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Turbo install. Few quick ?'s

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    Turbo install. Few quick ?'s

    I have been reading around and have almost all of my kit together.

    First off,
    1) Do i have to remove my front engine mount for a DSM set-up or are there ways around that? Would a traction bar be a substitute for that?

    2) Has anyone done a topmount IC with a cry02 sprayer?

    3) I was planning on getting 2.25 inch IC piping, is that too big?

    4) What other than shimming the WG actuator can i do to turn up boost?

    TIA for the help. I am hoping to have it boosted by mid august.\


    Ben

    #2
    I also forgot, inside the DSM manifold, there is a flap looking thing where the turbo bolts to the mani. Can this be cut of in a sort of "porting" attempt just to clean up the inside of the manifold for a better "flow"?

    Comment


      #3
      1) Yes and yes.
      2) I doubt anybody have a top mount ic. People do have the water/meth injection though. That and you can get a nx kit for an ic spray.
      3) No thats not to big
      4) I'm not sure on that one. Maybe drummersteve will post up. He will know.

      86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
      "The Turtle"
      DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by bkmc24 View Post
        I also forgot, inside the DSM manifold, there is a flap looking thing where the turbo bolts to the mani. Can this be cut of in a sort of "porting" attempt just to clean up the inside of the manifold for a better "flow"?
        That flap is the internal wastegate.

        Theres a couple of ways you can increase the boost.
        Use a boost controller, but be aware of boost spikes that can occur when using the standard wastegate port. They can be reduced by porting the wastegate housing.
        The other way is to fit an external wastegate then you can run whatever boost you like by changing the spring.


        Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

        My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

        A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

        If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

        Comment


          #5
          Ben from Delaware Ohio who bought a coupe from Pete?

          That flap in the manifold he's referring to could be the divider. It divides cylinders 1,4 and 2,3 to compensate for some cylinders expelling exhaust at tdc, and some cylinders on their compression stroke at the same tdc.

          ^^click it or ticket^^

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by CB7lx91 View Post
            Ben from Delaware Ohio who bought a coupe from Pete?

            That flap in the manifold he's referring to could be the divider. It divides cylinders 1,4 and 2,3 to compensate for some cylinders expelling exhaust at tdc, and some cylinders on their compression stroke at the same tdc.
            That's me. I know what a wg is. I was referring to the divider which I will keep.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by bkmc24 View Post
              That's me. I know what a wg is. I was referring to the divider which I will keep.
              My mistake - To me a flap is movable - A divider is solid
              Last edited by evil_demon_01; 07-22-2009, 01:12 AM.


              Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

              My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

              A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

              If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

              Comment


                #8
                Also, will a 16g wastegate actuator fit my 14b? I have been trying to find a WGACT like no ones business and if this works ill be even closer.

                Comment


                  #9
                  There is a 90% chance that your 14b setup is going to creep and spike anyway, you'll need to get boost controlled properly before you should worry about raising it. Tuning for the spike/creep is not a good idea either though, as it is not always predictable.

                  Regardless.

                  1)Yes, its gone, no more front motor mount. You can diy one like me, or get a traction bar with the provision.
                  2)soon, sans the cry02. Water meth and big intercoolers can help air temps.
                  3)Nope.
                  4) Bend the wastegate arm so that it is shorter than normal, thus keeping the wg closed longer. It only opens maybe 1/3rd of the way anyway, and will be very prone to spiking and creeping though.

                  Don't kill the divider, it helps flow. Also, the 2g mani flows better than the 1g mani.

                  Either wastegate actuator will work.
                  2010 Taurus SHO - Livernois Goodies
                  2002 BMW 330 CI Convertible - HUNK OF JUNK

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                    #10
                    Im probably going to do a topmount where the battery is, relocate that, construct something similar to the J's racing s2k intake ait director for it with a Cry02 IC sprayer. DEI is in ohio so im going to take a trip there lol

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I've never seen any great increased from IC sprayers, but that's not to say they don't work. My friend has an air to water ic and its awesome. Intake temps below 50 degrees ftw.
                      2010 Taurus SHO - Livernois Goodies
                      2002 BMW 330 CI Convertible - HUNK OF JUNK

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by chessboxer View Post
                        I've never seen any great increased from IC sprayers, but that's not to say they don't work. My friend has an air to water ic and its awesome. Intake temps below 50 degrees ftw.
                        Air to water IC's are great for the fact that the IC core temperature hardly changes more than a few degrees at any time.


                        Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

                        My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

                        A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

                        If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          But they arent as cheap are they? What are the pros/cons of them? I may end up changing my ideas to that side lol

                          What all is needed for the DSM injector install? Ive got my blacktop 450's and the resistor box

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by bkmc24 View Post
                            But they arent as cheap are they? What are the pros/cons of them? I may end up changing my ideas to that side lol

                            What all is needed for the DSM injector install? Ive got my blacktop 450's and the resistor box
                            air-to-water setups start from ~$300 and up
                            they are usually more efficient but there are more parts so it would take a little longer to install, i can't think of any other cons

                            nothing is needed for DSM injector install, nothing needs to be modified, they are direct fit. you don't need another resistor box, the Accord already has an injector resistor box.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Imo if considering a dsm setup..I would opt for a ebay gt manifold..its fitted with a 38mm wastegate port..thus you will have no chances of boost creep..

                              Secondly either run a big front mount..or if your hell bound on the top mount which would be a pain to fit..id suggest definetly running methanl injection. To aid with knock due to the higher temps you will experience with. A tmic.


                              Start out at low boost..until you get everything setup approprixately and the car running good


                              Don't even attempt a boost controller with a dsm setup. Especially with a 14b..its just too small..its a good starting point so I won't knock you for that..but as far as raising the boost..before raising..upgrade..to a evo316g or a 20g..and you'll make more power at the same psi level..


                              Praise The Lowered...

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