Originally posted by gloryaccordy
I was posting this info up cuz I was bored, felt like keeping people posted.
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This has been replaced on both my cars because their connections were both poor when bought. I fixed the problem, it was the starter assembly, it start right up after taking a 40-45 minute drive to work, letting it sit a bit after I parked it and going back to start it again. The solenoid was going bad, anytime you touched it when trying to start (if it was not starting up), it would then start.
I was posting this info up cuz I was bored, felt like keeping people posted. -
It is a manual cougar v6 on 55 shot nitrous. Thing that sucks, I was farting around in my red Accord and decided to rip it off a light, clutch doesn't hold up for crap in first, even right when shifting into 2nd (being at 5XXX rpms), it started slipping on me then too. Clutch has like 45,000 miles on it Clutch specialties stage 1, it's crap. So this will be a further disadvantage taking off from a light, if I'm gonna win it will be on the highway pulling or nothing.Originally posted by 10thcb7auto cougars arnt a threat . But a nitrous manual might. Its kinda like racing a tiburon. Just cause its and F O R D doesnt mean its bunk. the torque may be his upper hand tho.
I'm definitely set on getting a Bisimoto 1MS clutch kit after this one goes, it still has some life left, just can't beat on it much. Sucks, but I can't start spending money back on this red, until white is done. I have to keep focus, otherwise nothing will get done.Comment
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Originally posted by HondaFan81Thought this may interest people considering a Tokico HP Kit that's advertised as a 1.25" drop. I wanted this because I daily driver setup that's a bit better than stock. As you see the rear is more affected than the front.
Between this, your other project and cp[mike]'s member's ride, I can't choose the best project car on the site. Keep up the good work!
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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I dont under stand why some areas are shorter than others. Is this some kind of defect. ?Comment
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The original values before I touched this red Accord were all over the place because the suspension was totally shot in this car, it road like crap and made some noise, but I bought it for the potential I saw in the car. I know I can fix all the suspension/brake stuff and I did, it runs somewhat firm and completely smooth now.Originally posted by 10thcb7
The totally settled values you see above are for Tokico HP blue shocks and Tokico 1.25" HP springs, and it is what it is. Really, it's not much of a difference considering ALL the parts in the car's suspension that contribute, think about it....how come when you get an alignment all the values are not exactly the same? Similar reasons, can't get that picky, it's not practical.
Anyhow, just to clarify, this car is riding on the same Tokico HP shocks but with H&R sport springs now and so it sits lower, but not as low as my white. This setup is great for a daily driver, looks good, handles well and still can get over RR tracks/inclines, etc no problem.Comment
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Fixed my high mount brake light today, never worked since I bought this car. Yipee!
Didn't work on my white project accord today.Comment
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Does your stock block feel safe at 7K+? Did you do anything to keep the bottom end better lubricated?
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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Originally posted by gloryaccordy
He has stated in here that the bottom end is completely stock with over 200K on it.
He has also said that he doesn't rev it that high all the time because it is a DD and he doesn't want to chance it, although there haven't been any problems.Comment
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It's fine and the oil lubrication system is stock. I use Mobil1 synthetic 5W-30 and change every 7,000 miles with Purolator premium plus oil filter. I also do valve lash adjustments every 12,000 miles instead of every 15,000 like a stock motor because it tends to get tighter sooner from higher RPMs. My block was fine when it was stock and still is. I've replaced every external seal on the block, so it does not leak at all, etc. If I get in the higher RPMs fairly frequent between oil changes, I probably have to add 1 quart total every 7,000 miles to keep the oil level topped off, which I would say is normal if you rev your motor up a good amount.Originally posted by gloryaccordy
Anything consistently above 7,000 RPM, I would look into doing something for better lubrication and heat dissipation, which I did for my white Accord project that may very well hit 9,000 RPMs. You can refer to the project thread in my sig link for those details, outside what I've posted I don't care to discuss.Comment
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Yep, Scott is right. The car when bought had 200,000 miles on it and after a full stock tune-up it ran stronger than any of my family's CB7s. I modified it at 210,000 miles and now have 245,XXX miles on it with no motor problems. When I looked into the cylinders at 210,000 miles every one had the factory honing marks still in them!Originally posted by owequititComment
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Doing some work on my red Accord today.
- removed balance shaft belt
- made my own diagram for Accord P/S system, made plans on how to eliminate the P/S and still lubricate the gear box and VSS (will do later)
- fixed rubbing issue of alternator belt with lower timing cover
Wondering if I'll notice a difference in the way the motor performs and its responsiveness.Last edited by HondaFan81; 06-04-2007, 12:30 AM.Comment
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Well, I've been running with no balance shaft belt for a few days now and I feel the car revs up/accelerates smoother. I don't notice any difference in vibration at idle, but keep in mind that my car idles at 1200 RPM with my modifications anyhow. I already had vibrations at idle before the belt removal.Comment
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Red runs much smoother at higher RPMs now since the balance shaft belt removal and it seems to reach 120mph easier and feels like there is less strain on the motor to get up there.Comment
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If you read my posts, I stated that I just removed the belt.Originally posted by The G-ManComment
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Caught my co-worker/friend on the highway yesterday in that 99 Cougar 5-spd (he didn't have nitrous bottle opened), we did a run from 60mph to about 100-110mph and I beat him. He said he was topping out 4th gear at about 100mph and I was already ahead, still pulling. I can go to 110mph in 3rd gear before shifting to 4th. On this 60mph pull, I started about 1 car length behind him for whatever reason before we both got on it.
Hopefully next time I catch him, he'll have his nitrous on.Comment
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