H22 turbo build from the bottom to the top

[kratemertyl]

It's go autoworks manifold. They build then in house. It's a very stellar manifold. That along with the 3" down pipe where made by them. Kinda pricey but excellent quality.

Raff I'll check your ls out tonight. Internet is bad where I am.

I got the IM all finished up. I just have to install it and the. Degree my cams and she will be done.

I still need to chip my ecu and try and figure out if my stock ignition is gonna be sufficient or not.

[kratemertyl]

Looks like Craigslist did me in yet again. Seems the P 28 I bought was no good. Ecu is pretty much all that's hold in me up right now. Made a bunch of progress last weekend, I'll post pics tonight

Here's a quick shot before I mounted the Trans


Makin room for the I


The start of the EGR block off plate, work in with stainless isn't as easy as aluminum but it was all I had

[kratemertyl]

Used cardboard to get The correct size and shape and then transfered over to some 90's for mounting the IC

I didn't spend much time polishing the block off plate, just cut it cleaned it smoothed it and slapped some high temp RTV on both sides of it before bolting it down

final touches on the IM

and one last shot before I stuck it in the hole

Sorry if the images don't match the text, new phone.

[kratemertyl]

Got the oil drain from the turbo fitted out. There wasn't a lot of room to work with here but was able to use a -10an

[kratemertyl]

I was able to slip the air/fuel ratio gauge I to an existing hole I had cut for my volume tank gauge

for this pillar I used my buddies old fox body pillar. I cut it to fit best it would, then used rivets to secure it in place. Then used plastic weld to fill the gaps, sanded it, cleaned it and paint matched it.

for the boost gauge I sacrificed a AC vent.
In a nut shell, pulled out the vent, transfered the diameter of the gauge onto the vent with a white pen, cut out the middle, formed it up with cardboard, filled it with resin In Multiple stages, used bondo for the final coat, sanded it and painted it.
I think I took a bunch of pictures if anybody cares. If anybody even reads this thread

[cb7 calling]

I'm reading and glad you are making progress. It's looking good man.

[Sordz]

Is that a wideband afr gauge? You should really reconsider mounting that where you can monitor it while your driving at WOT. For me thats the only gauge I am looking at when making a pull.

[kratemertyl]

well my thinking was that this gauge will probably be the most readable, and that a quick glance would be able to tell me everything i know.
however this gauge is not wired yet, only mounted. i could always re locate it and use that spot for say a pyrometer gauge. i heard those are also handy to have. id b interested to hear others takes on this, on the widebands location

[h22sparkle]

If anything are you trying to keep it a sleeper you could mount it in the cluster to hide it with some glowshift guages so it doesn't attract any unwanted attention from the laws or thieves.

[kratemertyl]

so this might be a silly question but,
when installing my "innovate motorsports" Wide ban A/F ratio gauge, i am kinda unclear with the instructions.

they say:
red for power from ignition source
black for ground
white for illumination
yellow and brown (optional) for ecu and data loggers

one plug for my o2 sesor
one 4 pin plug that says "in"
one 4 pin plug that says "out"

my thinking is, does my ecu not need to see this new o2 sensor? seems like it does. and if so how do i hook it up
i know there are four wires on the stock o2 sensor two for heating it and two for reading it. how do i pick between them and is it neccessary

[Sordz]

so this might be a silly question but,
when installing my "innovate motorsports" Wide ban A/F ratio gauge, i am kinda unclear with the instructions.

they say:
red for power from ignition source
black for ground
white for illumination
yellow and brown (optional) for ecu and data loggers

one plug for my o2 sesor
one 4 pin plug that says "in"
one 4 pin plug that says "out"

my thinking is, does my ecu not need to see this new o2 sensor? seems like it does. and if so how do i hook it up
i know there are four wires on the stock o2 sensor two for heating it and two for reading it. how do i pick between them and is it neccessary

Assuming your wideband is similar to my AEM unit, it does not need to be connected to the ECU at all. It simply reads your AFR. It can be, and I have mine wired to my ecu so I can monitor the AFR on my laptop as well as datalog it. You do not use the factory 02 sensor wires, you run the wire directly to the ECU and tell your tuning software where to find it(again this is how mine is set up). Similar to how you install a boost sensor/solenoid if you plan to use your tuning software to monitor/control boost and boost by gear etc.

I have not messed around with tuning or any new honda stuff in a few years, so things could have changed...

[kratemertyl]

thanks, that is helpful.
imma go ahead and wire it up standing alone for tonight so i can put a wrap on the car and when i pick up my ecu from the guy whos gonna tune ill show him what i got. hes jus not available today so i wanted to ask on here

[kratemertyl]

Heading out for some exhaust work

[cb9love]

That inovate AFR you have has two o2 sensor wires one for the ecu too read as its o2 inpit it sends out a factory signal. The second input show the full range of the afr and is for datalogging either through your ecu or a standalone datalogger. I used a old o2 sensor pigtail too make a plug too plug the wide band into ground power and narrow band input with out any other hacking.
The pyrometer aka egt gauge is a good way for extra monitoring, it helps with timing and detonation.

[kratemertyl]

So, are you saying it's mandatory to hook up? The back of my gauge Does have the two extra wires u speak of, brown for data logging and yellow for Ecu.
If I cut the plug off my old or sensor and wire the signal wire to that yellow wire from my gauge does that do it? Or do I also have to ground it?