if you still have your original o2 sensor giving your ecu input then it may not be necessary. I used the yellow input as my narrow band o2 signal to my ecu. this seems to be working well. Your wideband is still going to be need to be grounded, picking the ground is important to reduce interference. That is why i used the ground from the o2 sensor going too the ecu. As well as making my gauge set up easily transferable to another vehicle if i choose too.
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
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H22 turbo build from the bottom to the top
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I finally got to turn the key!
Got some troubles though
I did the deal of priming the oil pump and afterword when I turn the key the motor fires right away but then dies
It will continue to do this over and over.
If I blast it with ether it will run. Only did that twice.
I checked spark in the 1 and 2 cylinders and we are good there
Fuel pressure at the rail is 40 psi when the pump is on and 30 when it's not.
I'm using the 1000 cc grams injectors so I eliminated the resistor box by splicing all the wires together.
Any advice on how to proceed is much appreciated
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Originally posted by kratemertyl View PostSo where did u tie into the Ecu at, at the plug its self or did u go right to the ecu?
Glad you got it to fire, sorry i have no ideas currently about it not staying running.CB7TUNER.com
Educating each other one car at a time.
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I'll go ahead and try that later this week^^^^^
But as of now...........SHE'S ALIVE!
After a day and half trouble shooting and testing the fuel and ignition systems I decided to go ahead and hook up to the ecu and take a look at the base Map that was loaded and sure enough it was looking for the oem map sensor rather then the 4 bar omni I'm running. Changed that and bam, started right up.
I went with the old ones break in technique and I put about 50 miles on it tonight. All seems good. I had a buddy help me out so we could do some tweaking to the fuel tables while driving and I think I got it to a pretty good spot at least until I can break in the motor and get a good tune
Here's what she looked like
@ 60mph, 3000rpm in 5th gear, 183F coolant temp, 55psi oil pressure, 15:1 Air to fuel, 10" of vacuum
When I lean on the throttle the afr drops to like 12 ish
The car seem to like all that is going on at the moment
I forgot how much this t2t4 Trans hates the highway
What I still need to work out,
Currently Im throwing a code for the VSS
I have no speddo and no trip meter
I'm also getting an ABS light.
I'm thinking there related
And on start ups it seems pretty consistent that it jus turns over not firing for about five seconds. Then I let off the key and try again and it starts almost right up.
Thoughts?
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The VSS, speedo, and tachometer are certainly related. How did you hook up your VSS and power steering speed sensor to the tranny? I'm just wondering if it's not catching the gear inside the housing.
I've been following your build, and am happy for you that you got to this point. I read through your other thread where Japan Star Motors really let you down. You had just gotten VTEC to work!
Thoughts on the long start: do you hear the fuel pump priming normally before you begin the initial start attempt? What is your fuel pressure on the rail during the first startup? I have the exact same fuel rail and FPR you do. I'm pretty sure that the second pic on post 67 shows your FPR installed backwards. Maybe that doesn't matter, I'm just throwing out ideas.Last edited by af_1132; 12-04-2014, 04:37 AM.
MRT
14.38 @ 98.66mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.346
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The no speedo issue was resolved as soon as I realized I had the VSS plugged into the EGR plug. Same style plug, same spot. Oops. The abs light was resolved when I realized the plug at the abs pump wasn't fully plugged in. Glad it was easy and small stuff
I have the FPR positioned like that cause that's the only way it fit with the gauge so close.
Tomorrow I'm gonna wire my wideband to my ecu and Tuesday I have an appointment to get tuned.
I got about 200 miles on it right now, and I plan on putting another couple hundred this weekend.
Tuesday is gonna be awesome.
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I've got an extra 1/8"NPT 90 degree elbow that I could ship to you. It would allow the gauge to point in your direction when looking from the front of the car and be out of the way of the FPR. Let me know if you want it.
MRT
14.38 @ 98.66mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.346
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That's not a bad idea man, I could probably pick one up at Napa for a dollar or two. I jus figured there was no harm in mounting it that way.
And to answer your earlier question I do hear my fuel pump kicking on and my fuel pressure is about 55psi.
So in thinking of hook in back up to the computer and see if I can pull any readings while trying to start.
Thanks for offering up that 90 though bro
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Here's a couple things I didn't get to post a few weeks back
here's a lil jumper I made to hook up the cb harness to the new map sensor on top of the TB
A little something to help keep the vibration down
was able to use the factory accord fan by making a few easy brackets to mount to the rad
Here she sits all mounted up
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