H22 head workover

[91kid]

So I'm looking to build an h22 I'd like to stay NA, I was looking at getting the Bisi Cnc and port work done to the head, is there a good amount of power to be gained here?

Also I've read that port flow does good work on heads, they use super tech titanium springs and in the end is about 250$ cheaper then Bisi... Is bisi's port job and springs any better?

Also with a ported head does the intake manifold start restricting flow?


I'm thinking stage 2 cams
Titanium springs/retainers
Bisi header
Ks balance delete
Light flywheel
Type s pistons
Euro or skunk intake mani

Just wondering if porting the the head and any intake mods or porting there would be of a good help ?

Hoping to get 250whp atleast

[91kid]

I know someone has to have built a nice NA h on here..

[Jarrett]

With a ported head and all the modifications you listed then yes, a factory intake will restrict potential air flow. But, since you have listed an aftermarket intake manifold as well I suppose you understand this already.

Also, there are no "Type R" pistons that will be any benefit to you. You probably mean Type-S pistons. It looks like you just went through a catalog and determined your engine needed those particular parts only because they are available. There are plenty of people on here and elsewhere that have done N/A builds and their opinions are well documented online. Just search around a bit and read up on people's personal experiences and determine what your own goals for a build are instead of asking people to bring the discussion to you.

[KeeleDesign]

Major power changes can be had from precise headwork. If you plan on high reving, you obviously want lighter titanium parts. Since the H22 is designed to high rev, your cam profile may need to be larger than a stage 2 cam for you hp goals. With a good tuning device you'd be able to fix your cross over so that it's a nicer DD with the larger cams. Your Fuel injectors, should be sustanable to those hp levels, but you may need to do what I had done and get afpr to controll a higher load of fuel to your cylinders.
close to 12:1 compression pistons and 93 octain fuel and a bit a timing calibration with a tuning device would help yeild you even closer to you power levels. I suggest mahle coated pistons and floating wrist pins, as I had very good luck with them.
A idea I should have done and regret it, I would delete the balance shaft if I ever build another. The risk for having it is far greater than the reward.
your stock H22 intake manifold is better than any aftermarket one's IMO, they flow great and other than swapping to itb's it should flow plenty of air.
Most of your money should go toward a tuning device for your engine, and adding a wideband o2 sensor to the device so you can see everything that is going on and get the most power out of every part you put on.

[91kid]

Major power changes can be had from precise headwork. If you plan on high reving, you obviously want lighter titanium parts. Since the H22 is designed to high rev, your cam profile may need to be larger than a stage 2 cam for you hp goals. With a good tuning device you'd be able to fix your cross over so that it's a nicer DD with the larger cams. Your Fuel injectors, should be sustanable to those hp levels, but you may need to do what I had done and get afpr to controll a higher load of fuel to your cylinders.
close to 12:1 compression pistons and 93 octain fuel and a bit a timing calibration with a tuning device would help yeild you even closer to you power levels. I suggest mahle coated pistons and floating wrist pins, as I had very good luck with them.
A idea I should have done and regret it, I would delete the balance shaft if I ever build another. The risk for having it is far greater than the reward.
your stock H22 intake manifold is better than any aftermarket one's IMO, they flow great and other than swapping to itb's it should flow plenty of air.
Most of your money should go toward a tuning device for your engine, and adding a wideband o2 sensor to the device so you can see everything that is going on and get the most power out of every part you put on.

Thanks and yes I already have budgeted a chipped p72 and an arm wide-band

I've been tuning a buddies h22 and a b series civic for a while I'm no pro, but I'm getting pretty good at it..

I just didn't want to dump 2000$ on head work for little or no gains.
I want to avoid sleeving the block, that's why I'm thinking of the type s pistons

[Jarrett]

I should clarify that when I said that the factory intake will be a restriction I intended that to mean in its factory form with IABs intact and no porting or throttle body upgrade done.

[91kid]

I should clarify that when I said that the factory intake will be a restriction I intended that to mean in its factory form with IABs intact and no porting or throttle body upgrade done.

I plan to pull the iabs and get either double stacked plates or the backtrax spacer, also will get a larger throttle body.

Any other easy mods to help it flow better through the intake

[KeeleDesign]

Mahles coated forged pistons allow you to not have to sleeve the block.

I've been road tuning live data 5 years ,and without a dyno to tune on daily, no-one will become a expert at it. All the right sensors help though.

I have a Lc1 innovate wideband that i love more than any other, here is a link to the one i purchased.
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...9&cat=0&page=1

[91kid]

Mahles coated forged pistons allow you to not have to sleeve the block.

I've been road tuning live data 5 years ,and without a dyno to tune on daily, no-one will become a expert at it. All the right sensors help though.

I have a Lc1 innovate wideband that i love more than any other, here is a link to the one i purchased.
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...9&cat=0&page=1

http://www.hrtuning.com/catalog/prod...9d5ae91b149330

this is what im thinking about doing, looks like the same wideband even haha

id be interested to discuss some tuning bugs im having with a buddies car mind if i pm you?

[KeeleDesign]

Sure thing, if I'm familiar with your tuning device. I don't use afc's as they cause more problems in the long term that I don't want to deal with.

[deevergote]

Headwork will increase the effectiveness of other mods, especially cams and higher-compression pistons.

IMO, I'd buy a different header than the Bisimoto H22 header. Bisi makes good stuff, but there are better H22 headers on the market from what I've seen in independent, unbiased tests. HyTech, SMSP (may have ceased production), RMF (also may have ceased production, as Randy has passed away), Mugen (the best, but you pay for the name...) just to name a few. Just stay away from knockoff brands. They kill our aftermarket (I'd take Bisimoto 1000x over a knockoff!)

Also, "stage 2 cams" says very little. "Stage 2" means nothing other than it's got a more extreme profile than a company's "Stage 1".

If you can find any old posts by 2point6 back when he had his N/A H22A in his CB7, you may find a list of parts he used. He was making about 250whp (and beating C5 Z06s with it.) The work was extensive, so prepare to drop a fair amount of money on this build.
To my knowledge, 2point6 was running an SMSP header first, then an RMF header. His cams were WEB, and he found that the Euro R intake manifold performed better on his setup than the Skunk2 piece.

[91kid]

Thanks Deev for the info, I'll try and look that up, I'm looking to make 250-270whp if possible.

I'll also look into those other headers and the euro r manifold.

I'll have to do some cam research, I was looking at the skunk 2 pro 2's or Bisis stage 2

I don't want to push to much compression as I want to be able to run pump 92,and be reliable for 100k miles, I was thinking the type-s pistons for a nice bump.

I'm looking at 3-5k for the motor alone. Hopefully I can get the results I'd like

[KeeleDesign]

I have Web 546/547 cams in my dsm and they moved the power band where i wanted it while gaining 3lbs a minute by doing so. So I couldn't complain to much for $220., that is around 30hp give or take. If I were to dyno degree them I am sure i could squeeze anoth 1lb, but it's not worth it to me. On a NA I'm sure it wouldn't be as much and youll need more overlap.
I'm cusrious as to what rpm you want the 270hp to be maxed out?
That alone would help alot of people give you better direction. But to make that hp to the wheels your going to need to be closer to 300+ crank hp. And without any gogo juices, your going to spend more than a turbo setup that could blow that hp number out of the ball park, still without sleeving your block.
Not intending to say you should go turbo because it's cheaper. It's the truth it would cost less and with the right size, it would have minimal lag. You wouldn't need head work done. Because it would force more through whats their than any N/A on the streets thats been reworked could ever do.

Ideas Ideas.

[deevergote]

That is true. I was once told by a knowledgeable guy that a polish, not a port job, is all that would be needed for a good turbo head. I suppose it depends on your goals. For a street car that makes power in a usable powerband, you probably don't want too much airflow capability in the head. Velocity is important as well. Though a turbo build is a totally different animal. If you go that route, scrap all previous plans.

I believe Web makes Bisi's cams. They're a very good company.
I despise Skunk2, but their Pro cams have a damn near flawless reputation. Skunk2 cams are the only Skunk2 parts I'd ever consider letting near my H22A.

[91kid]

I have Web 546/547 cams in my dsm and they moved the power band where i wanted it while gaining 3lbs a minute by doing so. So I couldn't complain to much for $220., that is around 30hp give or take. If I were to dyno degree them I am sure i could squeeze anoth 1lb, but it's not worth it to me. On a NA I'm sure it wouldn't be as much and youll need more overlap.
I'm cusrious as to what rpm you want the 270hp to be maxed out?
That alone would help alot of people give you better direction. But to make that hp to the wheels your going to need to be closer to 300+ crank hp. And without any gogo juices, your going to spend more than a turbo setup that could blow that hp number out of the ball park, still without sleeving your block.
Not intending to say you should go turbo because it's cheaper. It's the truth it would cost less and with the right size, it would have minimal lag. You wouldn't need head work done. Because it would force more through whats their than any N/A on the streets thats been reworked could ever do.

Ideas Ideas.

The problem with boost is every boosted car I've ever been around has a super short powerband, seems like you either get a ton of torque and then te turbo runs outta steam at 6000rpms or visa versa..

I want to autocross and a turbo setup is going to take a beating under those cicumstances..

I'd like to see peak power at 7-8k but with a lot of mid range power too