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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
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Cisco NA F22 non-VTEC SOHC Project - Full Street White
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It's been awhile ordering parts, but I'm lining up what is necessary for degreeing the camshaft this spring and getting back on the dyno.
Mugen Thermoswitch - Lower cooling fan temp. operation, help bring down engine coolant temps.
Omnipower Motor Oil & Tranny Magnetic Plugs - Isolate ferrous wear particles as this powertrain wears in.
Web Camshafts Degree Wheel & 14mm Positive Stop - Tools needed to degree camshaft. I already have access to the other necessary tools.
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Originally posted by 93F22A6I really want to see this project done, then see the hopefully insane number it'll lay down. This build is about the only thing that is going to keep me N/A.
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Weather was good, roads dry. Installed new copper plugs, as previous were fouled out from running rich. Changed oil again, this time added Torco ZEP additive with conventional Valvoline 5W-30. Got the motor started, ran it another 30 more miles, has about 400 miles on the motor now. It is finally home in a garage. Right before some more snow coming tomorrow. Fuel pressure fine, oil temp max 210 F, oil psi max 100-105 psi (normal for this motor). Coolant temp was at same place on dyno 195 F, runs hotter than a stock motor.
I'll install the Mugen cooling fan thermoswitch first, see how that helps. If that's not sufficient, then I'll go one step down on thermostat to 170 F. I believe I have 180 F now.Last edited by HondaFan81; 02-21-2009, 01:00 AM.
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Sounds good, have you degreed the cam yet? I couldn't remember if you have yet. Is there any reason your trying to get the temp down from 195? I know stock runing temp is lower but then again thats a stock motor.
86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
"The Turtle"
DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug
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It was implied, but of course I am waiting until I am fully tuned before making changes to the coolant system. In fact, I only drove the car recently to get out of the weather. I am eagerly awaiting spring before continuing this project, in which I will degree the camshaft. I have all the tools I need to do this now.
I did note when driving the car this time, that when cruising down highway at about 70-75 mph (3000-3500 RPMs), then the coolant temps were at about the 195 F mark. However, when I downshifted and raised the RPMS to like 4000-4500 RPMs, I noticed the ECT start going down. So temps may change after further tuning, we'll see.
After the full tune, I'll make changes accordingly to ECTs.
Drilling holes in the thermostat is not my style. I'd rather get one designed for a set temp, so that I can install a new one in future and not have to modify it again. I like simplicity. Not using non-resistor type plugs either.
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Originally posted by HondaFan81 View PostIt was implied, but of course I am waiting until I am fully tuned before making changes to the coolant system. In fact, I only drove the car recently to get out of the weather. I am eagerly awaiting spring before continuing this project, in which I will degree the camshaft. I have all the tools I need to do this now.
I did note when driving the car this time, that when cruising down highway at about 70-75 mph (3000-3500 RPMs), then the coolant temps were at about the 195 F mark. However, when I downshifted and raised the RPMS to like 4000-4500 RPMs, I noticed the ECT start going down. So temps may change after further tuning, we'll see.
After the full tune, I'll make changes accordingly to ECTs.
Drilling holes in the thermostat is not my style. I'd rather get one designed for a set temp, so that I can install a new one in future and not have to modify it again. I like simplicity. Not using non-resistor type plugs either.
Cisco, What's up my friend? I hope you are doing well. I am going to talk trash to you a little bit here, so understand that this is only intended to light a fire under your butt.
YOU ARE WAY OVER COMPLICATING THIS BUILD.
Lets reach down and grab that "manhood" god gave you and quit worring about superficial things and get to the meat of this build. You have one hell of a project... I understand your caution, but sometimes you just have to "go for it".
I like you very much and enjoy talking to you on the phone, so please don't feel that I am hating on you in any way. I am trying to get you to go back and re-read this thread and look at all of the little hang-ups you have had. In my opinion, you seem to be delaying this for all sorts of little things.
Come on bud. YOU CAN DO THIS. You are so close.
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Originally posted by 2point6 View PostIn my opinion, you seem to be delaying this for all sorts of little things.
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his main problem is tuning, quit wasting your time and take it to a real tuner and let them degree that cam, set the timing, start from the bottom and work his or her way up. if they cant make it idle without stalling or surging and stop fouling out plugs then you need to take it to someone else. PM me we need to talk about our projects.
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Originally posted by fatboy1185 View PostIt's the little things that kill
I think the ultra-cautious aproach is good, but really slowing you down. Get this done man... OR I will have my own f22 project done first.
Cisco, I consider you my friend and I am sure there is more to this than what I am reading. I fully believe that you will finish this and get the results you are after. I know you can do it!Last edited by 2point6; 02-24-2009, 01:18 AM.
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