whos running a DSM set up?

[Shadow1]

and Shadow1 thanks for starting this tread ! i hope the coment i posted will help u 2 , best of luck with you're setup !

thanx man. im glad i made this thread. this will be for the ones who want to use the DSM set ups until the addiction of boost kicks in and they get the urge for more power. lol.

that should give you a start, but more people will chip in and help ya.

thanx man. for you, Boos_Lee and DrummerSteve's help in this

[CB7lx91]

The downpipe also known as the dump or O2 housing is different than that of the J-Pipe. the jpipe comes off the compressor outlet, and has a 2 bolt fitting. which leads into the i/c piping and then intercooler.

haha good point sorry about that.

I don't know how well the dsm downpipe would fit nor the j pipe for that matter with our engine bay

[Shadow1]

The downpipe also known as the dump or O2 housing is different than that of the J-Pipe. the jpipe comes off the compressor outlet, and has a 2 bolt fitting. which leads into the i/c piping and then intercooler.

glad someone cleared that up. lol.


so my question still remains. would the downpipe(j-pipe) off the DSM fit our cb7s?

[quickangel93]

glad someone cleared that up. lol.


so my question still remains. would the downpipe(j-pipe) off the DSM fit our cb7s?

no

[bagoon316]

bah the downpipe and jpipe are diff lol.

the o2 housing works, just have to finish making a downpipe.

and from seeing pics, the jpipe off the compressor housing works.

[quickangel93]

if you're not touching your bottom end, you dont need an aftemarket fuel rail. Ours will suffice.

Yes the dsm down pipe or "J Pipe" will definitely bolt onto the dsm turbo, but as for clearence issues, I have no clue.


QuickAngel, any reason you ran 2.5" and are suggesting it?

everywhere I read people are using 3" and recommend only 3" for lack of back pressure.

I'm not bashing you at all, just wondering if 2.5" would be more suitable

yea back when i was building, i talked to d112crzy and boost_lee and they said that a 2.5" turbo back would be the best for the 14b. putting a 3" on will make you loose power

[CB7lx91]

perfect thanks man. That clears a lot up. 2.5" it is

[WilliamW]

hey, Shadow1 I thought I'd bring this up really quickly. The DSM setups are either a 14b or 16G correct? Well from what I've read and experienced is that you would need an oil restriction in line on the oil feed side so you don't blow out the turbo seals.

From what I understand, the DSM turbos are made to handle oil pressures up to 55 psi. Our engines with the balance shafts still in place make about 80 psi at start up and idle. when the oil warms up it thins out and the pressures go down, but from what I've noticed is for every 1000 RPM you geat about 20 psi. I could be wrong on the exact numbers but I know that too many people have blown out the seals on their turbos and have blue smoke coming out of their exhaust.

I've found an awesome product from forcedperformance.net that you put in line on your oil feed line and it acts as two different devices. First, it acts like a filter. It has a removable filter inside of it to catch anything that is going to the turbo specifically. Second, it acts as a restriction either for ball bearing turbos (.030") or for journal bearings (.100").

I'm buying one for my 16G. They seem really helpful. I just thought I'd throw that bit of info out.

[evil_demon_01]

hey, Shadow1 I thought I'd bring this up really quickly. The DSM setups are either a 14b or 16G correct? Well from what I've read and experienced is that you would need an oil restriction in line on the oil feed side so you don't blow out the turbo seals.

From what I understand, the DSM turbos are made to handle oil pressures up to 55 psi. Our engines with the balance shafts still in place make about 80 psi at start up and idle. when the oil warms up it thins out and the pressures go down, but from what I've noticed is for every 1000 RPM you geat about 20 psi. I could be wrong on the exact numbers but I know that too many people have blown out the seals on their turbos and have blue smoke coming out of their exhaust.

I've found an awesome product from forcedperformance.net that you put in line on your oil feed line and it acts as two different devices. First, it acts like a filter. It has a removable filter inside of it to catch anything that is going to the turbo specifically. Second, it acts as a restriction either for ball bearing turbos (.030") or for journal bearings (.100").

I'm buying one for my 16G. They seem really helpful. I just thought I'd throw that bit of info out.

Its good to have a restrictor, but don't go too small. Most people use a tap in the line, which they can open or close by varying amounts.
Some of them dsm turbos already have a restrictor and the oil feed inlet.
If you use a smaller feed line it also means that a restrictor isn't neseccary.
I think my fittings have a 1.1mm hole, And I've had no issues with blowing seals

so how is it that people make runs like that on an untuned basemap? doesnt it bog out or anything?


for the chipped ECU(i plan on going with a p06 if i can find one thats good), should there be anything i should have included? i know there are different sensors and all.

what about the downpipe off the DSM kit. am i able to use that or will it be something i have to get custom made?

It depends, and untuned basemap can actually not be that bad at all drivability wise (no flatspots, or bogging)
Realistically it just means that the fuel and timing figures havn't been checked on a dyno, which is why you run the risk of damaging the engine.
E.g - There may be a timing spike when in boost, which won't show up when you are driving the car, but the tuner will see it and adjust as necessary.

As for the ECU - generally the software you use will allow you to turn off sensor you don't need that apply to the ecu you are using.
E.g - I run the P28 which has knocksensor output, however I can disable it since I don't use one.

The Dsm down pipe doesn't flow all that great - It's an instant tight 90degree bend straight off the turbo.
Sure it works, but It would be better if you could make a smoother flowing custom bend.

[Boost_Lee]

injector : ?
fuel rail : ?
header :?
gaz pump : ?
head : ?
intake : ?
BFMIC thats fits without cuting 3/4 of the bumper : ?
cams : ?
ect ect ??

i know i'm going with a brand new Big 16G, h23a head , h22 intake ... but after that i need opinion !

H22 intake?

All you will need from the listed parts above would be a Walbro 255 pump (if you are going above 10 psi, or for peace of mind). You can runs tock fuel rail, fpr, cams, all that. You'll need to make your own style intake depending on your engine bay, etc.


As for the DSM DP, I believe you can get a 2nd gen GSX dp and add an extension piece to clear the oil pan. Dont quote me on that, but I think it has been done.


And when I say basemap, that varies. There are horrible ones, and good ones...I would say that mine is more like a conservative map. Fuel table was good, and the timing was very safe. A tuned map would have been a little more aggressive/better suited for the car. I just never fine tuned anything.

[evil_demon_01]

And when I say basemap, that varies. There are horrible ones, and good ones...I would say that mine is more like a conservative map. Fuel table was good, and the timing was very safe. A tuned map would have been a little more aggressive/better suited for the car. I just never fine tuned anything.

Correct.
And your right, there are good ones, and bad ones. Generally the bad ones are just to get you to the dyno and thats it.
The good ones will allow to to wait untill you can get to a dyno.
I would still call my own map a basemap, simply because I havn't been to a dyno to have it fine tuned.

[Shadow1]

H22 intake?

All you will need from the listed parts above would be a Walbro 255 pump (if you are going above 10 psi, or for peace of mind). You can runs tock fuel rail, fpr, cams, all that. You'll need to make your own style intake depending on your engine bay, etc.


As for the DSM DP, I believe you can get a 2nd gen GSX dp and add an extension piece to clear the oil pan. Dont quote me on that, but I think it has been done.


And when I say basemap, that varies. There are horrible ones, and good ones...I would say that mine is more like a conservative map. Fuel table was good, and the timing was very safe. A tuned map would have been a little more aggressive/better suited for the car. I just never fine tuned anything.

ill check around for that GSX DP answer man. thanx

Correct.
And your right, there are good ones, and bad ones. Generally the bad ones are just to get you to the dyno and thats it.
The good ones will allow to to wait untill you can get to a dyno.
I would still call my own map a basemap, simply because I havn't been to a dyno to have it fine tuned.

you think you can get me a good basemap? i just need something that would last me a couple weeks before i get to a dyno for a good tune.

what would be a ECU you would recommend for a chip?

[quickangel93]

ill check around for that GSX DP answer man. thanx





you think you can get me a good basemap? i just need something that would last me a couple weeks before i get to a dyno for a good tune.

what would be a ECU you would recommend for a chip?

ask mrx or d112crzy to get you a basemap. p06 is the ecu to go with

[WilliamW]

Its good to have a restrictor, but don't go too small. Most people use a tap in the line, which they can open or close by varying amounts.
Some of them dsm turbos already have a restrictor and the oil feed inlet.
If you use a smaller feed line it also means that a restrictor isn't neseccary.
I think my fittings have a 1.1mm hole, And I've had no issues with blowing seals

Yeah, that .100" red filter turns out to be a 2.54 mm hole. So you're actually running smaller than they are. The one for the ball bearing turbos are .762 mm. That's REALLY small. I've actually called the makers up and asked them directly through their technical department if that restriction diameter would be good for the Honda application I'm using it for. I gave them size turbo, oil pressure and all that jazz. They did some calculations and told me that it would be fine.

If 1.1mm hole works out and a 2.54mm hole "works out". The range within these two numbers should be fine. Now there's a general range of orifices that can be used.

[evil_demon_01]

you think you can get me a good basemap? i just need something that would last me a couple weeks before i get to a dyno for a good tune.

what would be a ECU you would recommend for a chip?

Unfortunatly I can only do a basemap for Hondata.