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wideband/ecu

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    wideband/ecu

    So i am starting to tune my car again(after it got stolen, side note did get a 2 way alarm now)
    and i was wondering how to tie my aem wideband into my ecu so i can do target afr's, i need to know everything of how to do it, i am so confused as to what to do now. I have read so many different things of how to do it and all seem to have problems.
    best way i seem to have come up with is d10 where the ELD is then disable it in crome, but how to i choose to use the wideband in crome vs the stock narrow.
    I HATE TO SAY IT, but i literally need spoon fed of step by step instructions =(
    thanks for all your guys help

    btw i have a chipped p06 with vtec added, and a h22 swap with s1 cams
    Last edited by 93redcb7; 04-04-2013, 02:39 AM.

    #2
    I Googled "how to wire wideband chrome" and there is a useful response on the first page covering all the popular a/f gauges and controllers.
    '93 H22A 5SPD SE - MRT - DIY-Turbo Sizing

    Comment


      #3
      Which model of the aem wide band do u have? Because I just did this to mine the other day. No cel and afr is pretty accurate.
      The beginning of a new era............................
      165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
      184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

      Comment


        #4
        wideband # is 30-4100
        and when the car goes into warm up mode it acts super funny, like it pulls timing and runs super rich, though the sensor did work there

        Comment


          #5
          Is the wideband already hooked up?
          The beginning of a new era............................
          165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
          184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

          Comment


            #6
            Ok. This is how I did mine.
            Pr3 chipped ecu with h22 basemap.
            Used wideband o2 in place of old o2. White wire to D14 sensor input. The red and black assuming you already know where those go.
            There's a knob/switch that you have to turn clockwise to PO4 to read 0-1v.
            At pin A6 orange black, cut that wire and at A25 yellow black, cut that wire too. You're goingto use the ecu side of the wires and solder in a 1k ohm resistor to trick ecu that there is a resistance reading not causing a check engine light. From there on, you should be fine and adjust fuel pressure accordingly and your ignition timing. I set mine to a degree advanced and with vacuum hose off of the fuel pressure regulator, it's at 52 psi. (F20b). Car runs good, idles good. Good luck.
            The beginning of a new era............................
            165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
            184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

            Comment


              #7
              i guess you can just wire the power/ground to the ecu which is pin a 24/25 and this is from xenocron, that way you dont have to put the resistor in



              http://www.xenocron.com/install/Xeno...etup-Guide.htm

              Comment


                #8
                I'm not talking about power and ground. I just went straight to accessory power at the ign sw and straight to chassis ground. If you've already have those resource, why are u asking for help? I'm just answering you because I did this to my car the other day and ran fine. A24 and A25 they are referring to us basically power and ground. And d14 is the sensor input.

                What is your real question? I'm not trying to be an ass. I'm just trying to help and now I feel like you're trying to correct me.......
                The beginning of a new era............................
                165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by jhondayaaj View Post
                  I'm not talking about power and ground. I just went straight to accessory power at the ign sw and straight to chassis ground. If you've already have those resource, why are u asking for help? I'm just answering you because I did this to my car the other day and ran fine. A24 and A25 they are referring to us basically power and ground. And d14 is the sensor input.

                  What is your real question? I'm not trying to be an ass. I'm just trying to help and now I feel like you're trying to correct me.......
                  I'm trying to get lambda hooked up so I can do target afrs in Crome, and I found out that the a24/25 on hondatech I have this same post there, and xenocron had posted that link that I posted here, was wondering if that's the correct way to do it, I know they have a good rep, but they didn't give details on how to do it with Crome

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well. I'm sure when you hook it up to how I said it (assuming you're not using a second bung) d14 is the sensor input that the ecu needs signal from. When I had my stand alone I tapped into D14 with the white wire. Trust me, I did this just a few day ago. Followed this link.

                    http://www.civic-eg.com/causeforalar...uego/index.php

                    Edit: at d14, Crome should be able to c that signal.
                    The beginning of a new era............................
                    165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                    184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                    Comment


                      #11
                      hmm sounds good to me i think ill follow that, cause iv heard pulling power from ecu can fry them for some reason.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Just make sure to install a 10A fuse inline on the power wire on the wide band side when connecting to power.
                        The beginning of a new era............................
                        165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                        184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                        Comment


                          #13
                          i already have it hook up and working, and btw i do have it in a 2nd o2 bung. before i got crome pro(which i know.. stupid mistake i really didnt know much about the others when i bought it, i should have got ectune or neptune) but anyways i want to do target afr's, manually changing all the fueling going down the road isnt very fun

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Also turning it all the way to clockwise to get it to only do 0-1v that will mess with the voltages in crome since they are all 5v as the aem is designed, so will it still work ok with the ecu?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I don't know if it will work accurately without setting the wideband to read 0-1v. The stock ecu needs a 0-1v reading.
                              Can u change the software to read from 0-1v instead of 0-5v?
                              The beginning of a new era............................
                              165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                              184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                              Comment

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