Red Hot Manifold?

[oneoffaccord]

im wasnt looking to boost at all. more like trying to understand how the afc work and how he had it setup wise. i have a boost gauge so i can see how many lbs im running. i wasnt even paying anymind to it at all.

[d112crzy]

well then my guess is that you WERE in boost, therefore the manifold got a bit hot due to the super high exhust gases, which those were due to super lean conditions.

[KillerCam282]

well then my guess is that you WERE in boost, therefore the manifold got a bit hot due to the super high exhust gases, which those were due to super lean conditions.

x2 For N/A to make that kind of heat, it takes alot of crappy tuning.

[maroonaccord2.2]

i did do my research but not clearly enough until now. and no i didnot know that lean conditions where bad when boost.

d112crzy knows his stuff, how could you not know that it's not good to run lean when boosting.... You're liable to grenade your motor if you're not careful.

Anyhow, good luck with your tuning!

[iamanonymous]

first, the manifold. i own one. it's not that. unless, of course somebody welded it shut befor the wg flange. it's got a 2 1/2 collector, much larger than most.

(shameless plug) IF you want a manifold that works, buy mine (haha)

next, tuning. just recently i rebuilt my motor with a forged setup. you have to be about as dumb as me to make these kinds of mistakes. i'm an honor grad, and i still don't know everything. way back when, eric, antione, and carlos fiddled with tuning, and made it public. some of us listened. even those that listened, like myself, still made stupid mistakes. i am a very experienced tuner with hondata, uberdata, and crome. i feel you should use uberdata. which leads me to my next...

(shameless plug-im selling a chipped and socketed ecu and injectors for uberdata)

all sarcasm aside. i blew a motor due to a defective wastegate actuator at 14psi on the stock map sensor with a 13.2 afr. anything above 12.2 in boost is BAD. 12.0 may keep your motor running longer tho.

lets talk about air fuel ratios, boost, timing, and f series blocks.

im guessing you've never seen inside an f22 or the like. let me tell you, its no 4g63 block. your sleeves are 3-4mm thick, outside of that there is maybe 8-9mm of ALUMINUM. these cylinder walls are only attached to the bottom of the block. they call these floating cylinders. to fix this problem you could have a block guard PRESSED in, install posts, or use block filler. the block filler setup is not for amateurs and a race radiator and better fans is a necessity, as i am finding out myself. excessive timing, compression, and fuel causes uncontrolled explosions, which leads to cylinder walk. it is guaranteed to happen on these blocks. no matter what. how do you stop this, well, first, keep the boost low. buy an ignition management system (or my ecu, those are 350+ btw). 10 psi is the absolute maximum you could boost your motor imo. even mine i dont plan on going past 14 in a couple months.

im done, off to work.

be careful.