f22 to h22 IM adapter with Skunk2 IM installed see pics, dyno to come

[Tishock]

07/09/2012 UPDATE - Overheating issues due to blocked coolant passage by adaptor, see post #5
07/18/2012 UPDATE - Still no dyno. I've been dealing with some Gremlins that have come up over the last couple of weeks..
07/19/2012 UPDATE - Cross my fingers, I think I've solved the last of my issues (Gremlins). Will go out on a test drive later tonight.
07/20/2012 UPDATE - Still having problems. See Post #15 regarding my MAP sensor issue and questions I have.
07/22/2012 UPDATE - Issues have been fixed and the car is running normally now.
08/03/2012 UPDATE - Dyno tuning has been scheduled for 08/08/2012. AEM EMS v1. I'll also be running the car hard at an autox this weekend August 11-12
08/08/2012 UPDATE - Unfortunately the Dyno tuning session did not happen this morning. My AEM EMS was not working correctly when it was hooked up. So it was dropped off at AEM's offices for evaluation and repair. Should hear back by tomorrow morning. If repaired then the car will be Dynode as early as tomorrow. If it cant be repaired it will be at least 2-4 weeks before I can purchase another EMS.

08/15/2012 UPDATE - My AEM EMS is no good . So it's going to be about a month before I can buy a new one and reschedule the dyno tune. But that's if I don't start working on my RX7 again (see signature). It's been almost 4 months since pulling the engine and I haven't touched it since.

FYI - I'm not going to add any new updates after this, until the car has been dynode.

The car is running strong. But I may upgrade my exhaust and I may have my Bisi Header welded together (the exhaust fumes are killing me). And I'll resist the urge to change anything else until the dyno tune.


__________________

These parts have been sitting in my garage for a couple years now and I finally had time to do this project. The only issues were figuring out how to route things and a few small clearance issues. But overall it was not a difficult experience. Funny thing I had to cannibalize my RX7 for vacuum hoses, coolant hoses and coupler from my Greddy Turbo kit to get this project done.

It’s late now and I only took a quick test drive but I did feel the difference. I will really stomp on it tomorrow and add some more detail to its performance. Attached are some pics including a before dyno sheet. Next Saturday I’ll get it dynode again.




From top to bottom - H23, H22 SKunk2, F22a1






Before



After






Base Dyno sheet
Set up

F22a6 head and block
F22a1 IM
AEM V2 CAI
Straight pipe to DC Sports exhaust
P12
Accel coil and 255 injectors
Bisimoto header

Dynapack (Church Automotive Testing)
139.7 whp 153.7 tq with basic upgrades.

76 Fahrenheit and running on 89 octane.


F2H

[F20A CB7]

Wowzers that looks super tight fit. Great job.

[Tishock]

Wowzers that looks super tight fit. Great job.

Yeah, I only have about half an inch of clearance between the TPS and the firewall. I think this would be an issue if I still had the stock motor mounts. But thats nothing a nice heavy hammer coulnt fix.

[Joey GT-R]

I'm really glad somebody went the distance in making this swap happen and posting it up. I get tired of the constant junkyard runs and selling/re-selling of H23 manifolds. Definitely will save this link in my back pocket for the noobs, lol.

[Tishock]

UPDATE:Ok, the dyno did not happen this past Saturday.

First issue - As you can tell from the image in the first post, the adapter blocks a coolant passage from the head through the intake manifold that is on the F22/H23 head. But the H22 head and intake manifold do not have this coolant passage. So you're left with an unused coolant hose on the thermostat housing. You can plug this inlet or you can reroute it to the heater hose with a T-fitting. Unfortunately neither of these options could keep my car from over heating. 5 mins of driving before it overheated with the plug and about 10 mins with the T-fitting. It just seemed that I could not bleed the system enough and the engine just did not like that coolant passage blocked off. So off the IM and adapter went ….

Maybe there's another way to route the unused hose or adding a cooler inline with a T-fitting….. But then I started thinking. Why was the coolant passage deleted?

So I took some measurements of the adapter, especially the area of the deleted coolant passage. Then some measurements of the Skunk2 IM. And concluded that their was plenty of room for a coolant passage to exist. There should have been a coolant tube in the adapter and instructions to grind away some material off the manifold for the tube to fit.

So this is what I did. And now my f22 runs as cool as it did before. No coolant or vacuum leaks.

[gloryaccordy]

Whered you get the adapter

[Tishock]

Whered you get the adapter

SwapShopRacing.com

http://www.swapshopracing.com/contents/en-us/p5502.html

[gloryaccordy]

Nice

I wish you had an H23 IM, thats the comparo I think a lot of people wanna see. Would the S2 make more power than that....

[F20A CB7]

Hi, did you have to extend the studs on the head so the gasket, and adapter will fit so you can put a bolt on it?

[Tishock]

Nice

I wish you had an H23 IM, thats the comparo I think a lot of people wanna see.

As you can see in the pics I have an h23 IM laying around the shop but I decided to keep the f22a1/4 IM when I base dynode it because I believe most cb7tuner guys here have the smaller IM. Besides, there are many on here that have already done that mod, the f22a6 IM and the h23 plenum and f22a6 runner combo. And many of these guys have already dynode their cars with those manifolds. Fewer members have those IM mods and the Bisi header but they are out there with dyno sheets. So comparison can be made between those IM setups and the Skunk2 IM.

I have a common basic f22 set up except for the Bisi header and the Skunk2 manifold. And that’s the point of all this. I want to see if 2 uncommon mods can have a very significant effect on power and that these can be seen to be worth the price for most CB7 guys to invest in. From my first dyno I know the Bisi header is worth it, so now its the Skunk2 IM's turn.

I have a built Bisi head, AEM fuel rail, larger injectors, AEM EMS and many other parts all sitting in the corner of the garage. So I plan to build this engine up with parts we all know will add power. So again many have done these upgrades before me but in most cases the Bisi header and the Skunk2 IM will be the difference. I will continue to post dyno numbers over the next year as more parts are added and then we’ll see what these 2 parts can do.

Nice

Would the S2 make more power than that....

In theory it should make more power, but how much more if any is the question. I obviously won’t know until after the dyno. The Skunk2 plenum has a better transition to the runners than the h23. The Skunk2 has a less restrictive straighter flow than the h23. And with the adapter, the runners are much longer than the h23 or f22a6. My plan is to stay NA and eventually in a few years go with ITBs when I get more serious about power. But until then I’m hoping this will be my best performance option.

The euro h22 IM is also an option but they cost nearly the same if not more than the Skunk2. Also I didn’t want to search for one when I was able to get a used Skunk2 very cheaply.

[Tishock]

Hi, did you have to extend the studs on the head so the gasket, and adapter will fit so you can put a bolt on it?

No. You actually remove the head studs and bolt the adapter onto the head with the supplied bolts and then bolt the manifold to the adapter again with supplied bolts.

I'll go in to more detail about the install later this week.

[Jarrett]

The power figures on swapshopracing.com's site are very misleading. A 32hp gain from a different OEM intake manifold (plus the additional runner length provided by the spacer) is just not realistic.

[Tishock]

The power figures on swapshopracing.com's site are very misleading. A 32hp gain from a different OEM intake manifold (plus the additional runner length provided by the spacer) is just not realistic.

I'm not using that dyno sheet as my only comparison or reference. For the same reason that I feel its a bit unrealistic. I only mention the additional length due to the adapter as a note to others considering this swap. Because "In general, long runners make more torque/low-end and the shorter runners are for top-end."

[gloryaccordy]

The power figures on swapshopracing.com's site are very misleading. A 32hp gain from a different OEM intake manifold (plus the additional runner length provided by the spacer) is just not realistic.

The way they wrote it is misleading, but I dont doubt the #s at all.

Peak gains were only about 10HP, which is about right. The +30HP was at redline, which given the nature of the mod makes total sense. I bet the H22/H23 plenums are close to twice as big as the F22A1 peashooter, so at redline that makes a huge difference. Plus you look at torque, you have gains ranging from 10-30lb ft through the rev range. Bottom line, the A1 IM sucks dick.

Which is why IMO the real dyno of value would be comparing the H23 IM to this setup. Any IM is better than the A1. But is this setup worth it over the H23? And other folks have dynod, but that was on different dynos, different days, different tunes, different mods, so its not really comparable.

[Tishock]

My map sensor is having issues reading manifold pressure.

The car will start and sometimes immediately throws a CEL 3 for MAP sensor. Then I reset and the car runs fine for up to 20 mins max (usually less than 10min) and out of the blue it will throw a CEL 3 (MAP Sensor) again. If I leave the car at idle, then no issues except that every 3 mins (maybe longer) the RPM drops about 300 RPM and immediately goes back to normal.

- IM and TB have been tested for vacuum leaks. All clear.
- MAP sensor tested and its good. Tried a second (tested good) and a third (tested good) MAP sensor just incase with the same results.
- Tried a spare ECU same results.
- O2 sensor replaced with NGK. Tested O2 sensor and harness to confirm its operating correctly
- TPS tested and working
- IACV Tested and working
- FITV deleted
- MAP sensor vacuum adaptor installed on TB
- All hoses checked

If I can start it without it throwing a CEL right away, I can run it hard to 5K RPM and then brake. Make hard turns and nothing happens. Then at random times it throws a CEL again and then the car runs like crap!

My only thought now is that the wiring harness from the MAP sensor to the ECU has a sometimes faulty connection. But the inconsistency is what's throwing me off.

OR…

I don’t understand why it would need it, because its just an IM. Plenty of people install an IM with out any issues running on a stock ECU. But maybe I need to get the car tuned. I have an AEM EMS in storage but I wasn’t planning to use it until I installed the Bisi modded head.

I'm on the verge of shelving this project and see if going back to the stock IM solves the problem. And if it does then I guess the car needs to be tuned to make this work correctly.

Any help is greatly appreciated.