whos running a DSM set up?

[rexload]

Thanks for the reply, 300 bucks for a turbo that is good for 400whp+ sounds good to me. I am gonna do some more research.

[drummersteve7]

In creativity, the DSM turbines use a "J-pipe" to direct the compressed air to where your piping is. Usually people cut these J-pipes and put a silicone 90 degree bend coupling followed by an exhaust pipe reducer. Something worth looking into is a J-pipe flange and making your own properly placed piping.

I know what ya mean, here take a look and see what F22hb(Jon) and I did with mine!
It kind of looks like a motorcycle muffler!


with a lil CB7Tuner Love

[WiKKeDV16]

Thanks for the reply, 300 bucks for a turbo that is good for 400whp+ sounds good to me. I am gonna do some more research.

5mins of searching before heading out to work:

20g wheel
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsu...Q5fAccessories

115shipped MHI OEM part


and look at this sweet deal
http://cgi.ebay.com/Turbo-Compressor...3286.m20.l1116

229shipped for both housing and wheel



this thread is awesome ppl.. lots of good info.. good questions... good chit-chat.. no flaming/hating/bullshit..

lets keep this donkey going


two thumbs up:

[r32spec]

sorry to aswer you late. i am on stock internals for now. i do drive normal for the most part, and when i get on it holds pretty good. For some of the guys who want to get 400hp say goodbye to traction. why would you want to sit there and spin and not go ? Just save up and by a mhi tdo5h16g. Because by the time you buy a used 14b your going to want to "change the compressor wheel" to make it a 16g you would have almost spent the same for a brand new one. I say this because you still have to go get balanced, unless you want to destroy your new investment. im happy with my setup for now and maybe ill get a bisi cam next and so on, but as muchs as i love my cb it has limits. you can have all the power in the world but front wheel drive sucks.

[r32spec]

i have been staying on the DL in this forum, but over the years i have asked and read my ass off. i have learned from peoples mistakes and made sure not to make them. Dsm setups are the best way to go. parts are available and the snail turbos go well with there 1g or 2g eclipse manifolds. Upgrading is such a breeze. make sure to go 2.5 on intercooler piping and 2.5 for dp if ts your first setup.

[WilliamW]

sorry to aswer you late. i am on stock internals for now. i do drive normal for the most part, and when i get on it holds pretty good. For some of the guys who want to get 400hp say goodbye to traction. why would you want to sit there and spin and not go ? Just save up and by a mhi tdo5h16g. Because by the time you buy a used 14b your going to want to "change the compressor wheel" to make it a 16g you would have almost spent the same for a brand new one. I say this because you still have to go get balanced, unless you want to destroy your new investment. im happy with my setup for now and maybe ill get a bisi cam next and so on, but as muchs as i love my cb it has limits. you can have all the power in the world but front wheel drive sucks.

Well, not necessarily now. I'm kinda going this route. I have a new exhaust housing and the core of a 14b/super small 16g (maybe) and I'm going to be using the 14b for now. I originally purchased the exhaust housing for the 16G. It fits on the exhaust side. Now I also bought a new housing for the compressor for a 16g. It's way to big. **this is what led me to believe that my "16G" is not a 16G and actually a 14b** The stock 14b compressor housing fits just fine. I'll clean up the old compressor housing, paint it flat red, paint the exhaust housing so it doesn't rust up and use it. Later all I have to do is unbolt the clamp from the exhaust turbine housing and seperate the turbo. I'll buy a NEW MHI EVO III 16G turbo core and just swap it in. The most I may have to do is buy a few 6 dollar fittings for the oil and coolant, if that.

Upgrading can be done pretty easily, it just depends on how well you plan for it.




And WiKKeDV16, yeah. It's good to hear you support the doing things right. It's awful, everyone here around me keeps wanting me to just "slap it on" and start going. They don't see how much information is needed to do it right, nor do that see how much they would F*#K things up if they did things their way. One of my co workers told me to weld the waste gate onto the housing.... Everyone around me is an Idiot lol. So I tell people to either do it right, or don't do it at all. '

[WilliamW]

O.K. my turbocharger is on. Problem i have is with the housing. I make boost with the wastegate open. I'll have to port it out or something. I've found a lot of things out about DSM turbo kits that I didn't know even with all the info here. I'd hate to see a really good thread die off so I'll continue with the information.
DSM manifold: You have to widen/CUT/REDRILL ALL but two of the bolt holes to get the manifold to line up correctly.
I probably refitted it about 15-20 times getting more and more metal off to make it fit. They don't just "work", On two bolt holes you literally have to drill into the metal in a completely different spot on the manifold. I'll post pictures of every hole that needs modification. I hope this information will make it easier for others in the future.

[d112crzy]

lol, you went about the wrong way.

You should only have to molest 2 holes, not all but 2.

[WilliamW]

^ there was no way I could have gotten around it. If I take the exhaust manifold gasket and laid it down on the manifold with the exhaust ports lining up, a lot of the upper bolt holes came close but not quite there, Two of the middle lower ones I had to completely re-drill and the one on the very end I had to cut in half. Working it on I worked the upper holes out just enough with a small die grinder just enough that the manifold would sit on smoothly.


And an update on the oil restrictor from ForcedPerformance. The red one which is .100" orifice is TOO BIG! My turbo lasted half a day and started putting out smoke and there is oil in the compressor housing. Just don't get it. I was told BY THEM that it was the right application and would work fine. A smaller reducer is needed.

[cubanl81]

I have to thank everybody that has contributed all the this info. This makes me so excited to get a cb7 again. In the mean time with this info as a starting off point I can start looking out for the right parts.

This has to be one of my fav forums .

[Shadow1]

I have to thank everybody that has contributed all the this info. This makes me so excited to get a cb7 again. In the mean time with this info as a starting off point I can start looking out for the right parts.

This has to be one of my fav forums .

any time man. i made this thread not just for my info but for the info of others who want to boost. not everyone has $3-$4k to buy a kit from Turbonetics or $2k for an H22 swap. so enjoy people. make sure you read the entire thread to find the info your looking for.


if you dont you might just miss something. majority of the info in the 1st couple of pages. but read it all. i know its at like 9 or 10 pages. but its 9 or 10 pages of nothing but info

[WiKKeDV16]

and ugh.. boost gets you laid..


tee hee

[Shadow1]

and ugh.. boost gets you laid..


tee hee

yep. yall aint know? boost gets the ladies panties wet

[rexload]

So I want to boost a stock block JDM F22A in my EJ Civic
just thinking out loud....the numbers are based on a turbo setup I put together a while ago.


basic DSM setup for stock block F22:

DSM manifold - $20-40
14B turbocharger - ~80
Downpipe - 10-100 (if you know someone who can weld you can save a lot here)
Oil lines - 75
DSM SMIC used as FMIC - 15-30
Cheap piping and couplers - ~60
DSM BOV - 10-25
DSM injectors - ~50
DSM Jpipe - 5-15
Exhaust gasket, JB weld for oil pan, turbo gaskets, bolts, etc - ~40
P06 ECU and chipping kit - ~70
XTD stage3 clutch - $140

Total - $575-725 for a pretty efficient setup
plus whatever your tuner will charge you for a street tune
or $500 more for a wideband, laptop and chipburner.


A more efficient setup would include:

full 2.5" exhaust - $80-300 (nice when you know someone who can weld)
bigger intercooler - +~80
higher quality clutch - +~120-200
rebuild kit for the turbocharger - +~100
so that is another $380-680

so when everything is said and done, we are looking at anywhere between ~$500 and $1900.

~$500 if you can weld, can get some parts for free, and have tuning equipment or know somebody who can street tune for cheap
~$1900 if you rebuild the turbo, get brand name clutch, get charged a lot for the custom exhaust, get your own wideband and laptop to fine tune it, etc

Now another ~$1300 would buy you forged pistons and rods, and a much bigger turbo.

[Shadow1]

So I want to boost a stock block JDM F22A in my EJ Civic
just thinking out loud....the numbers are based on a turbo setup I put together a while ago.


basic DSM setup for stock block F22:

DSM manifold - $20-40
14B turbocharger - ~80
Downpipe - 10-100 (if you know someone who can weld you can save a lot here)
Oil lines - 75
DSM SMIC used as FMIC - 15-30
Cheap piping and couplers - ~60
DSM BOV - 10-25
DSM injectors - ~50
DSM Jpipe - 5-15
Exhaust gasket, JB weld for oil pan, turbo gaskets, bolts, etc - ~40
P06 ECU and chipping kit - ~70
XTD stage3 clutch - $140

Total - $575-725 for a pretty efficient setup
plus whatever your tuner will charge you for a street tune
or $500 more for a wideband, laptop and chipburner.


A more efficient setup would include:

full 2.5" exhaust - $80-300 (nice when you know someone who can weld)
bigger intercooler - +~80
higher quality clutch - +~120-200
rebuild kit for the turbocharger - +~100
so that is another $380-680

so when everything is said and done, we are looking at anywhere between ~$500 and $1900.

~$500 if you can weld, can get some parts for free, and have tuning equipment or know somebody who can street tune for cheap
~$1900 if you rebuild the turbo, get brand name clutch, get charged a lot for the custom exhaust, get your own wideband and laptop to fine tune it, etc

Now another ~$1300 would buy you forged pistons and rods, and a much bigger turbo.

exactly. so for the amounts above you could be pushing close to 250whp if not more with a good tune. talk to chessboxer. he's still running a DSM kit on his i do believe. so with all of this in mind, an H22 swap will always be out of the question. lol.

get a built block and head and you'll be able to turn up the boost. a stock block on a good tune should be able to handle at least 8-10psi. that should already be good enough for at least 200whp. i say at least because every motor is different. you can have a grandma owned car that was well maintainted with all the oil changes and all. treated right and that grand ma being that one owner, and that motor should be able to withstand 11 or 12psi on a real good tune. whereas a motor thats been beaten on for the entirety of its life, oil changes missed by thousands of miles take 8 psi and put a perminate peep hole in the block.