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Wanna get a cam, tuning question

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    Wanna get a cam, tuning question

    Heyz yall at cb9 tuner (i have a wagon). I was wondering about getting a stage 1 cam from bisi. Dont have a tunable ecu just a p12. Dont really plan to get a tunable one if its too costly. That maybe later on. (Can someone give me an estimate on how much it would or should cost to get an ecu and tune, and do I have to dyno tune it?)

    Just wanna swap a stage 1 cam in for now. What is the process of getting the cam, so I have to ship my cam in and they will re-grind it? thing is i drive the car and don't have time to wait the 10 or so days for them to ship it back. I heard for the stage 1 you dont need to tune or have any valve train upgrades, which is good I guess, but I'm just afraid my head will blow up either way even if it is stage 1.


    Thanks.
    “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
    ― Jeremy Clarkson




    Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


    Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

    #2
    Originally posted by Mishakol129 View Post
    Dont have a tunable ecu just a p12. Dont really plan to get a tunable one if its too costly. That maybe later on.
    if your not going to bother tuning dont do it. and which is it? later on or never, this sounds like an "i want my car to go fast tell me how i can do it" thread.

    Originally posted by Mishakol129 View Post
    (Can someone give me an estimate on how much it would or should cost to get an ecu and tune, and do I have to dyno tune it?)
    im going to go ahead and say it depends on where you take it to get tuned and where you buy/find your ECU. if you want to tune an ECU then yes you dyno it. if you just set a basemap and plug it in, thats not a tune.

    Originally posted by Mishakol129 View Post
    Just wanna swap a stage 1 cam in for now. What is the process of getting the cam, so I have to ship my cam in and they will re-grind it? thing is i drive the car and don't have time to wait the 10 or so days for them to ship it back.
    go to a junk yard, find your matching engine, take 5 minutes and get the cam, mail it to bisi. no worries.

    Originally posted by Mishakol129 View Post
    I heard for the stage 1 you dont need to tune or have any valve train upgrades, which is good I guess, but I'm just afraid my head will blow up either way even if it is stage 1.
    i would get a tune. if not your not using the re grind to the full potential. i dont think it would blow up... but it would wear out your springs a lot more and increase the chances of a bent valve i would think.

    C-3PO's MRT USDM yo!

    then i see my baby, suddenly I'm not crazy,
    It all makes sense when i look into her eyes

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Quashish View Post
      if your not going to bother tuning dont do it. and which is it? later on or never, this sounds like an "i want my car to go fast tell me how i can do it" thread.



      im going to go ahead and say it depends on where you take it to get tuned and where you buy/find your ECU. if you want to tune an ECU then yes you dyno it. if you just set a basemap and plug it in, thats not a tune.



      go to a junk yard, find your matching engine, take 5 minutes and get the cam, mail it to bisi. no worries.



      i would get a tune. if not your not using the re grind to the full potential. i dont think it would blow up... but it would wear out your springs a lot more and increase the chances of a bent valve i would think.
      This... I know how you feel about wanting your car to go faster but if you daily it, dont cheap out. a ecu and a street tune at least. Id personally upgrade the valve springs as they will get worn out quicker with the more aggressive cam as stated above

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Junior Smurff View Post
        This... I know how you feel about wanting your car to go faster but if you daily it, dont cheap out. a ecu and a street tune at least. Id personally upgrade the valve springs as they will get worn out quicker with the more aggressive cam as stated above
        What's a street tune?
        “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
        ― Jeremy Clarkson




        Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


        Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Mishakol129 View Post
          What's a street tune?
          instead of putting it on the dyno, you tune it on the street. Your tuner will be in the car with you while your driving and hes working on the computer tuning your ecu


          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=194049

          Comment


            #6
            Get a wideband, an EGT, and build a pair of det-cans and you'll never have to jump on a dyno! With a mild compression NA engine of course.
            '93 H22A 5SPD SE - MRT - DIY-Turbo Sizing

            Comment


              #7
              Just post a wanted ad on here, I'm sure plenty of folks have extra cams.

              Stage 1 is pretty mild, I wouldn't bother with a tune. I've been running a Gude cam (Similar specs to Bisi stage 2) on stock valve springs and PT6 ecu. No issues for 50k miles.
              1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser

              1986 Chevrolet C10|5.3L|SM465|Shortbed|Custom Deluxe

              1983 Malibu Wagon|TPI 305|T5 5 speed|3.73 non-posi


              1992 Accord Wagon (RETIRED)

              Comment


                #8
                I would suggest getting the pt6 ecu, A6 camshaft from the junkyard, h23/f22a6 plenum, f22a4 exhaust manifold, and an h22 t body. That right there will not need a tune and will probably perform better than the Bisi level 1 camshaft untuned.

                When I had the Bisi level 2 camshaft in the f22 not tuned yet, it had good power, but after the tune, wow. It was a big difference. So tuning will make a big difference if you were to have an aftermarket camshaft.

                Side note, and I did have the above OEM bolt ons too and it also made little more power. Good luck b
                The beginning of a new era............................
                165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                Comment


                  #9
                  A mild cam like that won't "need" a tune, but you could probably pull some more power from the engine if you did tune.

                  Honestly, if you're ordering from Bisimoto, why not call and ask them? They should know their products well enough to tell you what you can and can't do better than we do.






                  Comment


                    #10
                    I was in the pick n pull yard today (my first time ever and it was AWESOME) as I was looking for some doors. Got a door but it didn't fit cause it wasn't from a wagon, the wagon doors are just a quarter inch wider in one area.... Anyway, while I was there looking at another accord I noticed a cam with a cam gear from and EX that was chllin in the back seat floorboard like a sign from God "GET THIS CAM WITH CAM GEAR NOW!" lol. The number on the cam is "3A", so its an a6 gear I think (correct me if i'm wrong).


                    Came out with it for about $28. My question is about what regrind I should get, Delta or Bisi? And if Delta what is the name of the stage 1 that they make? I heard Delta is cheaper, which is a good think cause I don't wanna spend a whole lot on a stage 1 cam. Then again I heard Bisi makes the best Honda parts so idk. What would you do? Remember i'm not going to be tuning it right now cause its so hard with an auto.
                    Last edited by Mishakol129; 04-12-2013, 06:32 PM.
                    “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
                    ― Jeremy Clarkson




                    Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
                    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


                    Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

                    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Delta doesn't have a "stage 1". Like I said (either in this thread or elsewhere... many times), "stage 1" is manufacturer specific. One "stage 1" may be far different from another.
                      Anyway, Delta's mildest generic grind is a 260. 272 is the one many people have gotten in the past. They make a 282, but I've only known one person on here that has gotten that (it's fairly extreme, not for use with stock springs, for sure)

                      Bisimoto's grinds are more carefully engineered. I doubt Delta has done much R&D for the F22A. Delta makes a decent product for what you pay, but Bisimoto's F22A experience makes their product superior without a doubt. Bisimoto's cams are made by Web, who is a quality manufacturer (and another potential source for a generic grind, such as from Delta.)






                      Comment


                        #12
                        When are you going to take some of the advice given to you and actually research this stuff instead of continuing to ask us what you should do? You don't like most of our answers anyway because they require you to spend money. That's simply the reality of modifying a car.

                        Have you read up on pgmfi.org as was advised to you in another thread? Have you looked up any of the specs of the camshafts you're talking about and comparing them? Maybe you don't know what those specs mean exactly but it would help you begin to learn.

                        This format of flogging the message boards with question after tedious question doesn't help you learn and gets annoying to answer.
                        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          So he should just get the Bisimoto cam?






                          Comment


                            #14
                            Oh, I thought I was implying for him to get an F22B1 cam. I guess I wasn't clear enough.
                            My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                              Delta doesn't have a "stage 1". Like I said (either in this thread or elsewhere... many times), "stage 1" is manufacturer specific. One "stage 1" may be far different from another.
                              Anyway, Delta's mildest generic grind is a 260. 272 is the one many people have gotten in the past. They make a 282, but I've only known one person on here that has gotten that (it's fairly extreme, not for use with stock springs, for sure)

                              Bisimoto's grinds are more carefully engineered. I doubt Delta has done much R&D for the F22A. Delta makes a decent product for what you pay, but Bisimoto's F22A experience makes their product superior without a doubt. Bisimoto's cams are made by Web, who is a quality manufacturer (and another potential source for a generic grind, such as from Delta.)
                              I just went out and checked my cam I have on it right now... There are no markings on it which is strange cause I was reading that the A1-4 has a "3A" mark on it. Anyways...

                              I think i'll just get the stage 1 bisi regrind cause you don't need upgrades springs as they said you must do in stage 2 grind. I don't wanna get new springs either cause that would require you to pull the head off. My only question now is whether you need to have the adjustable cam gear (they said you do), and I quote,

                              Offers a 10% improvement in power over factory, with stock-like idle, with emphasis on the 1500 to 5700 rpm range. Emissions friendly. Takes 7-10 business days to manufacture, after stock cam core is recieved. Cam gears highly recommended. Purchase stock cam core, if one is not available. 0.396" valve lift on the intake, 0.369" exh; 212 deg duration on intake and 216 deg exhaust at 0.040"


                              Why would you need a new cam gear?
                              Last edited by Mishakol129; 04-12-2013, 07:46 PM.
                              “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
                              ― Jeremy Clarkson




                              Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
                              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


                              Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

                              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

                              Comment

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