Built DSM F22b turbo: Ball bearing GT or large T-Series?

[MRX]

hmmm...depending on how much boost you plan on running you may wanna look into getting something with a smaller exhaust a/r. You'll barely be touching the efficient part of that map at redline from 0 to about 13psi. If your gonna use that turbo i'd advise drivetrain mods to extend the redline and possibly a cam to aid in the motor breathing that high in the rpms.

[KillerCam282]

hmmm...depending on how much boost you plan on running you may wanna look into getting something with a smaller exhaust a/r. You'll barely be touching the efficient part of that map at redline from 0 to about 13psi. If your gonna use that turbo i'd advise drivetrain mods to extend the redline and possibly a cam to aid in the motor breathing that high in the rpms.

I am looking to invest in Crower's turbo spec cams and valve components. Also there are these trannies that overboost.com sells that are built for racing applications that I plan on buying. But maybe I can go with a turbo that is a lil smaller than that one. I will post my next idea after i do some more research.

P.S. MRX, I need to talk to you about an ECU soon.

[KillerCam282]

Here is the turbo that i am now interested in...



This is what MachV had to say aobut the turbo.

The entry-level AGP turbo uses a custom-cast turbine housing that bolts directly to any standard Mitsubishi manifold and O2 housing, yet it packs Garrett T3/T4 components. In this case, the compressor housing is a T04E housing with a full 3" inlet and a 46-trim compressor wheel rated at 43 lbs/min. The turbine side boasts a high-flowing 76-trim T31 turbine wheel.

This combination makes for great spool -- 20 psi of boost by 3500-3600 rpm is typical -- combined with excellent top-end. This is a wonderful turbo for a fast street car.

By default, we sell these turbos with an open wastegate outlet hole for use with an external gate on the O2 housing, or an external dump housing. Internal wastegates are available; you can also have the wastegate outlet welded shut if you want to put an external gate on your exhaust manifold. See below.

The center cartridge is the latest heavy-duty Garrett model, oil-cooled for simple install and reliability. These turbos do NOT use any water lines. Water-cooled center cartridges are not available, so don't ask. 2G owners will want to use the existing hoses to run a bypass for the water pipe. 1G owners can either plug the existing fittings (use a 3/8" NPT on the water pipe, and just clamp a bolt into the other line and put a hose clamp around it) or purchase a non-turbo water pipe (see below) to eliminate the outlet.

The outlet of the T04 housing points down, like a 20G turbo. If you would like an elbow on the outlet so it points left or right, you can add that below. You can also have the compressor housing polished to a mirror-like finish for an additional charge.

As with most any T04 compressor housing turbo, the compressor housing will interfere with the stock water line. You will need to dimple (that's a nice word for "crush") your stock water pipe to make room for the compressor housing.

Our complete kit includes the turbo, oil supply and drain lines, and a water-jet-cut stainless steel 7 cm turbo gasket.

Opinions please...

[MRX]

looks very good from the compressor map 3800-5600rpm is gonna be great for you. It doesn't lose more than 3% efficiency by redline even at like 20psi. This turbo is midnite approved

[fast93accord]

Here is a pic and specs of the Ball Bearing turbo I was talking about. I hope to get this by the end of July:



With the proper mods it can support 400-550hp (so they say)

As for the Civic, I'm thinking about a F22B/H22a Frank. The space in the Civic was not as good as i originally thought. Plus the T60 is a SS Autochrome turbo It looks nice but I saw a post about a turbo that was epoxied together from them.

Dude, i hate to tell it to you, but that turbo will not fit. The 4" inlet is to big.
My turbo has a 3" inlet and i had to cut a lot off the block to get it to fit. Also i dont think a ball bearing turbo will fit either. The turbo i have has a standard bearing mitsubshi bearing section because of length. The bb turbos, and garrett bearing sections are longer then the mitsu. Thats the reason i didnt go BB....

[MRX]

mine is ball bearing, fitment moreso depends on the mani but that 4" inlet IS gonna be very difficult to fit in there if you can even get it in there...your slave cylinder is gonna cause major problems too

[KillerCam282]

I found the D series adapter kit that Bisi sells. I would not have to worry about the slave cylinder because i am going cable. As for the turbo falling into the block, I have been looking for some equal length headers that seat the turbo farther away from the block.