what kind of all motor h22 setups are there

[98vtec]

the best advice i can give you is to only take advice from people who have done it. Give frank at pocket rockets a call.

[robert@bisimoto]

raise the compression, and get some pro2 cams. I Highly doubt you'll make 250whp on stock cams, or even pro1's for that matter.

A pro2 cam will not get to you 250 whp. A bisimoto stage 3 cam will put you close to your goal, assuming you have increased your compression.

[98vtec]

A pro2 cam will not get to you 250 whp. A bisimoto stage 3 cam will put you close to your goal, assuming you have increased your compression.

that seems like a pretty presumptuous claim there robert....

I bet i could have gotten pretty close to 250 if i would have ran pro2's on my old setup.

[ZeRoCooLCB7R]

what kind of all motor h22 setups are there

I've seen one setup this year putting down close to 250whp. It had a special adapter that mount the K20 intake manifold. It was an H2B hatch from Paris Engine Dynamics here in cali.

[carps_accord]

hi folks, thank you for all the input it's awesome. so far iv'e come up with a new plan..basically im going to take a look at my bottom end and if it still good ill probably leave it be..probably re balance everything and possibly just getting type s piston that are to spec with the stock bore size of the h22a..
i'd like to bump up my compression without boring my block...that is unless i can find a place who can bore frm blocks. i'm trying to decifer a new oem head gasket or one which may help me increase compression..ill have to look at my options..and after that iv'e pretty much decided that bisimoto parts will inhabit the top end

[GreenMadness]

May i ask how you came to that number? I am curious because i personally didn't have much experince with engines when i first came to this site, and over the years the # i considered to be a "fun" or "quick" car has steadily gone down with experiance.

Originally i thought it was all about the numbers.... you soon learn its about the package, an engine that is easy to drive, has exceptional throttle response and a very smooth increassing pull without blowing your ear drums out is something that will really make you smile.

I orignally looked at the stock F22a6 rating ~ 140hp and thought well hell its not fast at all so i would need like at least 240hp to make the car move, and thats what i started looking for.

after experianceing my friends 400+ hp boosted civic i knew i did NOT want boost nor did i want to try and push 400hp through a honda and to the road. This was the start of my journey to the race track where i started to learn what a driver considers to be a strong, or "good" engine.

It was at the race track i learned drivers want an engine they can feel comfortable using, they want it to be very responsive so that the driver reaction time is the only delay. they also want it to be predictable and pull steady, an engine that has large jumps in power or torque makes the car very hard to consitintly drive fast.

then i looked as to how they accomplished finding these engines, and it almost always ended up with a stock-ish engine with lots of lightend components. Normally little is done internally, unless its matching compression to a cam. and mostly oem parts unless its actually benifical to replace it.

So in my quest i ended at an H22a, short intake, hondata intake gasket, no powersteering, no ac, no balance shaft belt, dc header to an open resonator (No exhuast), chipped ecu, bisimoto lightend flywheel and ACT clutch, H23 tranny.

the car is fast i want a little more but its very pleasing... i can run even with a 165whp civic that is bare... not saying much but for an old accord its just fine.

[rgsh22accord]

A pro2 cam will not get to you 250 whp. A bisimoto stage 3 cam will put you close to your goal, assuming you have increased your compression.

a skunk pro2 cam will get you close enough assuming that u have bumped your compression up 2 atleast 12.5 to get good power out of a pro2 cam. but one has ever posted a dyno on what a bisi cam will do a an h22 to compare the power gains over the 2 cams.

[98vtec]

a skunk pro2 cam will get you close enough assuming that u have bumped your compression up 2 atleast 12.5 to get good power out of a pro2 cam. but one has ever posted a dyno on what a bisi cam will do a an h22 to compare the power gains over the 2 cams.

you dont need 12.5 compression to make power with a pro2. Stock compression h22a and pro2's will make more power than pro1, you just wont be utilizing the valve lift profile to its greatest extent.

regardless, claiming that a pro2 will not take you to 250whp is a complete and utter lie to steer you towards a cam that has had ZERO documentation.

[PR CB7]

no replacement for displacement

easiest, thing you could do is
f22 crank and rods

even w stock jdm h22 pistons you'll already be at 11.6 on a stock HG and youll have a 2.3

[civic_90_08]

I was thinking about doing the F22/H23 rod and crank deal for mine...but theres 2 things that are holding me back...

H22A TypeS pistons and my Blox type B cams. The piston-to-deck height will be 0.020in. The static compression ratio will be 12.11:1 and the effective compression ratio will be 11.93:1. I just wonder how the piston-to-valve clearance will be with the Type B cams with a Intake (lift / duration) 12.8mm / 272 and the Exhaust being (lift / duration) 11.9mm / 280

I'm not trying to mess up my engine to find out...
-Jordan

[Joey GT-R]

I'm looking at similar options. I was told by a lude guy that Type-S internals with an F23 crank make 13.0 C/R. Only thing is, I already have a Type S and am making 11-11.2 C/R bone stock. So what are my options? Which crank is best for me? I do plan on getting Mahle Pistons somewhere down the road, and I'm not too cheap that I can't just go out and get some Eagle Rods. And I was considering depending on the price calling up Crower and seeing if they would give me that crank from their stroker kit individually. I do plan on running Bisimoto Stage 3s as early as this tax season so I will definitely keep you updated on the numbers after a tune.

[DJ metadelic]

forged internals, the brainwork, and a lot of money