Originally posted by 10thcb7
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From this point on until otherwise briefed, posting in the general section of Performance Tech is prohibited. The only thing to remain here will be the stickies. We would just delete this section, but that would cause unintended results.
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For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
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Cisco NA F22 non-VTEC SOHC Project - Mild Red
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Mustang dyno is probably as "real life" as you're going to get. Most other dyno's read higher because everyone loves big numbers, bragging rights...etc.
But a mustang dyno is the most correct dyno there is.
That torque curve is nice.
EDIT*
It's interesting how playing with the cam gear didn't even move the power band around. It really just decreased the entire power band.
IMO, from what I have seen, cam gear+single cam=useless in most cases.Last edited by d112crzy; 08-22-2007, 11:03 AM.
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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Originally posted by d112crzyIMO, from what I have seen, cam gear+single cam=useless in most cases.
If you can't read the graph well, 0 degree for cam was best setting for HP/torque, then advanced 2 degree, worst was retarding 2 degree.
I learned from this and now that you all finally see my dyno graph proving this, don't waste your money or I'll come out of nowhere and b*tch slap you silly! I wasted $200 on extra cam tuning, plus $110 on Skunk2 cam gear to find this out for you guys, use it!
Now, if you have a SOHC cam that is not a regrind, like some of Bisimoto's cams, I think cam adjustability will make a difference. I shall see in my white project, as I will spend the money for the extra cam tuning as well.Last edited by HondaFan81; 08-22-2007, 12:34 PM.
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I learned today that my 152 whp on the Mustang roller dyno I tested on is 8-10% lower than Dynojet #'s. That means I would be at 165-169 whp on a Dynojet.Last edited by HondaFan81; 09-26-2007, 01:02 PM.
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yes sur, that's correct Mustang rollers are known for that
THEN: 1993 Accord 10th Ann. Ed.---------------------- NOW: 1996 Accord EX
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Originally posted by d112crzyAnd it can only get better. That's the best part.
All I gotta really say is:
People of cb7tuner, this AUTO is NOT a joke. It has impressed ME, the hater of auto's.
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I think what's been causing the off-idle hesitation lately is an exhaust leak. It is more than likely that d**n kamikaze header leaking again. I'm tired of that POS, never buy one!
I may just get a 2nd Bisimoto header for this car for the better quality and 1 piece design, less chance of leaks. There is nothing out there with 2.5" collector that's better than a Kamikaze by design, so whatever. This just sucks, I like to do things right and once, but this product has been an issue, not something I did. What an irritation.
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Originally posted by HondaFan81I think what's been causing the off-idle hesitation lately is an exhaust leak. It is more than likely that d**n kamikaze header leaking again. I'm tired of that POS, never buy one!
I may just get a 2nd Bisimoto header for this car for the better quality and 1 piece design, less chance of leaks. There is nothing out there with 2.5" collector that's better than a Kamikaze by design, so whatever. This just sucks, I like to do things right and once, but this product has been an issue, not something I did. What an irritation.
Well at least you have been able to source the problem and can hopefully find a solution...
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I was just on the site where I was dyno tuned. Here is a 2000 Prelude SH motor dynoed at the same place I did on Mustang Dyno with I/H/E modifications.
2000 Prelude SH motor I/H/E:
http://www.pure-tuning.com/images/dy...dyno_h22a3.jpg
My dyno graph: F22a1 stock block, 87 octane, headwork, camshaft, ported/bored H23 intake manifold, I/H/E
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...6&page=1&pp=20
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Originally posted by preludeman92Wow. That H22 was either sick or the dyno is reading low. Your red accord came fairly close to it's numbers!
That is probably pretty typical of an H22 on a Mustang dyno. There is some controversy that OBDII H22's don't do as well as OBD-I, but I think it was till pretty close. A 100% stock H22 will usually pull about 160-170 on a Dynojet which reads higher in most cases. So this is reasonable for a stock H22 on a Mustang. IMO.
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I was at my local performance/dyno shop again today to buy an Ingalls front camber kit for this red Accord (since H&R sport spring drop). Anyhow, in BSing I found that an H22 Type S motor with Bisimoto header dropped down 17Xwhp on this same Mustang dyno supposedly according to his memory.
Anyhow, I'm contemplating getting a 2nd Bisimoto header to replace the POS Kamikaze header I have now that is more than likely leaking AGAIN! I'm getting it more for the better quality because I'm sick of beating a dead horse and it so happens his product is the only one better in quality and performance.
DC sports offers a 2.5" collector for H22 motor now, but I verified they don't with F22, otherwise I would have bought this.
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