H22 turbo build from the bottom to the top

[cb9love]

have you had your machine shop look at the crank that spun the rod in the h on you?
maybe having it turned down .010" would be your best bet.
you were planning on having them micro polish your new crank anyway.

[illinois_erik]

so its lookin like i may be up shits creek again.
im not gonna start freakin out yet but im starting to get worried

as u may remember i was having a hell of a time locating a crankshaft.
well i finally cam across one at graveyardmotorsports.com
there big into the dsm scene but lately have expanded into the whole import community.
i tried contacting them by email but without hearing from them after two weeks i called them up. they answered right away and "Jeff " was a very nice and knowledgeable guy.
they told me they had a like new crankshaft sitting on the self and it jus needed to be polished up. they even included bearings at no extra cost ( that should have been a giveaway, nothing is free these days)
he charged me $460 and told me it should ship within a week.

that was 6 weeks ago.
i have been blowin up there phone, email, facebook for a week with no repose.
i decided to do what i should have done before i ordered from a company i never heard of and did a lil google search of there name.
it seems like the internet is full of nothing but bad things to say about these guys............
so not only am i possible out almost 500 bucks but now i have to start this hole crankshaft journey over again.

this blows

Well Ive been down the take the money and ignore you route..after a couple months of smoke up my ass.. 1) I stalked down his gf and called their house asking for him 2) I sent an email telling him Ive done everything I can and now its finally progressed to no more fucking around... I dropped http://www.ic3.gov/default.aspx and the description of what they do.
Then I got some more excuses till I replied with a hard deadline..then partial refund started flying around, I was like no I want my shit and I want the tracking number by friday..or else..
I got my part within the week.

[kratemertyl]

To my surprise they actually emailed me back last night and told me they(the owner) was looking into it. This is the same guy that everyone on the internet is ragging about though. With a company of this standard I'm not even sure I would want to put the crank in my motor.

My original crank I had turned months ago at a machine shop that agreed to nitrate it for me after it was turned.
Well when I picked it up after 6 weeks it had been sent to a different machine shop to be turned .010 on the mains .020 on the rods and apprently the guy said " i do these all the time , they don't need to be nitrated"
If it wouldn't had been such a F'in hassel to get it done in the first place I would have just left it and said NO I WANTED IT NITRTED!!
At that point I jus wanted my shit back. And finding a new/used one online seemed to be an easy enough task.
I was wrong

I'll try and work with people like a decent human as long as I can stand. At least they finally replied to my email

[laz93se]

Havent you checked local jy in new orleans, there has to be an h22 somewhere close? What about hondatech?

[kratemertyl]

Local junkyards prevail not much but junk round here. About two hours from the house though I came across the junk yard of all junkyards. This place was like a fantasy for guys like us. All done up in crushed rock so u dint have to tromp through mud. All cars where jacked up and sitting on steallies. Anything that had Been past its prime got sent to the crusher and replaced with new stock. Everything was in sections, Hondas, acuras, etc etc. when I walked in they had probably 8 cb7's that anyone of us could have taken on as a project. I thought I was in heaven. At that time there where no ludes. There was a 97 TL which I think previously housed an h22 but it was gone.
This place however wanted $30 for a fender I had to remove my self. They also charge a cover fee to walk around.
I suppose if this doesn't pan out I can turn back there.
At the time i ordered eBay didnt have anything but They do now.
It's not a deal breaker. Jus another hoop to jump through is all

[kratemertyl]

well, i got home and everything has arrived. i was also able to get a refund for the crankshaft from graveyard motorsports. i have purchased one off ebay so i just hope its in as good as condition as they say it is.
i was able to get a few things done over the last week. ill post some pics when i can.
-got the traction bar installed.
-finished the wire tuck
-re assembled and mounted headlights(had to paint the housings cause the chrome was chipping)
-re located the p/s cooler to make more room for intercooler
-got the head back
-got the IM torn apart
-removed the butterfly plate from my f22 and to my surprise its an exact match to the h22
-gutted both plates(still need to fill in the holes)

opinions, as far as my butterfly plates go, is adding one gonna be sufficient or is adding two (total 3) recomended?

and as far as ordering bearings goes, becuase im running manely rods and they are notorious for having tight clearances should i run with slimmer bearings?
like maybe green mains and brown rods?

[kratemertyl]

alright guys i need help. i have no experience here and am looking for some advice. i got a crank last week and now its time to order bearings.
for some reason this part is very intimidating to me. i feel like i i don't get this part right nothing else will matter

i mic'd the crank journals and the bearing housings.
used the formula:
Main bearing housing - Crank journal = total clearance
total clearance - target clearance = X
X/ 2 = bearing size

looking at the service manual, they say i can vary my clearance by about .0015 and still be within spec

my crank journals measured different for the most part.
so if i apply above formula to the numbers i got from the mic i end up with two greens, two yellows and one red set of bearings if i wanna maintain the same clearance all the way through. i was using a target clearance of .0015

1) im not really sure what the best clearance is to run on my mains wheather it be .0015 or maybe higher like .0020
anybody had luck with a certain clearance on boost?

2) am i gonna have to order three different sets of bearings because of this?

3) would i be ok by going with all yellow's?
that would give me .0017 on 1&2 .0015 on 3&4 and .0008 on 5

[Dutchaccord]

I learned that with all honda engines I built I could use the std size ACL bearings. (not sure of brand names, its been a while... danm im getting old)

But if you wish to order them according to spec, go with the larger clearance if running >400ish hp.

hope this helps

[19dabeast85]

As far as specific clearance needed for each journal for a boosted h22, I really don't know. I would guess .0017 is the smallest you want to go but that's off the top of my head. I know you definitely don't want that .0008, you'll spin or seize that one immediately.

You know you can order each bearing color individually off hondapartsdeals.com, or hondaautomotiveparts.com correct? No need to order 3 complete sets. Just order the specific color you need for each of the 9 journals.

[kratemertyl]

yea at first i was under the impression that i had to order the whole set cause thats how they were sold. but i quickly learned you can buy them by the halves.

i ended up running a clearance of .0017
the crank is now installed and spins very smoothly
i will be trying to get the pistons and rods installed this weekend, jus gotta file my rings down a bit.
at this point in the build i really wish i had more time to play. but its jus little bits at a time keeping this build in motion.

[98vtec]

I hope you took crank alignment into perspective when using different sized bearing halves in the same journal.

for example: thick top bearing, thinner bottom bearing. you will want to continue that trend in the rest of the journals. if the crank gets positioned a certain way with the above situation and you take a set of bearing halves and flip them (thin on top and thick on bottom), that journal will be more susceptible to wear.

id prefer to have thinner on bottom due to cylinder pressure creating a downward force.

thats my thoughts at least.

[kratemertyl]

i actually just went with std size clevites and after the micro polish they measured between .0018 and .0014

pistons and rods installed fairly effortlessly (although i broke one ring)
on the CP pistons there was no arrow indicating which way was forward so i just had to look at the larger cut intake valve reliefs and position accordingly.
also the Manely rods dont have any markings indicating a forward position so i just placed them all with the logo facing forward.

with the rotating assembely complete i installed the head.
im kinda bummed i didnt take more pictures but most of this work was done late at night long after the wife and baby were asleep.

so as she stands at the moment,
sitting back on the ground, all interior back in, intercooler temp mounted so i coud retro fit OEM bumper,

long block assemble still in need of IM
i simpley just need to cleam the entire IM and then fix up the butterfly plates so theres no holes in them.
pics will come in a few days
im currently shooting for mid october being done.

[kratemertyl]

Here's a lil sneak peak. This was last week so it's a little bit further along now

[wildBill83]

What ram horn manifold are you using?

[Raf99]

Nice build so far. You should check out my ride as its similar. I had a machine shop build the bottom end to a 8:5:1 compression though as i've never done it. I still have to build the top end though. Check it out if you get a chance.