oh yea, I don't know if it is cause I milled the head .020 but my compression number are fantastic! It used to test at 215psi ( I don't know why). after the cams it is still over 200. A friend used my gage on his motor and it showed the same number that other compression gages show and what his motor is supposed to have so I think it is right.
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spin city -
The high compression numbers are because you are running a stock regrind. You never changed the overlap, which is the primary contributor to lower compression numbers on a cammed motor.Originally posted by sweet91accordComment
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Good info guys. Makes me love my F series that much more!
**Blk Housed Slut Crew Member #1**
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Da Drizzle's Sedan - Dr. Diy's Blk Housed Thread
'90 2Tone Coupe-Car Heaven_'89 Lude-Junk Yard
Mostly Usdm, some Jdm,Edm,&Puerto Rican RICEComment
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the overlap increased, the cam lobe centerline is in the same spot but this cam has a good bit more duration, and there fore it also must have more overlap. I have it tuned decently once again, and Ive done some wot pulls. I can't wait to get this thing on a dyno and play with the ignition maps.spin cityComment
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Not by a significant enough amount to considerably change your compression results.Originally posted by dbsharp
Looking forward to numbers!Originally posted by sweet91accordComment
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well the lift changed dramatically and so did the duration, so I don't see why the overlap wouldn't also increase.spin cityComment
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I was mistaken when I said no overlap increase, but as I said in my post, it's not enough to considerably lower compression numbers. I'm sure your milled head also helps.Originally posted by dbsharpOriginally posted by sweet91accordComment
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The idle control valve has been humming recently, and today it started revving and I got a code for it. I got 11.3 volts at the idle valve ignition on motor off, resistance is 14.5. I have thought that maybe this was acting up for a while now. I took off my throttle body again, and took a wire brush to it to get it even cleaner than before. It almoast idles now. I'm considering drilling the hole that leads into the chamber (from the intake) with the adjustment screw in it a little bigger. Anyone see any problem that might occur from doing this? A slightly larger hole should flow a little more air, and if it is too much then I could just screw the idle adjustment screw in to limit it.spin cityComment
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I got a new idle control valve from a junkyard today and it is acting just like the old one, it idles at 750 once it is warm!!! I wonder if this could be ecu related. the idle screw almoast idles the car now, it will idle for a few seconds before it chokes out! so it is close. I had the coolant lines off of the idle control valve, tonight I'm going to get some tubing and hook it back up to the coolant lines. when I took the coolant lines off, it started acting a little different, I specifically remember this. maybe the unit needs to be at the temp of the coolant to function optimally.spin cityComment
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For some dam reason my tune is super lean at night!!! I hate it. While cruising, when I turn on the headlights, it leans out 2 afr's! The only thing that changes in my data logging is eld reading. this is pissing me off. I am going to spend all day tomorrow tuning my car, since it seams FINE during the day and crappy at night. thank god for the O2 sensor, I can plug up one wire and keep it right where it need to be. I'm putting the heater hose back on the IACV to see if it helps my issue of not being able to get the idle to act like it should be.spin cityComment
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Check your idle air valve. They have a large problem trying to get the idle right when you run big cams on a nonvtec car. It's easiest just to block it off.Comment
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yea, I would but it wont idle without the idle control valve. I did some wot tuning tonight. this thing definantly picked up some power. I think I am around 90% duty cycle maybe a little above at 6-7k. I had to pull about 2 degrees of ignition around the power band to get rid of pinging. DET CAN FOR THE WIN. I'm running on 93 octane gas. I don't think I have anymore detonation, but I haven't checked the plugs for it yet. I still have the thing die occasionally when the idle is bouncing around, which is better now than it was. idle is still at 750 no matter what I do. I have no problem in braking with this car at all. I don't think anymore cam would benefit this motor in this particular build. I do have my eye out for a h22 short block though. It would be a cheep way to get higher compression and extended rev range. I don't know how well the h23 head would match it but I bet it woulden't be too far off. I would like to have a little more power, but I got about what I expected I would on the butt dyno. Now to fix my issues and get this thing dyno tuned. I have a thread on pgmfi that no one has responded to yet that has my bin attached if anyone wants it, or if the more experienced tuners on here could look at it, I would appreciate any and all input.
the thread. here
ps My boss recommended that I use a fogger to look for vacuum leaks, so I'm going to get some dry ice and a cup of water and make one.spin cityComment
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this is a nice build you have going, i will be watching the progress on this religously.
"Self Renewed"Comment
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thanks. I am almoast convinced that I have a problem with the fuel pump or a circuit for it. My afr's just vary too much. I don't know if this is related to my idle issue but It would explain why my afr's vary from 12.5 to 15 at idle. I have spent a lot of time tuning idle, and it is never consistent, the same is true for the rest of the map. I will get afr's close, then make small changes and log and then later everything changes, sometimes it is lean sometimes its rich. I might start examining the fuel circuit tomorrow. If that isn't it I will look into getting something to monitor my fuel pressure. If I can't figure it out, I am just going to spend the money to get some help.Last edited by dbsharp; 05-25-2008, 04:18 PM.spin cityComment
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dam police. Got a ticket for speeding while tuning my car today. 70 in a 45. just to make the deal sweet, he threw in reckless driving, and an out of date inspection charge. I wish it had been a normal cop, the highway patrol are dicks. The crappy thing is that I was tunning in the safest place I possibly could have. 4 lane road with no traffic on my side of the road, its straight for about a mile, only 2 cars about 1/2 mile ahead of me in the oncoming lanes one was the cop. I was only speeding for about 20 seconds too. I have a feeling this is gonna cost me at least as much a as dyno tuning session would have.spin cityComment
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