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Mild DD turbo F22A6

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    #1

    Mild DD turbo F22A6

    I am working on this CB7 and was doing a stock rebuild and still will be. However a buddy of mine reminded that I have a Volvo Garret turbo, DSM 450cc injectors and intercooler sitting in my shed o parts. Turbo is a TB0363 which is off a 740, I believe this to be a T3. It tops out at 14psi, I am only looking to push 8 psi, my goal is to make 200whp. I have read thread after thread in regards to the pistons, specifically the ring lands being the weakest link. Reading a thread in regards to Flatlander pistons but no one has any info it appears most are using either Bisi or Race Eng for pistons.

    With this power goal anything else to be concerned about other than pistons? It appears everyone is using H23 head studs is this correct?
    Tags: None
    #2
    At that power level, the pistons aren't the weakest link. The weakest link is tuner's incompetence. H23 studs are correct.

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      #3
      Originally posted by rexload View Post
      At that power level, the pistons aren't the weakest link. The weakest link is tuner's incompetence. H23 studs are correct.

      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
      Word


      I would ditch that turbo and pick up a DSM 14b turbo. Its about perfect, cheap and rebuildable for less then $100. Just make sure you use the coolant lines, and get a good tune. The DSM route is how I would do it anyhow.

      As far as the pistons go, they will be just fine at those power levels-The real question is are you going to be satisfied? If your going through all the hassle of a rebuild, spend a little extra for a forged rotational assembly and be done with it if you can. Then @ 200WHP or 400WHP you could be worry free. I can assure you, you will want more power once you get behind a 200whp turbo DD.



      As far as the 8 psi vs 14 psi comment;

      psi is irrelevant in turbo talk. CFM is what you are looking for if your getting down to the nitty gritty. PSI is only a measure of pressure. CFM=flow.
      Originally posted by wed3k
      im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by rexload View Post
        At that power level, the pistons aren't the weakest link. The weakest link is tuner's incompetence. H23 studs are correct.
        I understand that, hence why I am not touching it. We have some well versed tuners here in Charlotte.

        Originally posted by toycar View Post
        I would ditch that turbo and pick up a DSM 14b turbo. Its about perfect, cheap and rebuildable for less then $100. Just make sure you use the coolant lines, and get a good tune. The DSM route is how I would do it anyhow.

        As far as the pistons go, they will be just fine at those power levels-The real question is are you going to be satisfied? If your going through all the hassle of a rebuild, spend a little extra for a forged rotational assembly and be done with it if you can. Then @ 200WHP or 400WHP you could be worry free. I can assure you, you will want more power once you get behind a 200whp turbo DD.



        As far as the 8 psi vs 14 psi comment;

        psi is irrelevant in turbo talk. CFM is what you are looking for if your getting down to the nitty gritty. PSI is only a measure of pressure. CFM=flow.
        I have 3 other F22 blocks to if I feel the need I can build another one with better internals. I would love to do the rods and pistons but it is not in the cards right now. For the purpose of the car 200whp is really just fine. I don't plan on setting the world on fire. I'll leave the big turbo to my diesel truck.

        I have looked at the DSM route but figured using what I had. From what I read the DSM manifold (what years am I looking for), turbo etc will bolt on with slight modification, correct? Either way I have to rebuild a turbo

        I also have to keep AC and PS.

        Well every board talks different PSI or CFM.
        Last edited by CRX Toad; 05-19-2011, 01:49 PM.

        Comment

          #5
          I found a 2g (95-99) stock DSM manifold for $30 and it has no cracks it it. Also at the local yard I found an H23 plentum and now have a coresponding throttle body for it.

          What is the consensus of eBay 14b or 16g turbos? Other than be ready to rebuild them quickly. Is there any housing, compressor wheel, shaft issues? Or is it mainly the seals that need replaced.

          Comment

            #6
            eBay as in China made knock-off turbos?

            It is a very controversial topic.

            Some people claim that their eBay turbo blew up as soon as they started the car.

            I've been running mine for over 8 months now (daily) and I've had ZERO issues with it. Seals that it came with are fine too.

            Comment

              #7
              I wouldn't touch one of those cheap turbos. I'd rather use a 14b, and rebuild it if necessary... rebuild kits are common, and relatively affordable.

              The Volvo turbo would probably work well enough. I believe the Volvo engine it came off of was a 2.3L, so it should be capable of flowing correctly on a 2.2L. The 14b, as suggested above, is still the more common choice.

              At 200whp, on a quality stock rebuild, the engine should last for a decent amount of time. The ringlands will still probably be the weakest link (assuming everything was assembled correctly, with quality parts, during the rebuild. Still, they shouldn't break for quite a while. People will run 20 year old pistons for a year or two, making more than 200whp, and not break a ringland.

              The tuning is most certainly important. How long this motor lasts will depend more on the tuning than anything else.






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