Puting together a dsm turbo

[Fr0z3N]

What parts do I need and how much should I expect to pay, I know I need the following, I'm looking to put together the cheapest turbo possible without skimping on parts ie buying used parts off ppl here or on other forums.

Turbo
Turbo Manifold
Wastegate
Blow-off valve
450cc Fuel Injectors
Boost controller
Fuel management
Intercooler
Piping
Oil lines for the turbo
Boost gauge
Air filter

What did your turbo setup cost you?

[bresk8r87]

What parts do I need and how much should I expect to pay, I know I need the following, I'm looking to put together the cheapest turbo possible without skimping on parts ie buying used parts off ppl here or on other forums.

Turbo-100-200 used
Turbo Manifold- 50-150 bucks
Blow-off valve- 50-150
450cc Fuel Injectors- ~50
Boost controller- 30
Chipped Ecu, Chipping supplies- ~120
Intercooler-~100
Piping~100 for a universal kit,
Oil lines for the turbo- expect to pay around 80
Boost gauge- 30
Air filter-10

What did your turbo setup cost you?

in the end, for a decent setup, expect to pay around 850-1100 bucks? ive lost track of how much mine has run but id say around 1000 greenbacks is a safe estimate.

you wont need a boost controller or a wastegate with a dsm, since the turbos are all internally wastegated and the stock wastegate is set at ~8psi, and you dont need to run anymore than that on stock internals really... other than that, i think you nailed it,

get silicone couplers and t-bolts for the piping....

get a chipped ecu to tune (p06+ chipping supplies, chip, datalog cable and burner...get them at moates.net), the ecu should run you a little less than a SAFC, and is MUCH cheaper and easier than a standalone. get a wideband o2 as well instead of fuel mgmt, as you can use uberdata for free and tune with that, alot of people on here are... you just need to keep an eye on AF ratios

you can either get a turbo timer or just run the coolant jacket as well to help your snail keep cool....


hope this helps, and if you need a deal on a turbo, ive got a 13g if you want it...

[Fr0z3N]

Sounds good, can you tell me the difference between 13g 14g 16g turbos and try and explain as much as you can because this is my first car and I love it lol :P

Edit: what about the prices of everything seperatly? because if I do this it's gunna be part by part till I have everything, then install it all at once and suprise my friends with a turbo setup hehe.

[bresk8r87]

13 g (td04) is the smaller of the 3...it was used in the 1st generation eclipses equipped with auto transmissions... i believe they were smaller to give the car the illusion of having more torque due to the quicker spool up rate...

the 14b (TD05h) was used in the eclipses with 5sp manual trannys...its slightly bigger than the 13g so you get more top end...but its still relatively small in the turbo world...

16g is a slightly bigger...i think it was used on later model eclipses? dont quote me on that....i believe a version of it is used on the evo's these days...

anyways, theyre all internally gated DSM turbos, meaning they all have wastegates...they are all interchangable on DSM manifolds, they just give you different compressor maps due to turbine sizes...i believe the compressor housings are pretty much the same unless you go big 16g....

basically,

13g- quick spool in the low end, not so much up top
14b- little better power band, slightly slower spool, slightly stronger in the upper rpms
16g- slightly slower spool rate, makes more power up top

see previous post for rough price quotes

[Fr0z3N]

How much are you asking for the 13g? Also what tells how much psi a turbo can run?

[bresk8r87]

a turbo can run a wide range of psi...its just the size that determines how consistently... 14bs and 13gs usually top out at about 10psi before they become less efficent, since they get so f'in hot...larger turbos, and ones with water jackets to keep the bearing cool, or ball bearings (like mrx's) are more efficient at high psi...but the reason DSMs are set at 8 is thats a safe number to run on our stock internals without blowing up your piston rings or grenading your engine...

you could run a boost controller on a dsm and run 10-12 psi, but i wouldnt advise it without building your block first (pistons, rods, etc) to handle the added boost... 8psi is a nice number, i know 92ex, accordr33, and many others on this site are hitting ~200 whp on the 14b at only 8psi... a boost controller simply tricks the wastegate by bleeding off some of the boost signal at a set rate (you want to run 10, it bleeds off 2 psi before it opens...)

btw, im asking about 150 shipped for the 13g, i can send you pics of it, and im in florida, so shipping to canada will be pricey anyhow

[Fr0z3N]

Ok thanks for the info, from your experience what should I do before I go turbo? Or what order should I buy the parts, I'm thinking I miight not go turbo for atleast a year because I have about everything so far paid for but I'm gunna have to pay $500 for body work and I don't have a job blah blah long story, basically when I get back home end of summer I'm looking for a job and they I can start paying off parents and saving up. Also I'll probably get a boost controller just so I can control it either way and be safe. I don't think I'll be buying your turbo (money issue) but I'd like to see pics anyway. Also I just got a new flex pipe cost like $300 and I don't wanna hack it up just yet or anything.

[bresk8r87]

replace your headgasket, compression check, colder plugs, various maintenance... make sure the engine is running strong before you decide to put extra strain on it...and fill your motor mounts since youll lose the front in the install...

and a boost controller cant lower boost, only raise it...you need to bend the wg arm to lower boost...fyi

best of luck to ya man

[Fr0z3N]

replace your headgasket, compression check, colder plugs, various maintenance... make sure the engine is running strong before you decide to put extra strain on it...and fill your motor mounts since youll lose the front in the install...

and a boost controller cant lower boost, only raise it...you need to bend the wg arm to lower boost...fyi

best of luck to ya man

I've replaced the valve cover gasket seals, ngk platinum plugs, I compression checked at 190 190 200 200, what do you mean fill my motor mounts? Yeah I guess I won't get a boost controller, more money in my pocket.

[NAiL05]

A boost controller can lower boost...Filling the mounts with polyurethane wil make your mounts stiff as fuck and prevent engine movement. Also your car will vibrate a lil more because its stiffer. But BC will allow you to adjust boost. You can lower and raise I suggest gettin an electronic one. Manual is a biatch.

[Fr0z3N]

Is there any specific order I should buy the parts in?

[90EX]

I would stay away from these turbos...(14b/13g/t25/) Big 16 and up or get a t3 from a thunderbird. t3 60/63 hits full boost around 3200rpm and pulls to redline. If i were you, I would want a turbo that will spool up late. I assume its going to be a daily driver. RHB6..perhaps?

[Boost_Lee]

boost controllers can only be set as low as your waste gate actuator...

i vote 16g if you wanna stay cheap

[Fr0z3N]

Yes it's gunna be my daily driver, but I wanna keep it as cheap and simple as possible. What are the pros and cons of the turbo's you guys are talking about?

[NAiL05]

boost controllers can only be set as low as your waste gate actuator...

i vote 16g if you wanna stay cheap

What he said ^^ I knew I forgot to mention something...Oh well.