Cisco NA F22 non-VTEC SOHC Project - Full Street White

[KeeleDesign]

just a thought because I have been toting with the idea... Some h22 and h23s have piston squirters installed in the girdle/ oil rail thing. Being that the blocks are virtually similar crank wise I think the unit would fit in the f22 and because it has the squirters would lower the oil pressure. As far as crankcase pressure your gonna need to go big with venting... I'm doing the -12 fittings to a catch can.

yeah oil squirters are nice for a high reving build, but sometimes they do starve the rest of the areas for oil, and to modify it to a f22 block seems slightly difficult, if you look at the design.. because it holes going through some tough spots..

[HondaFan81]

just a thought because I have been toting with the idea... Some h22 and h23s have piston squirters installed in the girdle/ oil rail thing. Being that the blocks are virtually similar crank wise I think the unit would fit in the f22 and because it has the squirters would lower the oil pressure. As far as crankcase pressure your gonna need to go big with venting... I'm doing the -12 fittings to a catch can.

I'll keep the squirter idea in the back of my mind, but I don't want to introduce another variable at the moment as I have issues with my current setup. However, I was wondering if I need to go larger for crankcase pressure relief. I was thinking along the same lines last night after some research on the internet. I saw some articles stating high oil pressure could be the result of high crankcase pressures. If that's the case, going larger like you said may help/work. I need to call around, get some more info and get another attack plan together. Please let me know if you find out any information.

I'm going to do a leakdown test to verify if I have high crankcase pressure. I can also remove one of the breather hoses to feel how much is coming out to get a reference. Also, verifying the oil psi gauge with mechanical gauge, never did that before. I'm wondering if I'm getting some electrical interferance or the sender unit is not working properly.

[hatchninja]

I would definitely run the stock pulley. Harmonic dampeners are important. Redzcstandard on H-T has a f22 in his CRX and he's ruined several sets of bearings because he's making very high hp, with no dampening.

[MR.PHIL]

,i'm loving the details that went on the built CisCo ,Good Job Bro .
i can't wait to see her run

[HondaFan81]

if there is a harbor freight up there, ick up their engine oil pressure tester. comes with a 1/8th npt fitting whih shouldbe the same as your sending unit. and its only 9.99

No need home boy, got a friend that owns his own shop, has everything you can think of. It was not a matter of equipment, but time.

Anyhow, I finally got around to mechanically checking my oil pressure tonight.

Setup:
- Endyn modified new OEM oil pump
- Kaizenspeed balance shaft removal kit
- Mechanical gauge hooked up to Greddy oil block adapter, in 1/8 NPT port next to Autometer oil psi gauge sender unit

Pressure Results:

- Cold engine start, 95 psi at 1800-2000 rpm
- Fully warm, 80-85 psi at 1300-1500 rpm
- Fully warm, max 105 psi by 4000 rpm (it will not exceed, pressure relief activates)
- Nothing more than 105 psi revved beyond 4000 rpm (~5000 rpm).

I noticed a 5 psi difference between Autometer oil psi gauge and mechanical gauge. I also noticed random fluctuation on the Autometer gauge compared to a nice steady reading on oil psi gauge. I wonder if my engine vibration or ground wire kit has to do with that. Either way, I feel more comfortable that the engine is properly fed. I'll use Autometer as reference, but not the final word. Also, I'm content with 105 psi max, atleast I know it is not increasing any further than this and besides it will help at 9000 rpms. I know my idle oil pressure is higher than stock, oh well, atleast I'm getting good lubrication.

EDIT: Noticed at 800 RPM (idle dipped down), oil psi was about 37.5 psi. This seems that it's normal on the lower RPM end.

[HondaFan81]

Also, I checked the crankcase pressure issue with popping out the dipstick after the engine being ran. I removed the two 1/2" crankcase breather hoses and plugged one, while checking the other port for how much pressure. I can feel it, but it doesn't seem excessive. However, then I plugged both ports in the valve cover/while revving and noticed the oil dipstick pop up. I let both ports breathe freely, while revving, no dipstick pop up.

I'm thinking the breather element (Mr. Gasket) is too restrictive and it's not letting the system breath as freely as it should. I'm going to get some small filter from a parts store that has K&N type filter material. Hopefully that helps.

Also, I did a compression test, all cylinders were well within 5 psi of one another. However, I forgot that my Bisimoto stage 3 F22 camshaft has a nasty overlap at idle/lower rpms, do this obviously had an affect on the compression readings. Anyhow, I emailed Bisi about it and he prefers to do leakdown tests to determine health of motor. Makes sense, I'll perhaps do that today, if I get the chance.

[HondaFan81]

Did some research on your oil pressure "issue".

10lbs per 1000rpm seems to be the good thing to do. So, since you'll more than likely be revving to 9k, I'd say you're oil pressure is find where it's at.

Yea, 10-12 psi per 1000 rpm is what I've read as well. Anyhow, I will double check under the valve cover when I get in there to readjust valve lash before final tune that all is getting properly lubricated. I'm confident the block is well lubricated and I've checked it all out, however I haven't had a chance to verify the head is doing alright because there is no outside port I can tap into the head of a F22ax SOHC non-vtec. I just have to remove the valve cover and check. Thanks though.

[HondaFan81]

I did a leakdown test yesterday on all cylinders and got 3% across the board. So it seems the rings are okay (0-5% is okay according to a couple sources). It only leaks air past the rings as it should, not out the valves (which from the headwork had a new valve job). I will be modifying my oil catch can to breathe more freely as I feel it is not and is the possible reason for popping the oil dipstick after some decent amount of revving.

After doing this oil catch can breather modification and hopefully fixing the crankcase pressure issue, I feel the motor is ready for final tuning when warm weather returns. Meanwhile, I still have to purchase new RC 550 cc/min peak & hold injectors, Bisimoto F22 street header and save up for final tuning expenses so it all works out. I'll try and complete this project as early as possible this year/2008 and it's all based on how quick I can accumulate money while saving up for a wedding.

Well, I finalized how to modify the 0.6L catch can system with two 15mm inlet ports I have. I will retain the two 1/2" hoses, but am installing two ports for two small K&N like breathers to help ventilate it bettter and not build up pressure.

[Accord SiR]

This thread is very intresting. Nice work, I can't wait to see what # this setup is going to put out.

[HondaFan81]

still haven't got that header ehh..... I'm really starting to wounder.. yeah i know it takes alot of work and math and all that good trial and eror stuff... but in the end i mean come on.... why isn't it done like was first described..? Their are alot of people waiting on your header to see the outcome, to decide rather they would want one or not, but if everyone has to wait as long as you, i don't think it will be feasable..
I am glad to see that you have worked out all your bugs.

Okay, I did not want to say this before, but perhaps I should to clear things up. Bisi did have my F22 street header complete, but you all know how he had his Del Sol stolen, well it had some Bseries prototype parts as well as my header in there. So my header was completed, then gone. He said give him one month and he'll get the same fabricator to do it again. Besides, I need some more time to accumulate money for the header anyhow since Bisi wants me to pay for it when it's ready to ship out. Even if I got it, I'd have to wait for final dyno tuning come in warmer weather.

[hatchninja]

hurry up and get some dyno results so you can set a record for me to break.

j/p....good luck, can't wait to see it all together.

[HondaFan81]

Installed the remodified oil catch can. Looks pretty cool with an aluminum can and 2 small blue cone filters for breathers.

Started the motor up and got it fully warmed up. This motor just fires up right away, no excessive cranking whatsoever. Sounds like a race car inside, brings a smile to my face every time. I'm already used to my red Accord, but this one sounds even more aggressive, brings back the enthusiasm I tell ya.

[quakerjoe]

Installed the remodified oil catch can. Looks pretty cool with an aluminum can and 2 small blue cone filters for breathers.

Started the motor up and got it fully warmed up. This motor just fires up right away, no excessive cranking whatsoever. Sounds like a race car inside, brings a smile to my face every time. I'm already used to my red Accord, but this one sounds even more aggressive, brings back the enthusiasm I tell ya.

I cant wait to hear it...

[owequitit]

Installed the remodified oil catch can. Looks pretty cool with an aluminum can and 2 small blue cone filters for breathers.

Started the motor up and got it fully warmed up. This motor just fires up right away, no excessive cranking whatsoever. Sounds like a race car inside, brings a smile to my face every time. I'm already used to my red Accord, but this one sounds even more aggressive, brings back the enthusiasm I tell ya.

[HondaFan81]

Took the motor out for a test spin, the better oil catch can seemed to fix the crankcase pressure popping the dipstick issue. I was happy to see that, plus it looks better.

Put some more 93 octane gas in the car, noticed that now the car bucks/surges when accelerating and sometimes while cruising as well. I called the tuner to relay this information and as I expected, the motor is simply ready for final tune. The leakdown numbers were good at 3% across the board, as this happens it throws your initial tuning off because it was done on a brand new motor. Anyhow, it needs final tuning. The motor did not overheat while taking it out for a spin, all is well. Also, no leaks still remains true.

So I await this winter to break into better weather for final tuning and the arrival of the Bisimoto header. I'll adjust my valve lash again, prep the car for final tuning. Not much else to update on this car until then.