Announcement

Collapse

Please DO NOT Post In The General Section

From this point on until otherwise briefed, posting in the general section of Performance Tech is prohibited. The only thing to remain here will be the stickies. We would just delete this section, but that would cause unintended results.


The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.


For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.


Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.

Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
See more
See less

Wideband choices

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Wideband choices

    I am getting ready to purchase a wideband o2. I have done some research and narrowed it done to two.

    NGK AFX $290ish
    Innovate Mtx. $200ish

    It seems to me you either like one and hate the other. Innovate uses Bosch sensor which can apparrently go bad frequently. Since this is my DD I would like reliability. I don't mind paying for it if I have to.

    The NGK gauge only reads to 16. I don't think that should be a problem but I am still learning.

    Anybody have any input?

    Should I use this on place of my sensor? Or tune and remove it?

    P28 s300. Jdm h22. Soon to have IAB control.

    Plans are rdx injectors euro r mani. Some header hytech or vibrant type s cams. Maybe pistons too
    I know the euro r doesn't have IAB. But I do now.

    Thanks

    Steve

    #2
    Unrelated to your post, but with those other modifications I'd go with Skunk2 Tuner2 or Stage 2 BLOX cams. They behave nicely below the VTEC threshold but still make decent power throughout. The Type S cams are going to leave you wanting more.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

    Comment


      #3
      IDK much about eithe rof the two you listed. I am running hte AEM UGEO Wideband linked to my P28 s300 setup.

      The AEM unit is in the same price range as well.
      http://www.tunersports.com/aem-digit...4100_p652.html
      -1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
      -1993 Accord EX SOLD
      -1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
      -2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4

      Comment


        #4
        I had an Innovative LC-1 on my Neon. It worked great until it didn't. Sent it in and they returned it working properly. Didn't have any problems after that.
        '93 H22A 5SPD SE - MRT - DIY-Turbo Sizing

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks. With those cams do I need a valve upgrade?

          Gunrunner

          Are you happy with the AEM unit? Is it on the car all the time? And for how long.

          Thanks

          Steve

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by domesticated View Post
            I had an Innovative LC-1 on my Neon. It worked great until it didn't. Sent it in and they returned it working properly. Didn't have any problems after that.
            Most of the negative stuff I've read has been on the LC-1. I can't find too much negative on the Mtx. It is newer and supposedly reads faster

            Steve
            Last edited by Stoner51; 03-27-2013, 04:01 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              I've been using an lc-1 for just over a month now and everything seems fine. I always turn the key on for about 10 seconds just to make sure the sensor is heated up properly. Not sure if It's necessary but I feel it's better safe than sorry.

              Comment


                #8
                I used the LC-1 on the s300 and never had any problems with it, But I do also remember reading bad things about it before I brought it.
                You can buy replacement sensors for it if they do go bad - Which honestly that could happen to ANY sensor.

                The only time I had an issue was when, my front engine mount broke and the sensor hit the chassis damaging it.


                Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

                My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

                A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

                If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks. I like to hear the positive feedback for the innovative.

                  I will prob go that route.

                  steve

                  Comment


                    #10
                    My only gripe is the somewhat vague manual. I ended up having 1 wire in the wrong place and spent 2 hours staring at the book and my wires until I figured it out. Doesn't help that I'm terrible at wiring.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Stoner51 View Post
                      Gunrunner

                      Are you happy with the AEM unit? Is it on the car all the time? And for how long.

                      Thanks

                      Steve
                      I'm satisfied with it. The gauge it mounted in the dash an it is in the car all the time. It is wired to switch power, so when I turn the key and all the lights on the dash comes on the wideband comes on and warms up as well. It has an output wire to run to ecu, so it is my only O2 sensor on the car.

                      As someone said about the other setups, you can buy the AEM replacement sensor for about $60 I believe. All have the potential to go bad.

                      My setup:

                      Last edited by GunRunner; 03-28-2013, 06:45 AM.
                      -1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
                      -1993 Accord EX SOLD
                      -1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
                      -2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Nice setup GunRunner!

                        I vouch for the AEM UEGO as well

                        Comment


                          #13
                          the innovate on my friend's t-bird is kinda buggy but works flawlessly when it does. could be a bad ground or something.

                          im tempted on getting innovate's new portable unit.
                          I <3 G60.

                          0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I ordered the innovate LC-1. Hope to put in this weekend.
                            I assume my stock h22 map is rich.

                            steve

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Wideband came today and I'm making sure I get my wiring ready.

                              Here goes any help is appreciated. I plan to make I DIY as I do this.

                              Red wire to power. Can I use my amp?
                              Blue and white to t stat ECU ground. Why don't they just make this One wire
                              Brown to d10 cut it disable ELD and solder brown to the ecu side of D10
                              yellow to the gauge.
                              Black for calibration and LEd to ground I plan under the shifter somewhere

                              Or I can use the analog plug on the S300 '
                              red blue white the same.
                              brown to a1 enable a0 as innovate wideband
                              Ground the last two black wires on the analog section of the plug
                              Yellow to gauge.
                              This way I could still use the ELD and not cut the wire to the ECU
                              If I wire it this way I don't have to cut the r136 and r136 resistors on the ecu board.
                              correct?

                              Does that cover it?

                              steve

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X