smic few pic old setup

[blazen_accord]

I had a few people pm me regarding pic of the smic and it piping and I might as well share it with everyone, this was my old setup before and after with the SAAB smic, much bigger then the DSM smic and just as cheap and easy to find. piping is 2.25" from turbo to smic and 2.5" smic to TB. Low end power was mad crazy with the small turbo, spool up at 1800rpm full boost 3000rpm. Feel like I got a v8 lol, got 242wtq so smoking and chip tire are easy at every stop. The car pull real hard off the line, my bov never go off between shift since it an automatic, and scare the crap off v6 and v8 car, they see no FMIC, hear no bov till race end then it too late it ASTA( Automatic Sleeper Turbo Accord) Baby..when , lol muhahaha the good old day, to bad it does not have top end power, but you cannot have both. I rather have bottom end power/tq, to me is more value in city and off the line race where speed is below 60 miles. and for normal driving part Throttle less then 50%, I am in full boost at 40% throttle at 3000rpm, instant low end power. since where I live there a light every 500 feet, that part throttle driving fit me just fine, but everyone has their own driving habbit..





a few more shoot before the smic.

[Boost_Lee]

what turbo were u runnin blazen? How was it with the auto tranny, did it ever slip or feel iffy to u? Was highway driving an issue to stay out of boost?

[blazen_accord]

what turbo were u runnin blazen? How was it with the auto tranny, did it ever slip or feel iffy to u? Was highway driving an issue to stay out of boost?

I started out with just a Cheap garrett T25, then a T28 and end up with a custom ported T25, pull 360degree bearing, upgrade parts and T28 compressor. oil and water cooled The auto tranny hold up well, but I check my tranny fluid often and use redline fluid just to make sure. I did not rev past 6k since the turbo would peak at 5600rpm. I did feel a harder kick in 1-2 shift my car would almost jump up during the shift, it was beacuse I don't front engine mount because of the turbo position, so people think I got an manuall lol. But my axle did give in twice in 6 month, most likely bad axle from advance auto part. The tranny hold out fine better then the engine, I had gone through 2 engine using same F22a4 tranny and later swap an jdm f22a tranny for better 1-2 gearing.

Driving on the highway was real hard to stay out of boost, unless I drive like a granny. Highway I barely use more then 20% throttle for normal crusing and driving since I'm in already at 5-8psi of boost. in the highway 70mph@3000 rpm I'm already at 6psi at 15% thottle so a slight touch of the gas will give me full boost at 14psi@ less then 40 % thottle. The Throttle respond and drivability was better then perfect, you cannot feel the transaction into boost, since it come on so early and instantly. If you r like me and race on highway like once or twice a week, and spend most of your time in traffic and city light war. Drivability and throttle respond far outweight HP@top end, It feel like having an straight 6 boxer engine in an accord.

[Boost_Lee]

nice, how was the t25? Is that turbo smaller than a 13G? I currently have a 13g sitting here, and i want to know if it will be good enough for my auto. I need to have good highway mileage, and i would like to stay out of boost on long trips so i can put less stress on the motor. sounds like i should do a flush with some redline, tranny cooler, and some good axles for my boost.

[i_love_cb7]

so with a auto the bov will not go off?

and what engine management do u use?

thx
-Henry

[blazen_accord]

so with a auto the bov will not go off?

and what engine management do u use?

thx
-Henry

With the auto, BOV will not go off until you release the gas like an manual tranny, Since auto upshift by TCU or Manually shifting the auto does not required relaeseing the gas pedal. I do however manually upshift my auto and release the gas pedal for a slit milisec and floor it at each upshift and find the auto tranny catch gear faster and pull harder then keeping the gas pedal down all the time, plus the bov will go off with each shift if you like to show off

I did not have any reliable engine management, and uses mostly cheap bandage fix like 370cc, 10:1 FMU, 255 wabro , and SAFC II, box box that connect to the map sensor wire that come with the turbo kit, dizzy retard the engine by 6 degree. The kit was design for 5-6psi not 14psi hehe, my timing was too much advance and not enough fuel lead out too blown engine ring in cly 3. when I went to dyno shop 1 2week before my engine blow up, my a/f ratio at was 13.8:1 way to lean but mad mad HP, we lower it down to 10.5:1 for safe at 14psi, I loss lot of HP but made up lot of TQ, but engine is already damage, so a few more hard 2-3 minute run finaly blow the ring...

[blazen_accord]

nice, how was the t25? Is that turbo smaller than a 13G? I currently have a 13g sitting here, and i want to know if it will be good enough for my auto. I need to have good highway mileage, and i would like to stay out of boost on long trips so i can put less stress on the motor. sounds like i should do a flush with some redline, tranny cooler, and some good axles for my boost.

Don't know which is bigger, the T25 came stock on Gen II DSM. If the 13G is smaller then it will be more in boost in highway driving. Look like an 16G will be good for you since it does not spool up till aout 3500rpm, at 6-7 psi setting you will need roughly about 4.5-5K and 70% thottle to reach full boost. my friend is no where near boost at 5k and around 40% throttle he has an big 16G.

[jdmkid]

were you running no intercooler b4 smic

[AznBadAss92LX]

see i didnt do it like that...if i did it liek that i would take out my headlight when i go to the track...

[Boost_Lee]

Don't know which is bigger, the T25 came stock on Gen II DSM. If the 13G is smaller then it will be more in boost in highway driving. Look like an 16G will be good for you since it does not spool up till aout 3500rpm, at 6-7 psi setting you will need roughly about 4.5-5K and 70% thottle to reach full boost. my friend is no where near boost at 5k and around 40% throttle he has an big 16G.

The only problem is that I want good low low end. My launches suck big ones, auto trans with 18's. Besides, making power in the lower power band will put less stress on the motor, than if I were up at 6k. I want nice torque, and boost up to about 5.5-6k. On the highway, if I coast and feather the gas, will I still be in vacuum?

[blazen_accord]

were you running no intercooler b4 smic

At low boost 5-6psi, the kit was set for that I use no smic, then I upped the boost with a boost controller to 8-9psi then added the smic. I went to 12-14psi when I have my water/alcohol injection/sprayer. trying to look and sound non turbo as possible. trying to look like your average rice boy, with cheap pepboy sticker and neon waiting for any fish to bite my bait Had Nitrous installed also but never fill the bottle so never use it yet.

The only problem is that I want good low low end. My launches suck big ones, auto trans with 18's. Besides, making power in the lower power band will put less stress on the motor, than if I were up at 6k. I want nice torque, and boost up to about 5.5-6k. On the highway, if I coast and feather the gas, will I still be in vacuum?

18" is too heavy with auto unless u spend $1500 for a nice light weight wheel,
17" is the biggest I would go with. Making power in the low end since we have an 2.2L most turbo will spool up by 3K, unless u go with big 16G, T3/t4 larger then .50 AR. an 16G or T3 would work well up to redline, but an T25/28 will give you more low end around starting at 1800rpm but peak at 5600rpm just right for stock F22 engine. If your run low boost 6-8psi on the highway unless you have throttle around 45% you will have vaccumm till 23% and then maybe 2-3psi at 30%, that is slowly pressing the gas, boost build up very slow compare to flooring it to 50% or more. most people cruise at around 10%-25% throttle so u should have no boost.

[Boost_Lee]

yea 18's are a bit heavy, but I'll surely lose them for track purposes. I have a JDM F20A, so do you think the boost will be the same at the same rpms? How will it vary? This motor pulls easier on the torque side, and I still use a F22a6 TCU, so shifts are at 62ish. For reference, im at 3k around 70-80 mph, coastin on the highway.

[iamanonymous]

i don't know much about auto turbos but in my 5 speed i have no problem staying out of boost at any speed. i can be in vacuum at 100 mph if i want. of course when i hit the gas a little, here comes 10 psi. hopefully that helps.

[blazen_accord]

yea 18's are a bit heavy, but I'll surely lose them for track purposes. I have a JDM F20A, so do you think the boost will be the same at the same rpms? How will it vary? This motor pulls easier on the torque side, and I still use a F22a6 TCU, so shifts are at 62ish. For reference, im at 3k around 70-80 mph, coastin on the highway.

Your JDM F20A engine is smaller displacement then my JDM F22A, so the boost rpm will vary by about 500-700rpm more to match the exhasut output of an 2.2L. It all depend on the turbo size and your preset boost level. at highway cruising your at top gear so exhaust presure will be very low, my turbo is an custom hybrid T25/T28 turbo so it spool up early and push out more air vs an stock T25, or DSM 14b. IT really not RPM dependent and more Thottle percentage. so I can be in 5k rpm and 20% throttle and produce no boost. now If I am floor it I can be at 3.5krpm @80% throttle I will be in full boost. at crusing speed and top gear you will need as much as 40% thottle to stay in 2-3psi boost since your exhaust pressure is low and your stock ECU still treat it as open loop and constanly make changes to get you best gas millage/and emmission.

[Boost_Lee]

thanks blazen, so I should be fine with this turbo for now? Since its based on throttle position, most of the time I am less than half on it. Highway I feather it to about 20% at most. As long as the boost does not harm the motor on long trips, power output can be changed later. I can alway switch to a 14B later. Since I have a smaller displacement, then my car is similar to a manual F22 as far as RPM's go correct? Also, I heard somewhere that boost is safer on the motor at low RPM's than at higher ones.. is this true? I believe it said something about the downstroke of the piston and utilizing that power? My goals are a safe, daily driver, @ 8 lbs, 200ish whp and torquey