and reply so be patient he knows a whole lot, i think hes got like 2 or 3 project builds.

[HondaFan81]

someone's been browsing my threads for ideas

my contact info is available in my profile if needed....

thanks for compliments.

[accrdpower]

yea well i searched through EVERY relevant N/A post since 2003 lol.....i have to say i found your posts to be the most helpful. you asked a whole crap load of questions well i think i am going to focus on the headwork for now. i am going to email dave hickman about the IM,TB and head package and see what he says about my ideas. o by the way does anyone know what a velocity stack upgrade for a IM is?

[gloryaccordy]

You can try and snag an H22 crank...it'll drop your compression and displacement but you can rev a lot higher...and it's prob. lighter+better balanced. Search for Scat crankshafts online, I think TopLine or something sells them brand new. Good luck.

[HondaFan81]

You can try and snag an H22 crank...it'll drop your compression and displacement but you can rev a lot higher...and it's prob. lighter+better balanced. Search for Scat crankshafts online, I think TopLine or something sells them brand new. Good luck.

Eh, simply dropping in an H22 crank is not better for performance. Your low-end torque will decrease and your static compression will be at 8.5 (I did the calculations) from the stock F22 8.8:1 Unless this modification is followed by a better flowing system to help get more air so you can achieve and take advantage of the top-end potential with a 90.7mm stroke H22 crank...then this mod is not worth it. Not to mention, if you're going N/A....you would want more, not less compression. Therefore, higher compression pistons should follow suit as well.

I am not saying a H22 crank swap in a F22ax block is not beneficial, I'm simply stating doing this in itself does nothing worthwhile from a performance standpoint (aka my standpoint , function over form...it's all me baby!!).

[gloryaccordy]

Well there's two schools of thought at work here. You can rev higher with the H22 crank, or you can have more torque with the F22 crank. I know lowering compression is detrimental to an all-motor setup...I should have worded it as such. But again, the H22 crank, from what I understand, is lighter, and because of the shortened stroke will be easy on the bearings (which love to spin right round like records when you start revvin')...which translates to less friction and vibration, and consequently more power.

If he were to go the route he's taking and mention to dh-racing that he was getting the H22 crank, I'm sure they could design a cam to let him take advantage of those additional revs up top. Plus he's already beefing up his valvetrain, so it could work...

Then again, getting the F22 crankshaft balanced and knife-edged would probably cost the same as an OEM H22 crankshaft, and you could prob. rev just as high with more torque everywhere. I guess the F22 is teh win...

I feel you on your build though Cisco...you should start a 'get Cisco to a dyno' fund...I would definitely donate; I can't wait...

[KillerCam282]

I am going to beat Cisco to this one. The F22 crank can rev as high as the rod bolts on the rods will allow it to. So, the H22 crank is just not needed...period.

[accrdpower]

ok so stick with the f22 crank and just polish it up a bit, knife edge and balance it? and i have been looking for arp bolt kits for the f22 and have found none. i mean this is the build where nothing i mean nothing will go overlooked and i will try not to have any "weak links" i am not going to cheap out on the bolts. but i still can't find a arp bolt kit for the damn f22 lol
hopefully dave can hook me up when he puts together the head. otherwise anyone know if they even make kits like that for us. i would hate to have to piece together the bolts. the less thinking involved the better haha.

now as to bottom end, that will be the last thing on my list. will it be ok to have the head,im, tb, and cam installed and then when i have the block ready just swap that out? or should i just wait until all parts are done and then install it. i really don;t wanna wait but if i must i must. o and i heard u can do darton M.I.D. 89mm sleeves!!!! is that true, i mean it says that is the max....i don't want to have any issues with a weak point here and there. i want this to be a daily driver that will last 150k miles without any major issues. or should i stick with the 85mm sleeves. i'm thinking 85mm to be on safe side

again i won't strart ordering parts until january bc i still need to get a Dc sports ceramic header and a random cat and upgrade once again to 2.5in piping (have 2"piping now)to finish off the i/h/e mods. i also wanna really make sure i do my research and do this the right way. and thank you guys with the info so far. i hope this build will inspire some to go the N/A route and maybe get some peoples minds a thinking in overdrive

[KillerCam282]

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/arp/
Cisco gave me this link a while ago for the Rod bolts. They are here on this page somewhere.

[accrdpower]

link doesn't work....but i did get onto their site and they didn't have anything for f22's maybe i am just blind

[KillerCam282]

Agh...He told me which ones were fully compatible. I will ask him about this again later. I believe anything H23 will work fine.

[HondaFan81]

link doesn't work....but i did get onto their site and they didn't have anything for f22's maybe i am just blind

I thought you followed my every move bro??

If you did you would have noticed on the first page of "white accord project" in my parts list...ARP head & main stud kits...you all know I'm building up F22's so

Anyways...to make it easier on your search...

www.nolimitmotorsport.com > sells ARP head & main stud kits for the H23 application, which is FULLY compatible with our F22ax engines. I have personally compared parts side by side (just make sure they send you the RIGHT kits)...I have an issue with them sending me the wrong head studs (but that's taken care of now).

[HondaFan81]

Agh...He told me which ones were fully compatible. I will ask him about this again later. I believe anything H23 will work fine.

You my friend are getting old and forgetting things.... next thing you know your girlfriend will be buying you some viagra

[HondaFan81]

ok so stick with the f22 crank and just polish it up a bit, knife edge and balance it? and i have been looking for arp bolt kits for the f22 and have found none. i mean this is the build where nothing i mean nothing will go overlooked and i will try not to have any "weak links" i am not going to cheap out on the bolts. but i still can't find a arp bolt kit for the damn f22 lol
hopefully dave can hook me up when he puts together the head. otherwise anyone know if they even make kits like that for us. i would hate to have to piece together the bolts. the less thinking involved the better haha.

now as to bottom end, that will be the last thing on my list. will it be ok to have the head,im, tb, and cam installed and then when i have the block ready just swap that out? or should i just wait until all parts are done and then install it. i really don;t wanna wait but if i must i must. o and i heard u can do darton M.I.D. 89mm sleeves!!!! is that true, i mean it says that is the max....i don't want to have any issues with a weak point here and there. i want this to be a daily driver that will last 150k miles without any major issues. or should i stick with the 85mm sleeves. i'm thinking 85mm to be on safe side

again i won't strart ordering parts until january bc i still need to get a Dc sports ceramic header and a random cat and upgrade once again to 2.5in piping (have 2"piping now)to finish off the i/h/e mods. i also wanna really make sure i do my research and do this the right way. and thank you guys with the info so far. i hope this build will inspire some to go the N/A route and maybe get some peoples minds a thinking in overdrive

1) already answered the ARP stud kit questions

2) I haven't heard anything on Darton mid 89 sleeves (it's possible it's out there). I was never interested in sleeving because it's ALOT of money and you will have to also buy custom made pistons to fit this bore most likely (unless you do a bore that another Honda motor uses). Unless you do a significant overbore, you are not looking at much gains for displacement. Even me doing a .040" (1.0mm) overbore only yields me 50cc more overall. Plus it will lower your compression some unless you raise it up elsewhere.

3) make sure you base your exhaust piping size on what plans you WILL carry through...