My goal of 13s...

[91H22ACB7]

Goal is to dip into the 13s, even 13.99. Lol. On street tires.
Full interior, stock long block even cams.

Car weighed in at 3200 lbs with me in it.

91 Ex, full interior, gutted trunk, battery relocated to trunk.

H22a, Vega basemap, short ram intake, destroyed megan header, 2.5" greddy sp2 exhaust, gutted cat, non-lsd h trans.

Setup is going to change to some header with 3" collector and some tweaking, collector extension that tapers to 2.5" in place of cat. Change from 205/55 to 205/50 tires. Butterfly vavles are also being removed. I also will be throwing a tune ontop of all this.

Short ram maybe be replaced with a nicer 3" tube and a flow stack as well as a bored stock tb and matched intake opening.

With the current setup I saw 14.6 @ 94.6 mph with 2.2 60fts.

Then I'll go from there.

Anyone with suggestions or personal experiences?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Saidaigen8]

Traction bar and some good mounts.

[98vtec]

13.99 on street tires is going to take some work.

[91H22ACB7]

Traction bar and some good mounts.

Mounts are already taken care of, besides the torque mount which is coming my next day off.
I'm on the fence as far as a traction bar goes though, whether its really worth the money or not.

13.99 on street tires is going to take some work.

Yessir, I do believe with the right concoction of little things, I'll be able to manage it.

The big key will be in the tune.

The basemap I am on now is pretty rich as is.

[N9netwoAccord]

Rear suspension on full stiffness to hook up

Maxbore throttle body or I've seen some people running an S2000 throttle body? Intake manifold gasket.. just the two things I thought of off the top of my head

[TheNextAZN]

Camber Kit! lol.. Get those street tires planted flat! . some quick things would be good motor mounts(filled/solid if possible). oh and a quarter tank of gas.

[drummersteve7]

your going to need a better cam, to reach this goal.

[deevergote]

Maybe even two better cams




Right now, your weakest points are your gutted cat (creates turbulence, and therefore is more of a restriction than a proper free-flowing cat), that destroyed header (if it's as destroyed as I'm imagining... Megan doesn't do much for you anyway), and the basemap (as it's not tuned for YOUR engine... I assume this is on a P28 or P72?)

Also, I believe the GReddy SP2 is 60mm, which is roughly 2.36", not 2.5". I could be wrong, but most of the Japanese brand exhausts for our cars are 60mm to my knowledge. It's really not that big of a deal, honestly.


The first thing to address is the weight. You want to achieve your goal with a full interior, but what else could you eliminate? Do you have a functional AC system in the car? Do you WANT a functional AC system in the car? I know you can shave off a good deal of weight by removing every AC component (under the hood, behind the bumper, behind the dash.) Do you have power steering, and do you want it (this is minimal weight savings, and minimal parasitic drag... but every little bit counts.)
Removing those things wouldn't cost a dime,

Now, to the inexpensive modifications:
First, make sure the engine is healthy. Replace ignition components, clean EGR ports, make sure all sensors are fully functional (a new o2 sensor, if you haven't replaced it yet, could be smart... they can cause poor running conditions long before a CEL is thrown.)
What filter is on that SRI? If it's not a quality filter, you may benefit from K&N, AEM, or Apexi. The velocity stack is a good idea as well... at least from dynos I've seen.
A double-stacked plenum spacer would add a few hp.
An underdrive pulley set would free up a bit of power (though there are risks involved... I personally have never experienced any troubles with my UR crank pulley.) I would only get Unorthodox Racing parts, though... and if they no longer make the H22 crank pulley (I haven't looked in ages) then you'll want to buy used.
A traction bar would certainly help put the power to the ground, as would quality springs and shocks. I've had good results with my Koni Yellows when I stiffened the rear shocks as far as they would go, to prevent the car from squatting on the rear wheels during a launch. Anything that keeps the front wheels planted is to your benefit.

More expensive modifications:
Camshafts. A "level 1" setup from most popular companies would be possible without an expensive spring upgrade. Another option is H22 Type S cams.
Header - Bisimoto, SMSP, HyTech, Mugen... the gains given by headers of that caliber will be significant. Please don't buy from one of the ripoff artists that copy those designs... that only hurts the original designers, as well as the community as a whole.
ECU Tune - for optimal power production, you'll want a full tune on a dyno. That can get pricey, especially if you have to pay a tuner, as well as rent dyno time. Still, if you upgrade your cams and header, you should be able to pull a bit more power from the setup via the tune.
Stickier tires - Some nice sticky summer tires will work well. Since you're in Florida, you could probably run sticky tires all year round, as I doubt it dips below the tires' safe temperature range very often!

[91H22ACB7]

Rear suspension on full stiffness to hook up

Maxbore throttle body or I've seen some people running an S2000 throttle body? Intake manifold gasket.. just the two things I thought of off the top of my head

Suspension: check

I plan on sending a tb out to maxbore.
Heat shielding intake gasket is on my list as well


Wow Deev, thanks for the awesome response.

The cat, header and tune are being replaced as stated in my first post.
Ac is complete, not in working condition, I'm hesitant of removing it all regarding when my promotion comes at work, which may be next year, so its stayin, which means accord stays dd and get ac finished.
The power steering pump is currently not installed.
The engine has been maintained well, just needs new plug wires. Fuel filter, cap/rotor, plugs have all been changed
Egr is blocked off.

All sensors are go, basemap doesn't read 02, but a good one is in there.
Like I said, a traction bar I'm on the fence about, ill talk to my fab guy about prices.

As far as shock and struts go, I'm running on the infamous set of omnipower coils w/ extended tophats. Rear preload set marginally high. As well as the car is bull dogging.

The tires I most likely will be running are another set of primewell pz900, 205/50 vs 205/55.
They are a summer tire, 280 treadwear, they may be cheap, but I am very happy with my current set.

Cams, like I said I'm trying to reach this goal without opening up the motor.

[cloudasc]

If your not going to cam, and you don't wanna tear the motor apart, the only thing I could recommend would be to hook up some laughing gas with those lofty goals, either that or shed weight if your not going to get your camshafts reground; I believe a stage one cam for an h22 the only lobe that gets modified is the one for vtec.

[Flatline]

Joe, you dropped almost an entire second with only an H trans and a basemap really compared to when i ran it at PBIR. not much else is significantly different.

i say, new header/cat, camber kit, tune, and little bit of those hopes and dreams and your there.

only a couple people here know about this animal first hand.

and a double-stacked plenum is gonna move your power-band down a little i'd gut it like you want or even dremel it out like Oscar and Jose did. that'll give you more top end and pull a little bit of tq higher. that could keep you from spinning off the line.

with some tweaking and a tune, you got this man.

[deevergote]

You don't have to open the motor to install a cam... just the valve cover. Especially if you're installing a mild cam that can work with the stock valvesprings. Installation is relatively easy.

[91H22ACB7]

You don't have to open the motor to install a cam... just the valve cover. Especially if you're installing a mild cam that can work with the stock valvesprings. Installation is relatively easy.

That has nothing to do with it, I've built a few motors in my time.

Joe, you dropped almost an entire second with only an H trans and a basemap really compared to when i ran it at PBIR. not much else is significantly different.

i say, new header/cat, camber kit, tune, and little bit of those hopes and dreams and your there.

only a couple people here know about this animal first hand.

and a double-stacked plenum is gonna move your power-band down a little i'd gut it like you want or even dremel it out like Oscar and Jose did. that'll give you more top end and pull a little bit of tq higher. that could keep you from spinning off the line.

with some tweaking and a tune, you got this man.

Well, I know the butterfly valves are coming out, as far as milling out the spacer, well see about that.
I seem to have the front height perfect for the camber curve, I do need to get some video. None of those 2.2 launchs had any wheelspin though.

[Flatline]

well if you give me some advance notice that your going i can try to swing it and ride along. ive got the cam ready for anything lol

[h22sparkle]

Your going thirteens with that and a traction bar. That traction bar had better be comfortable because it will ride really stiff for a daily driver. take that into consideration before you do it. I personally would juice her up rather than boost her and use it with a progressive kit like zex.