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stay boost or N/A?

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    #1

    stay boost or N/A?

    So I've really been debating about trading my car for a CRX, reason being I want to do some autox events and I no longer take my car to the dragway. I've been looking at alot of cars, but then it hit me, maybe I should just keep my car, have it retuned at lower boost and use that for the autox.
    The power I'm making now is way too much for any lapping, so I would look to be around 240whp.
    Then I got to thinking again, I was debating to maybe sell my turbo setup and go N/A. My motor is pretty much brand new and I would probably just get a new header, but I'm wondering if reaching the 230-240whp is even possible with my current setup?
    I know the cb7 platform is not optimal for autox'ing, but the time and money that's in the car is hard to let go of.
    So go low boost or N/A for autox?

    SOLD!!
    Boosted H22
    375whp 298 ft/lbs at 15psi
    MEMBERS RIDE THREAD<<<CLICK FOR VIDS AND COOL PICS
    Tags: None
    #2
    N/A, autocross is typically tight cornered tracks, waiting for boost won't help.

    Comment

      #3
      N/A all the way for auto-x.

      Way more fun. 225-240whp is very doable with the right parts. Personally i wouldn't use the CB for auto-x due to the mcpherson strut design and the solid rear end.


      A dual wishbone front end and multi link rear suspension will be 10x more fun on the track.


      My thoughts.
      Originally posted by wed3k
      im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

      Comment

        #4
        Supercharger, that is what i say to that.
        Jesus drove a Honda, he just didnt talk about it like us. Proof - John 12:49 "For i did not speak of my own accord."
        Originally posted by deevergote
        den das al u ned u no dat u get wurs gas milge tho rite?
        Originally posted by deevergote
        These cars will never be the best at anything, but they're pretty damn good at everything.

        Comment

          #5
          What's your current compression? I think the last time I checked out your build you were at 10:1 or was that Mr.Phil? But either way I would run 10:1 compression and then add a smaller turbo that will spool quickly, so that you aren't waiting for boost. Or possibly take the nitrous route, for that instant punch.
          '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

          Originally posted by deevergote
          If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Joey GT-R View Post
            What's your current compression? I think the last time I checked out your build you were at 10:1 or was that Mr.Phil? But either way I would run 10:1 compression and then add a smaller turbo that will spool quickly, so that you aren't waiting for boost. Or possibly take the nitrous route, for that instant punch.
            it is 10:1 and a smaller turbo could be an option, although when I was running the stock h22 at 8psi the turbo lag wasnt bad, but I guess for autox any turbo lag is bad

            SOLD!!
            Boosted H22
            375whp 298 ft/lbs at 15psi
            MEMBERS RIDE THREAD<<<CLICK FOR VIDS AND COOL PICS

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by toycar View Post
              Personally i wouldn't use the CB for auto-x due to the mcpherson strut design and the solid rear end.
              Huh?
              Macperson strut on a CB, and a solid rear?


              Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

              My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

              A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

              If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View Post
                Huh?
                Macperson strut on a CB, and a solid rear?
                Maybe my terminology is incorrect.


                Macpherson strut type suspension being 1 lower control arm, 1 lower ball joint = less flex.


                Solid rear, meaning solid subfram with minimal linkage.

                Compared to like an civic/integra rear sub with multi link.


                They handle way better on corners. Both dual wishbone front and multi link rear.


                I think my terminology is incorrect, but I think you get what I am saying.
                Originally posted by wed3k
                im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

                Comment

                  #9
                  On a MacPherson strut the strut attaches to the knuckle and eliminates the upper control arm. The lower ball joint is still in the knuckle, but there is no upper ball joint.
                  My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
                    On a MacPherson strut the strut attaches to the knuckle and eliminates the upper control arm. The lower ball joint is still in the knuckle, but there is no upper ball joint.
                    Well there you go. Obviously ny terminology was way off.

                    Either way dual wishbone and multi link rear is way better for auto x
                    Originally posted by wed3k
                    im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

                    Comment

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