CyborgGT: Mild H22A Build

[CyborgGT]

1997 H22A (closed deck)

First off, here are the sites I found the best deals at, for those wanting to shop around for savings...

> Euro Export Inc.
> Explicit Speed Performance
> HELM Inc.
> H Motors Online
> Import Replacement Parts
> JHPUSA
> Kteller
> Majestic Honda (OEM parts)
> Race Engineering
> Real St. Performance
> Summit Racing

And of course it never hurts to check those prices against eBay; just be sure to match part numbers and look into the seller's reviews and reputation for not selling knock-offs.



ELECTRONICS

- Hondata S300; Phearable base map for start-up
- RyWire VTEC sub-harness
- AEM gauges: UEGO, EGT, oil press., fuel press. (still plan to get oil temp)
*Future custom dash gauge cluster to include volts & oil temp; that whole set will be by one, different, brand*
.

AIR + FUEL

- K&N Apollo intake system for 70mm pipe
- AEM 70mm OD aluminum tubing for custom intake
- Professional Products 68mm Power throttle body for ITR, polished
- H22 Euro-R/Type-R intake manifold prepped by Rosko Racing (68mm port match)
- Hondata thermal intake manifold gasket

- Walbro 255lph pump w/install kit
- Rosko Racing rail
- Acura RDX 410cc OE injectors & pigtails
- AEM pressure regulator
.

HEAD

- Ishino/Stone (OEM) top-end gasket set
- ARP head studs
- Supertech machine hardened valve locks
- Supertech titanium spring retainers
- Supertech 79lb valve springs
- Supertech valve seals
- GSC Power-Division valve guides (Supertechs weren't gripping the seals well)
- Supertech black nitrided dish valves
- New OEM valve spring seats
- Skunk2 Pro 2 cams
- Skunk2 Pro Black Series cam gears
- OEM manual timing tensioner conversion kit
- Skunk2 cam seal
- Skunk2 "Skunk2 Inside" VTEC solenoid cover
.

BLOCK

- Fel-Pro complete bottom-end gasket set
- Wiseco 11.5:1 pistons (re-sleeve, of course; one of my stock bores was scratched)
- Eagle H-beam rods
- ARP main studs
- ATI street damper
- KS Tuned manual timing tensioner & Walk Blocker
- K-Tuned oil pressure sensor adapter (to 'T' in oil psi gauge)
- S2000 oil filters (part no. 15400-PCX-004)
- ESP traction bar
.

EXHAUST
*I have a Spoon header that I'd like to compare to the PLM below on the dyno, but since it bolts to the stock downpipe, I'm thinking of having a full custom downpipe made rather than cobbling together a 2.5" collector conversion on the stock dp. We'll see how that works out in terms of timing; it may or may not happen right away, but I do want to see how the headers compare. Also, I am aware that the KTeller exhaust kit is for the sedan/coupe with its more inset muffler location. I actually prefer the look of that, so rather than modify it to fit the wagon location, I will be swapping a coupe/sedan rear lip onto the wagon.

Short version: exhaust is 2.5" from header to just before the first 90* bend, where it steps up to 3" to maintain flow.

- PLM 4-2-1 header
- Vibrant 1197 EGT bung, stainless
- Vibrant 10355 merge collector, stainless 2.5"
- Vibrant 60804 "turbo" flex pipe, stainless 2.5"
- Vibrant 1194A O2 sensor bung x2, stainless
- Vibrant U-J scrap bends, stainless 2.5"
- Summit Racing 4' scrap straight, stainless 2.5"
- Catco 6906 cat, stainless 2.5"
- Vibrant 2.5" bottle resonator x2
- Summit Racing 2.5" V-band connections x3
- Vibrant 2630 2.5"-to-3" transition (exhaust expands to 3" just before the first 90* bend to keep flow up)
- Kteller 3" stainless/mandrel piping
- Vibrant Street Power muffler, 3" in/dual 3.5" out
.

[CyborgGT]

Skool'd

Some stuff I found in my research, maybe it'll save future searchers some time. This is just info I've found that seems to agree with my logic and experience, so only use it as a stepping stone in your own reading. It comes with the territory of internet research that you'll want to find as many opinions as possible on any given subject that you can then pick apart to find where they agree - that's where the truth lies. Reading into one subject often triggers an idea or sparks interest in something more specific, which looking into might give you yet another perspective on that original subject. So don't take this as a one-stop shop, and always fact check!

The Internet Gurus...

General info & advice for NA builds - a lot of this will cross over into boost builds as well.

> AutoZine Technical School - covers every aspect of a car; very technical info
> Honda-Tech - N/A overview

> 98vtec Q&A
> accorn's build thread
> K1 Attack kit car owner using H22 power, discussing build tech

> Old CB7T header science talk
> Intake resonance science
> OEM H-series intake manifold options - the Euro-R is NOT the only one worth considering!
> The Magical Myth of Flowbench-Porting - see post #13
> Intake & Exhaust Size - Enginology by Hot Rod Network
> Header-Exhaust Design Effects on Engine Power - the science behind specific header and exhaust system design features
> Aluminum - why it should not be used in an exhaust system
> Exhaust Gast Temperature explained (related: EGT sensor placement if you're only using one probe)

> C.O.P. - some talk on ECU compatibility
> Professional Mil-Spec Motorsport ECU Wiring Harness Construction
> Spark plug basics - by NGK; function as well as temperature choice
- > Second opinion on plug & wire choice from experienced mechanic and racer

> Fuel injector sizing - calculating injector flow needs for your power goals
> Can titanium retainers handle street/daily kinds of mileage? - S2Ki forum talk
> How to degree camshafts - this is especially important if either head gasket surface (head or block) has been machined, or if the head gasket is of a different thickness from stock, since they alter the distance between the cam and crank gears, affecting the timing.

> Crankshaft lubrication
> An argument for ATI / do NOT use billet pulleys!
> An argument for Fluidampr over ATI - not that Fluidampr makes an H22 pulley anymore, but here you have it
> Interview with guys from ATI and Fluidampr
> Setting piston ring gap - by Wiseco
> Initial engine break-in/piston ring seating - article sponsored by JE Pistons
> Initial engine break-in/piston ring seating - article written with help from ATK High Performance Engines and Summit Racing
> Crank case ventilation - The importance of using a catch can system

> Micrometers - a machinist's opinion on recommended mics and calipers

> Visual tire size calculator - I just really like this one, so I wanted to share...

On Honda FRM sleeves...

HondaTuning article.

On Darton H22 sleeves...

When you sleeve a H22 block whether it is closed or open the sleeves are the same. Depending on how much power you plan on making and how big a bore size you are going to run will determine which sleeve you will use.

If you have the H22a/a1 closed deck block and this is going to be a strip/street motor you can use the 300-018 sleeves for stock bore size. If you plan on building a straight drag motor and going with a large bore then you would use the MID sleeves.

There are actually 3 different sleeves for the H22 blocks:

1. Repair sleeve 200-018. This is a straight sleeve primairly used for stock applications or to repair the block.

2. Flanged sleeve 300-018. This is a flanged sleeve with a lip at the top so the sleeves registers at the top for added support. This sleeve is good for mild horsepower builds street/strip.

3. MID 400-160-P. This is our phosphate coated MID wet sleeve. This is the top of the line sleeve that will handle anything you throw at it. Since it is a wet sleeve the sleeves are completely replaceable one at a time or all four at a time using the same block. This allows you to use the same block over and over again. The sleeve is also phosphate coated to help with anit-rust and anti-corrosion in the water jacket area.

source

On my choice of exhaust size...

I'm afraid of going full 3" and it making the car super loud, but I've also heard that "everything after the header is a restriction," so it sounded like the best compromise to start out at 2.5" and then open it up to 3" further down the system. Putting the diameter step right before the bends around the gas tank made the most sense, so I posed the question of its effects on actual performance...

The 2.5" straight section will keep the exhaust pulses close together which is better for scavenging but a 2.5" bend will not flow the same as a 2.5" straight pipe. The 3" starting at the bends allows for less restriction which helps against back pressure or reversion which will kill the scavenging effect. As far as it being loud, changing the rear section to 3" will deepen the exhaust note which can cause droning. Look into the 3" inlet world sport muffler, its much quieter and flows similar to the vibrant.

Wanting a Euro-R intake manifold? Looks like your only option is sourcing one second-hand...

Conversation at Prelude Power:

Apex1972, Jan 4, 2013:
Is there any problem with availability on the euro r at this time?

Rosko, Feb 21, 2013:
Yeah, I've been waiting on an order since October, should be here soon but all are spoken for already. Another shipment is supposedly coming in several weeks behind that one but who knows. I deffinately cannot get as many as I would like.

CyborgGT, Dec 30, 2014:
^ Same question, but more up-to-date? Just want to make sure that "back order" notice [at RoskoRacing.com] is looked after.

Rosko, Dec 30, 2014:
I received 6 in the months shortly after that post and have not been able to get any since. I spoke with Steve spring of 2014 and told him to order 6 more for me, he said 2-3 months and I said OK get them coming. I pass this info on to my customers, some gave money up front and others waited patiently. After about 3 months I had not heard anything yet and gave him a call to find out that nothing had been ordered. I pretty much gave up after that and refunded my customers money or set them up with something else. I'm not sure what the deal is to be honest, but I couldn't keep promising my customers a date knowing that date was going to come and go. Everything about getting these over the past few years has been a struggle and even though my customers have been patient it always (in my eyes) makes me look like a dick. I can't do business like that. I don't want to have to call and check in every week and keep nagging on a company to get me what I need. If you tell me something will be here then make damn sure it is. 1 month always turns into 3-4 and finally I had enough. Sadly there aren't any other companies that import these (at least that I know of), there are a few that advertise them but I think what I figured out is that they just source them from H motors as well.

I still offer the same services if you are able to source your own, and I still produce all the a parts but from here on out I don't expect to ever stock these again.

There are other options though. I've developed an alternative over the past few years and that is the fabbed upper plenum and modified lower. These have proven to be the better option and I highly suggest you check those out if you haven't already.

source

Ideas in making a Bisimoto header less 'drag strip only', this would be worth testing for substance...

24" is about the right length for a stock camshaft profile if I recall correctly. I'll have to read through my emails with Ghost to find out for sure. The biggest problem with that header design is that it's a 4-1; without secondaries, you're losing a LOT of mid-range torque. Not really a problem with an engine that is really only for drag racing, but below 4500rpm, it's probably sacrificing a good 10-15lbs/ft of torque. Secondaries with a 10-12" length would do wonders for that header as they'll boost torque and not sacrifice top end in any way; pairing of the cylinders doesn't matter as much on a 4-cylinder as you may think, so pairing F and R tubes, rather than R and L, would probably be best packaging wise. From what I can tell, it probably has 1.75" diameter primaries, which probably helps with velocity with those tight bends right off the flange like that. Collector design plays a big part as well, the Bisi collector actually looked like a fairly decent design, although 2.5" at the collector's exit was probably sacrificing some velocity for volume. Definitely some design vs manufacturing compromises in the header, but nothing that can't be worked around. The upper portion is a pretty good start, adding some good 2-1 collectors off upper, 10-12" long 2" diameter secondaries dumping into a final 2.25" 2-1 collector and tapering up to 2.5" would net big mid-range gains over the original 4-1 single collector design. It won't be cheap or easy(due to packaging concerns, probably the reason for the single 4-1 collector in the first place), but would be a great way to have a quality header for under about $1000 all invested. Heat and velocity that far upstream in the exhaust system are your friend.

source

Can you use a USDM oil pump on a JDM block? I e-mailed the H22 specialists at KSTuned.com. As of 10.12.2017, Majestic Honda appears to only carry oil pumps for later fifth-gen Preludes...

All of the H22 oil pumps are interchangeable, USDM or JDM. The H22A4 pump is the cheapest from the dealer, and it has provisions for the OBD2 crank sensor's. We supply the USDM OBD2 H22A4 pump with our balance shaft eliminator/pump kit.

Thanks to jamin_jacob and RM Import Performance, here is a video on checking clearances for wear in your oil pump (specs given are for an F22A; double check specs for your own engine): https://www.facebook.com/NRLEengines...7099955142918/


Lost motion assemblies. I'd been reading about people having problems with OEM LMAs not being enough to handle larger aftermarket cams in the B-series engines. Skunk2 makes upgraded springs for the B, but not for the H, so I emailed them about reliably running the Pro 2 cams I had already purchased before hearing of this problem. They gave me this brief and to-the-point response. The general internet consensus, however, is to replace the LMAs whenever you change cams, so I'll be ordering new OEMs for mine to be safe...

"Yes, the OEM LMAs will work the the Pro2 cams."
- Douglas Haley @ Group A Engineering (Kraft Werks/Skunk2/Grams)

~ ~ ~

And some discussion on Honda's LMA design change, which for Preludes began with the '98 model year. Despite being a B-series thread, the part numbers in the link match up for Preludes at HondaAutomotiveParts.com):

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...-info-2312727/

- - - - -

My original question from way back, so the next few posts aren't confusing: I'm trying to do as thorough of research as possible before I start collecting parts to do an all-at-once NA build down the line. One specific part I've been looking at is Mahle's 11.5:1 piston. Has anyone with similar compression, teamed with aftermarket cams (thinking Bisi Lvl 2, so something with roughly that kind of lift), run into piston-to-valve clearance issues?

[jhondayaaj]

U should b ok. With that high compression and only the level 2, there shouldn't be any problems. As long as you don't mill the head.

[CyborgGT]

I read in HondaTuning of Crower Stage 3s creating issues with those pistons (taller springs and retainers were needed), so naturally I'm paranoid about any aftermarket lobes. Bisi 2s are supposed to be fairly mild though, I suppose. Thanks.

[Ghetto_CB7]

bisi lvl 2

I haven't looked at the specs on the bisi cam, but I would imagine they are around that of the s2 pro 1 series. There is one guy on here claiming to run those came with type s piston.

The type s piston have very shadow valve relief, so if his works I think you should be ok.

I don't know how far away this is but I will be keeping an eye on it if you are going with the bisi cam. For a while I have been fighting to decide between the s2p1 and bisi cams.

Bisi has a good track record with came, but they have not been proven, at least that I have seen, to make the power of the s2p1.

[CyborgGT]

No, it won't be for quite a while (I'm not touching a credit card, I save up for what I want). There are other areas of the car I want to take care of first. In the mean time, I don't think it's possible to do too much research. Except for the exhaust, I want to do an all-at-once build, collecting all the parts and setting them aside until that point when I can work on the motor and get it tuned in one fell swoop. Luckily there's a tuning shop in town with a ton of experience with Hondas. So far my plans for power delivery are as follows:

H22A
P28
Hondata S300

AEM short ram intake
Euro-R intake manifold
Bisimoto heat-shielding intake manifold gasket

Adjustable cam gears
Valve springs & titanium retainers
Bisimoto Level 2 cams
Mahle 11.5:1 pistons
Connecting rods
ARP head+main studs

Bisimoto header
Kteller 2.5" stainless steel CB Accord exhaust piping kit
Magnaflow 2.5" cat
Vibrant 2.5" Ultra Quiet resonator**
Magnaflow 2.5" stainless muffler

M2B4
Carbonetic carbon ATS 1.5-way LSD
Carbonetic 4.643 final drive gear set
Short shift

**Side story: I might go for two of these resonators. There's a 9091 coupe in town (guy's not on here), says he built his F to beat the diesel pickups on cruise night. Still not too quick, but his exhaust is loud as hell at WOT. I watched a car following him to record some pulls. A cop pulled out of a side street and got on his ass quick-like. Didn't pull him over, but I am definitely wanting to keep my presence to a minimum. I want a nice deep tone, but the volume at about 6.

The theme of my build is mild autocross/circuit racing abilities (under ~250whp) in a daily driver so I'm jumping around, doing 'phases' of a little power here, some handling improvements there, and general restorations along the way. A reliable motor is important, so it's getting strengthened whether it really needs it or not. I don't want to get too caught up in one aspect of the car for too long and get bored with it, hence the phases... honestly, I have a rough 'schedule of events' made up . It's a very long process, but I don't think I'll ever want to get rid of my Accord.

H-swap and springs/shocks this year, and try to get started on the exhaust by next Spring. Hopefully I'll have a better paying job by then as well and get the ball rolling faster.

[tgdrums1990]

No, it won't be for quite a while (I'm not touching a credit card, I save up for what I want). There are other areas of the car I want to take care of first. In the mean time, I don't think it's possible to do too much research. Except for the exhaust, I want to do an all-at-once build, collecting all the parts and setting them aside until that point when I can work on the motor and get it tuned in one fell swoop. Luckily there's a tuning shop in town with a ton of experience with Hondas. So far my plans for power delivery are as follows:

H22A
P28
Hondata S300

AEM short ram intake
Euro-R intake manifold
Bisimoto heat-shielding intake manifold gasket

Adjustable cam gears
Valve springs & titanium retainers
Bisimoto Level 2 cams
Mahle 11.5:1 pistons
Connecting rods
ARP head+main studs

Bisimoto header
Kteller 2.5" stainless steel CB Accord exhaust piping kit
Magnaflow 2.5" cat
Vibrant 2.5" Ultra Quiet resonator**
Magnaflow 2.5" stainless muffler

M2B4
Carbonetic carbon ATS 1.5-way LSD
Carbonetic 4.643 final drive gear set
Short shift

**Side story: I might go for two of these resonators. There's a 9091 coupe in town (guy's not on here), says he built his F to beat the diesel pickups on cruise night. Still not too quick, but his exhaust is loud as hell at WOT. I watched a car following him to record some pulls. A cop pulled out of a side street and got on his ass quick-like. Didn't pull him over, but I am definitely wanting to keep my presence to a minimum. I want a nice deep tone, but the volume at about 6.

The theme of my build is mild autocross/circuit racing abilities (under ~250whp) in a daily driver so I'm jumping around, doing 'phases' of a little power here, some handling improvements there, and general restorations along the way. A reliable motor is important, so it's getting strengthened whether it really needs it or not. I don't want to get too caught up in one aspect of the car for too long and get bored with it, hence the phases... honestly, I have a rough 'schedule of events' made up . It's a very long process, but I don't think I'll ever want to get rid of my Accord.

H-swap and springs/shocks this year, and try to get started on the exhaust by next Spring. Hopefully I'll have a better paying job by then as well and get the ball rolling faster.

An FYI since ur replacing the exaughst im def certain I read a post that the h22's respond to 3" exaughst gusse it was proven for like 7whp on dyno I thought. I cant find the page ... But since ur replacing the exaughst and going with ketteller exaughst system I reccomend the 3" unless of course it outragously spensive :P

[Straight Success]

PM me. I'm building NA.

[CyborgGT]

^^ The money I don't care about, it can be re-earned. I'm hesitant about 3 inches of exhaust because I don't want a really loud car. The book, Honda/Acura Engine Performance states that 2.5" is ideal for H22s, and I've read on here and in mag articles that 3" is better. Since I'm not trying to go all-out with horsepower I think I'll stick with 2.5.

[tgdrums1990]

^^ The money I don't care about, it can be re-earned. I'm hesitant about 3 inches of exhaust because I don't want a really loud car. The book, Honda/Acura Engine Performance states that 2.5" is ideal for H22s, and I've read on here and in mag articles that 3" is better. Since I'm not trying to go all-out with horsepower I think I'll stick with 2.5.

If you run a acual 3" cat and a quiet tip... It couldnt be much louder... Could it?

[CyborgGT]

Don't know. It seems to be a noticeable gain in noise just going from 2 to 2.5 though, based on most videos I've seen. And I really don't want my car to be loud.

[Ghetto_CB7]

3"

I Went from a 60mm to 3 inch and it was definetly louder. I am running one resonator and a baffled muffler, so it isn't too bad, but it is louder.

Also 3" has been shown to produce gains over 2.5" on the h22.

[CyborgGT]

H22A: Mild All-Motor Rebuild, Random Questions

*poof*

[bigpoppa694lyfe]

Since your doing an n/a build, you can get a thinner head gasket to give compression a slight bump... Throw in some cams, springs, and flat faced valves and you can have a great high comp brawler. All those things can be bought from Bisimoto.com for a relatively decent price. I strongly urge the use of head studs if your bumping compression. As for the rest of the gaskets, felpro should have a "conversion" set that contains all your bottom end gaskets and you can easily piece together the rest

[Joey GT-R]

I figure I'll definitely go to the dealer for a head gasket, but who do you guys trust for the rest... that doesn't charge like a dealer? Quality at a good price?

Send me a PM for what you need. I'll give you my price, which I believe is about 15%-20% off retail. Just pay for shipping.

Since your doing an n/a build, you can get a thinner head gasket to give compression a slight bump...

The risk/reward for that isn't worth it. The compression bump is very slight and hardly noticeable except on a dyno sheet. It's not worth the possibility of piston slap. 17.0:1 Pistons and everything else in between already exist for the H22, add in the flat faced valves and he's got another 0.5:1. Stick with the OEM and whatever compression he wants he can find with the appropriate piston set.