Mild H22 Build

[wagon.spec]

I've looked around but I can't find exactly what I'm trying to do.
I'm going N/A for now maybe we'll see boost in the future but it all depends on whether or not this reckless driving ticket sticks or if I can get out of it...
Any way I'm trying to build a reliable N/A H22 for a very streetable autocross car. I want to make somewhat decent power with a reliable motor. I DD the car so that's why. I was thinking just some head work, maybe some skunk2 stage 2 cams and valve springs. Maybe some higher comp pistons. I've already got the suspension where I want it so now it's just to get power. I guess I'm just looking for opinions. Thanks guys

[HappyGilmore]

I would say go with Bisi Stage 2 cams, that's what I am doing soon (when funds permit) I would say 300 WHP is a easy goal to obtain what you are looking for. I have read reviews on Skunk 2 and from hearsay they aren't that good. But just a suggestion I hope this helps.

[TuneAccordingly]

I would say go with Bisi Stage 2 cams, that's what I am doing soon (when funds permit) I would say 300 WHP is a easy goal to obtain what you are looking for. I have read reviews on Skunk 2 and from hearsay they aren't that good. But just a suggestion I hope this helps.

Really? Because I hear that the pro2's share a very similar design to the JUN 2's which are very good. In fact, they call the pro2's "poor man JUN's"

[Ghetto_CB7]

I've looked around but I can't find exactly what I'm trying to do.
I'm going N/A for now maybe we'll see boost in the future but it all depends on whether or not this reckless driving ticket sticks or if I can get out of it...
Any way I'm trying to build a reliable N/A H22 for a very streetable autocross car. I want to make somewhat decent power with a reliable motor. I DD the car so that's why. I was thinking just some head work, maybe some skunk2 stage 2 cams and valve springs. Maybe some higher comp pistons. I've already got the suspension where I want it so now it's just to get power. I guess I'm just looking for opinions. Thanks guys

You are very vague as to what you want out of the vehicle, in most autocross situations with our vehicles a stock h22 is enough power, higher focus on weight reduction and or better brake setup would be where I would spend the money.

I would say go with Bisi Stage 2 cams, that's what I am doing soon (when funds permit) I would say 300 WHP is a easy goal to obtain what you are looking for. I have read reviews on Skunk 2 and from hearsay they aren't that good. But just a suggestion I hope this helps.

300whp, easy... I don't know what you consider easy, but I think its pretty hard to do. First of all it is expensive, second of all it is hard to make it streetable.

Skunk 2 cams are one of the top sold cams for the h22 because they are shown to work. The pro 2 will not do you any good unless you are considerably above 12:1 CR

[Joey GT-R]

Ditto. If you already have the swap done. I would recommend some good coilovers or shocks/springs setup, a brake upgrade, and weight reduction if you desire. At the most, I would say do your basic bolt-ons and tune.

[CyborgGT]

...oooorrr, the guy wants more power and would like some suggestions instead of all this downer attitude . There are plenty of FF autocrossers out there that can blow a CB out of the water. Though anyone would agree more than about 260 or so horsepower is going to kill the handling of a front-drive car, especially one as old as our Accords. No trick Ford Focus RS differentials for us . Though, you do have the Prelude M2B4 LSD, right??? Or better yet, IIRC the LSD-equipped T2T4 from the F20B has slightly shorter gears.

Intake
3" intake pipe with a good filter (Apexi, AEM, K&N). Euro-R intake manifold; that's what I'm going with anyway, I haven't cared to look into any others. I've heard mixed reviews on the Skunk2 IM, and OEM is always good in my book. Heat-shielding intake gaskets are always smart, I believe Bisi offers one of those (if not, they're fairly abundant).

Exhaust
There's the cheap-o route with a DC/Greddy/etc header. Modify the collector to 2.25", 2.5", etc for a bit of power. For real gains, your best bet is probably the Bisi unit. The rest of the system isn't terribly important in terms of choices. Obviously straight-through mufflers are best to avoid back-pressure. Any mufflers/resonators with decent volume of actual sound-absorbing insulation are best if you want to keep the highway drone (and cop attention!) to a minimum. Magnaflow/Apexi... Vibrant's Ultra Quiet (or Super Quiet, whatever it's called) resonator looks very functional.

Cams
Bisi's level 1 and 2 street cams are supposed to have a very smooth, non-lopey idle, which makes for very streetable use. Springs and retainers are a must for any cam upgrade if you want it to last.

High Compression Pistons
I ordered some Honda Tuning back issues (my oh my, have trends changed since '06! ) and found an interesting article on these. Mahle's 11.5:1 hi-comp pistons are coated to be compatible with the H22's aluminum-carbon cylinders, so they're practically a direct replacement for the OE pistons: no sleeving is required. Sounds cool to me, so that's what I'm planning on. There's one other company that makes straight drop-in pistons for the H, but I can't remember their name off hand. Or if you're willing/wanting to re-sleeve your cylinders, you can pretty much go with anyone out there I would think. Arias is extremely popular. They offer high, mid and, I believe, low comp pistons for the H.

The HT guys had problems with a very lean mixture after installing the pistons, I'm not sure whether or not their badly worn engine was to blame. Problem solved with larger (470cc/min in their case) injectors.

... my mind's going blank now, sorry.

from hearsay they aren't that good

"Hearsay" means... talking out your ass, basically. Sorry to nit-pick

[Ghetto_CB7]

downer

I don't think anyone in this thread is being a downer.

More like realistic and honest. If someone came to you and said I want a reliable daily driver slalom car, and wanted to add more power.

You would hopefully tell them that you probably don't need more power for that vehicle application and to focus on weight reduction and suspension.

That is all I have seen happen in this thread.

If the op just wanted power, there are tons of threads on that, but he specifically says auto-cross. So I mentioned that unless it is a large auto-cross track that more power is probably not necessary especially with some weight reduction.

To the OP, just curious as to what suspension setup you are running?

also I agree completely with the person who mentioned tuning, getting a smoother torque curve is a huge benefit.

[CyborgGT]

But it's possible to add power and make it run reliably. Which is what the OP asked for. His wanted "somewhat decent power with a reliable motor" is very doable. Telling him to do what it sounds like he's already done (i.e. working on the handling) gets him nowhere.

[awolanin21]

If you are looking for just enough power to do well in the autocross then don't go to wild on performance.
Start with an 3" Intake, then get Your TB bored out and port matched to the IM, then also get the IM port matched to the head with a heat shielding intake gasket. Some mild head work including a pnp and a mild cam, then if you can get your crankshaft computer balanced. Maybe also consider loosing some rotational mass by eliminating the balance shaft found here http://www.kstuned.com/ . Of course the key part to this auto-cross build would be a good tune, make sure you find someone that really knows what they are doing!!

Goodluck!

[wagon.spec]

Right now suspension is Megan Racing 1.75 inch drop springs and a Progress Rear 22mm sway bar. Looking to get some new rims and get some 245s or so.

[charles.scarlet]

This seems one sided to me

...oooorrr, the guy wants more power and would like some suggestions instead of all this downer attitude . There are plenty of FF autocrossers out there that can blow a CB out of the water. Though anyone would agree more than about 260 or so horsepower is going to kill the handling of a front-drive car, especially one as old as our Accords. No trick Ford Focus RS differentials for us . Though, you do have the Prelude M2B4 LSD, right??? Or better yet, IIRC the LSD-equipped T2T4 from the F20B has slightly shorter gears.

Intake
3" intake pipe with a good filter (Apexi, AEM, K&N). Euro-R intake manifold; that's what I'm going with anyway, I haven't cared to look into any others. I've heard mixed reviews on the Skunk2 IM, and OEM is always good in my book. Heat-shielding intake gaskets are always smart, I believe Bisi offers one of those (if not, they're fairly abundant).

Exhaust
There's the cheap-o route with a DC/Greddy/etc header. Modify the collector to 2.25", 2.5", etc for a bit of power. For real gains, your best bet is probably the Bisi unit. The rest of the system isn't terribly important in terms of choices. Obviously straight-through mufflers are best to avoid back-pressure. Any mufflers/resonators with decent volume of actual sound-absorbing insulation are best if you want to keep the highway drone (and cop attention!) to a minimum. Magnaflow/Apexi... Vibrant's Ultra Quiet (or Super Quiet, whatever it's called) resonator looks very functional.

Cams
Bisi's level 1 and 2 street cams are supposed to have a very smooth, non-lopey idle, which makes for very streetable use. Springs and retainers are a must for any cam upgrade if you want it to last.

High Compression Pistons
I ordered some Honda Tuning back issues (my oh my, have trends changed since '06! ) and found an interesting article on these. Mahle's 11.5:1 hi-comp pistons are coated to be compatible with the H22's aluminum-carbon cylinders, so they're practically a direct replacement for the OE pistons: no sleeving is required. Sounds cool to me, so that's what I'm planning on. There's one other company that makes straight drop-in pistons for the H, but I can't remember their name off hand. Or if you're willing/wanting to re-sleeve your cylinders, you can pretty much go with anyone out there I would think. Arias is extremely popular. They offer high, mid and, I believe, low comp pistons for the H.

The HT guys had problems with a very lean mixture after installing the pistons, I'm not sure whether or not their badly worn engine was to blame. Problem solved with larger (470cc/min in their case) injectors.

... my mind's going blank now, sorry.



"Hearsay" means... talking out your ass, basically. Sorry to nit-pick

[98vtec]

300whp easy? man i wish it would have been easy.

[cb7_with_snail]

you realize you said n/a now and boost later right? thats 2 whole diffrent motor set ups. why dont you just choose one

[wagon.spec]

Oh I assure you that I understand you can't build a motor for both. I want a decent N/a build now, and if I do choose to go with f/i later on it will be on a new block. because if/when I decide to go turbo, I'm going to want it to be a safe build. I would do low comp pistons,nice rods, turbo cams, and what not to put down decent power with a conservative street tune. But "also I agree completely with the person who mentioned tuning, getting a smoother torque curve is a huge benefit. " does bring up a good point.
I'll research and look into everything mentioned thusfar and see what is doable cost wise and what not. And I believe a few people mentioned weight reduction... I'll most likely do things like seats, trunk gut,etc. I'm trying to keep the car decent looking on the inside. Besides I thought my rust spot was enough weight reduction?

[wagon.spec]

I was reading about using an f22 crank in an h22 also. opinions?