Hmm. I agree that billets would be nice and i would have probably gone with them had I actually found billets for my H23, but no one made them so i actually had WebCams do mine and i'll agree with 2point6 since he was the one who originally told me to go there, they hold up well and i've been running them almost 10k with nothing but good results.
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
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Inexpensive cam options... OBX vs. Rocket Motorsports
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Originally posted by accordfreakdude first of all your friends cams were stage 2!!! a very agressive cam for the h22 and even more your friend didnt upgrade the valvetrain!! WTF
stage 1s are almost the same specs as the type S cams but with a little more lift and duration so it wont hurt any of your engine! whatsoever any cam with inappropiate instalation will fucked up your engine and even more if it is an agressive cam as a stage 2 !!!
stage 2's required valvetrain upgrade and even piston snotch, i personally defend OBX stage 1s i research a lot about them just before i bought'em and i saw a lot of good results with stage 1s, if you want a mild setup you can rely on them but when you want to do aggresive changes for power gain better prepare your wallet to suffer and dont be a cheap ass dork!
Those pictures of are of my rockers.
1st, I did upgrade my valvetrain, I had supertech springs, retainers, and valves. So I don't know where you come off saying that I didnt? The supertech valvesprings can handle a constant lift of 13.8mm, while supposedly the obx/skunk2 stage 2s have a maximum lift of 12.8mm on the intake cam, so I think the supertech valvetrain would be just fine for these cams. also, maybe a billet core would work, at least if it had a nitrite coating on the lobes, not just bare billet steel. The skunks appear to be exactly like the obx's, but they are not made out of billet, they are made from a chilled cast core.
and if you did more research, you would see that even people with the stage 1's were experiencing the exact same wear as mine, within the first 1000 miles. And for those of you refer to the user "matix" on HT, as being a success story with the obx cams, he was a big reason on why I went with the OBX cams, because he claimed to have gotten over 10k miles with no problems. But if you look him on honda-tech now, His OBX cams took a shit, and now he is going with some skunks or some crowers.
So regardless if you get obx stage 1s or 2s, I think the end result will be the same. It will just be a matter of time before it happens. You maybe right, in saying that the stage 2s will wear the rockers faster, which only makes sense with such high lift, but the stage 1s will do the exact same shit.
for those of you on a budget, I would suggest you check out the crower website, they are having a blowout sale on their honda cams. these cams are with their new core which is supposed to be 20% stronger than the oem cores. I personally picked up a set of crower stg2s for under 500, so you might wanna check that out if you are in penny pinch mode. Other than that, there is always the RM cams, which will have the reliabilty of OEM, since they are reground from the oem core for a very affordable price. or, you can even have Robert make a custom grind for you with any of the B series profiles for a H series cam. That is a little more expensive though.
bottom line, you get what you pay for. I should have kept this in mind before buying the OBX cams, regardless of any success story that was posted on teh internet. So do it right the first time, so you won't have to do it again. owell, you live and you learn.
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Originally posted by BB6>CB7Those pictures of are of my rockers.
1st, I did upgrade my valvetrain, I had supertech springs, retainers, and valves. So I don't know where you come off saying that I didnt? The supertech valvesprings can handle a constant lift of 13.8mm, while supposedly the obx/skunk2 stage 2s have a maximum lift of 12.8mm on the intake cam, so I think the supertech valvetrain would be just fine for these cams. also, maybe a billet core would work, at least if it had a nitrite coating on the lobes, not just bare billet steel. The skunks appear to be exactly like the obx's, but they are not made out of billet, they are made from a chilled cast core.
and if you did more research, you would see that even people with the stage 1's were experiencing the exact same wear as mine, within the first 1000 miles. And for those of you refer to the user "matix" on HT, as being a success story with the obx cams, he was a big reason on why I went with the OBX cams, because he claimed to have gotten over 10k miles with no problems. But if you look him on honda-tech now, His OBX cams took a shit, and now he is going with some skunks or some crowers.
So regardless if you get obx stage 1s or 2s, I think the end result will be the same. It will just be a matter of time before it happens. You maybe right, in saying that the stage 2s will wear the rockers faster, which only makes sense with such high lift, but the stage 1s will do the exact same shit.
for those of you on a budget, I would suggest you check out the crower website, they are having a blowout sale on their honda cams. these cams are with their new core which is supposed to be 20% stronger than the oem cores. I personally picked up a set of crower stg2s for under 500, so you might wanna check that out if you are in penny pinch mode. Other than that, there is always the RM cams, which will have the reliabilty of OEM, since they are reground from the oem core for a very affordable price. or, you can even have Robert make a custom grind for you with any of the B series profiles for a H series cam. That is a little more expensive though.
bottom line, you get what you pay for. I should have kept this in mind before buying the OBX cams, regardless of any success story that was posted on teh internet. So do it right the first time, so you won't have to do it again. owell, you live and you learn.
WOW his first post also i have to agreeLast edited by micksf22accord; 05-02-2005, 06:53 PM.
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^^^completely pointless^^^
my personal choice would be skunk2 stage 2 mainly coz i have my valvetrain upgraded already. but for regrinds, Web cams, or Rocket Motorsports would be my second choice. then again, the camshafts from KMS performance look good as well.5.6L V8 32V DOHC
JDM HERITAGE - US BUILT
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yeah..good looking out on posting joey. i didnt know your whole setup and i forgot to mention the crower sale...i know a few people i talk to online hopped on it though. well..waiting to see what someone has to say now about the OBX horror story and if he ran with some stage 1's and is having good results. im still sticking with a custom cam or regrinds from RM been on their forum and i see results from even mild cam options and they are more than accomidating for an interested buyer.
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im planning on going with a bullfrog cam but im not planning on revving higher than my stock redline. i should be okay right?
although my engine has quite a bit of miles but still runs very strong.
idk, obx and other stuff are more expensive. im getting this cam for only 80 bucks
OH SHIT, this topic is hella old...
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