Cisco NA F22 non-VTEC SOHC Project - Full Street White

[HondaFan81]

I've been doing alot of researching regarding oil pressure and oil pumps in the past few days. Anyhow, I've decided to get a new OEM Honda oil pump and have it modified by Endyn for the higher RPMs I will see, 9000 RPM to be specific. They already purchased a new unit for me, I'll pay for it end of this month. When I receive that part, I will replace the TOGA oil pump.

Meanwhile, I will use a mechanical check gauge for oil pressure to verify the readings are correct. Also, will verify the coolant system temps are above normal. If so, check for coolant blockages, remove Tstat and verify flow is good. If all seems well, then remove & inspect water pump, if problem found with impeller replace with new OEM. However, if the coolant system issue leads to the water pump, then there is no point in removing that until the Endyn oil pump is received since I'll have to get in there anyhow and remove the Tbelt, etc. I'm also throwing the stock F22 crank pulley back on at this point.

I should some investigation results by end of this week. I've been working on a stock F22a4 rebuild for my parent's 93 Accord LX, it's complete. Motor runs great, no leaks, drove it home with no problems. It's my old white Accord F22a4 block with reconditioned head basically. Since that project is done, now I have time for my issues.

[HondaFan81]

Haha Endyn in Fort worth they do a decent job. Customer service isnt the greatest from some of my friends experiences but other than that they are pretty good.

So far their customer service has been excellent for me. I spoke with Larry on the phone for 30-45 minutes and learned a great deal. He ordered the new OEM oil pump for me at that moment and gave me price quote, within 1 hour he ordered the part and called me back with a date of its arrival at their shop for modification. He's been updating me with progress via email. I have no complaints, this guy knows his stuff, knows Honda and its products very well, also has a great passion for them.

FYI: I have learned that what third party people have to say is worthless and misleading. Contact the people yourself, ask questions that put them on the spot and gauge their answers, are they helpful and know their stuff or not? Finding it out first-hand is the best way, each person and situation is unique and you don't know what happened. A "reputable" company can have good service to some customers and not with others, it depends on how busy they are, the attitudes of the people there and attitudes of the customers they deal with. Sometimes you learn that people who talk smack about a company, do so because THEY were the problem or screwed up and tried pinning the blame on a company or gave them problems in payment, etc and so what you hear from this customer is negative/deceiving, but the company actually was justified.

[turbo90accord]

ENDYN is really quality stuff and have been around for a very long time! good choice!!!

[NAiL05]

FYI: I have learned that what third party people have to say is worthless and misleading. Contact the people yourself, ask questions that put them on the spot and gauge their answers, are they helpful and know their stuff or not? Finding it out first-hand is the best way, each person and situation is unique and you don't know what happened. A "reputable" company can have good service to some customers and not with others, it depends on how busy they are, the attitudes of the people there and attitudes of the customers they deal with. Sometimes you learn that people who talk smack about a company, do so because THEY were the problem or screwed up and tried pinning the blame on a company or gave them problems in payment, etc and so what you hear from this customer is negative/deceiving, but the company actually was justified.

Thats true. Everyones experience varies. Overall most of the jobs he has done have been pretty top notch from what I have seen. Old man has experience I can tell you that. Another thing is that sometimes he gets really busy and gets backed up.

[Boost_Lee]

glad to see my endyn advice was helpful

[HondaFan81]

Did further investigation today.

Oil Pressure Issue:

- Cold startup today shot to the 12.5 - 25 psi range ran for about 30 seconds, I shut engine off as that's too low
- Restarted engine and pressure shot to shy of 100 psi, then warming down to 87.5 psi
- I am very convinced the TOGA oil pump is junk and oil relief sticking, it's getting replaced with Endyn modified new OEM Honda unit period


Coolant/Overheating Issue:

- Removed lower & upper radiator hoses to check for blockage and flushed radiator, found no blockages
- Removed Tstat, reinstalled hoses, bled system throughly and refilled coolant
- Ran motor until fully warm, idling 1500 rpm and some short burst revs
- All coolant hoses (lower, upper & heater) were hot
- First, when idling at 1500 rpm temp was normal, then after this point revving the motor a good few times caused overheating because both fans did not work
- Measured coolant with temp probe to be 199 deg F at radiator filler neck
- Replacing radiator fan coolant switch with tested good used unit, changing A/C fan switch with new OEM
- Fan switch wiring has been verified to work couple days prior
- At time of oil pump replacement, water pump will be removed, inspected and replaced with known-good 7,000 mile unit (refer to note below)

NOTE: This motor will see 9000 rpm, I am set on doing a Tbelt job on this motor every 50,000 miles. Considering I have no balance shafts, I need no front or rear balance shaft seals or its belt. I will replace Tbelt, water pump, front crank seal and camshaft seal. Also, keep in mind I will only be driving this car in warm weather/no snow/no salt on roads, so the mileage will not accumulate as fast on this car as my daily driver red Accord.

[Boost_Lee]

that sucks cisco hope you can pinpoint the coolant problem. I have a temp gauge at the waterneck on the head, and my fans kick on right at 200 or 210 degrees

also, i tried the mechanical gauge in the little time i had today, and on cold startup it read 75 psi. too bad the gauge started to drip oil, so i had to shut it off and try again tomorrow. I am pretty sure that the oil pump is your problem, and it sucks to see it happen to your project

[HondaFan81]

that sucks cisco hope you can pinpoint the coolant problem. I have a temp gauge at the waterneck on the head, and my fans kick on right at 200 or 210 degrees

also, i tried the mechanical gauge in the little time i had today, and on cold startup it read 75 psi. too bad the gauge started to drip oil, so i had to shut it off and try again tomorrow. I am pretty sure that the oil pump is your problem, and it sucks to see it happen to your project

It sucks more so because its more money invested, more time and frustration. Have to remove a decent amount to get to the oil pump, clean & reseal, then reinstall

[HondaFan81]

Last night I took a spare radiator fan coolant switch (one @ Tstat housing) and tested it to be good with boiling water (~212 deg F) because the close point for the switch is 194 deg F. It tested open when cold, closed when hot all point to a good unit.

About a week ago I mentioned the radiator fan coolant switch wiring was okay and worked properly, but fan did not kick on. Well, now I know that it was the switch because tonight I tested it to be bad when hot, it remains opened (again with with boiling water).

Same deal a week ago regarding the A/C fan coolant switch, except I verified that wiring did not work. I fixed that and it seems the A/C fan does not kick on either. I had to order some random Honda OEM parts from Majestic, so I threw in one new A/C coolant fan switch, so I know it will be good (I'll test it before install to make sure it's not defected).

Basically the cooling fans should all work in the near future, this will help my idle overheating when revving the motor in park or letting it run for extended period of time.

However, I still have to inspect the water pump when the modified Endyn oil pump comes in. There is the possibility that the water pump may be damaged. Actually, I think I'll inspect the water pump out of curiosity and replace it with a known good unit regardless to make sure.

EDIT: Cooling fans do need to work even when car is driving down road/HWY to properly cool an engine. Therefore, I determined both my fans did not work, as stated above, now they do and engine temp is fine. I'm also going to run 30% coolant/70% water mixure in the warm weather to further help cooling.

[NAiL05]

It sucks more so because its more money invested, more time and frustration. Have to remove a decent amount to get to the oil pump, clean & reseal, then reinstall

But its all worth it in the end when everything finally comes together as 1

[NAiL05]

SOunds good man. GL with the wedding funds. Cant wait to see this thing finally done in 08.

[HondaFan81]

Engine Install Photos (engine break-in period setup):


Engine Overall (stock F22a4 header & old catch can setup):



MSD SS Blaster Coil/Centralized Ground Area:



P/S Fluid Resorvoir Area (minimized P/S fluid system capacity, removed main lines):

[HondaFan81]

lovin it

where are the catch can lines coming from exactly?

Two 1/2" hose lines coming from the stock valve cover crankcase breather ventilation port and the other from the PCV valve cover port (removed PCV, installed 1/2" inlet/outet barb). I used hose clamps on all hoses.

It is a free breathing crankcase ventilation system. I installed vacuum caps on the PCV port on the IM and the intake piping port for crankcase breather.

[Camurai]

It looks so pedestrian.

When somebody gets smoked by this and gets to look under the hood afterward, they'll be scratching their heads for sure!

[NAiL05]

It looks so pedestrian.

When somebody gets smoked by this and gets to look under the hood afterward, they'll be scratching their heads for sure!

What he said IT LOOKS THE SAME. lol nice hopefully bisi's header will be able to finish the missing piece in your motor. Plus your engine bay will be all shiny!