chipped p28 questions

[IridiumCore]

I'm looking to get a chipped p28. My p13 is damaged from my bad wiring.
With the one I'm thinkg about getting they are asking thing I have clue on.
1.rev limit- what is it, what does it affect, and what would be a good one to sete. Should I leave that stock I have no turbo or anything
2. Do I want a 2 step rev limit. I'm not racing, its my daily driver
3. I noticed that my vtec kicks in at 5300 rpms what would changing that affect say if had kick in at about 4500 rpms.
4. The speed limiter I want off.

So with a h22a base map what would you all reccomend.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Well

You wont like this, but my recommendation is to not change anything.

Get a stock base map, then take that base map and drive your car directly to a tuner, then get a tune.

You should NOT : hit redline, go above the posted speed limit, go past about half throttle, hit vtec, or any other maneuver that would be considered fun or spirited driving, on the chip that was not tuned for YOUR engine and car.

Base maps are exactly that a base used to get you to the tuner and to start tuning off of. They are not meant to be driven on for extended time, or with any amount of force.

This is not like bolting on a cold air intake, this is the program that is telling your engine what to do. If the person who is selling you the chip presses the wrong button, or doesn't know what they are doing your engine can blow up, and blow up quickly.

Asking some of the questions that you asked, tells me that you really need to seek out a professional tuner and allow them to tune your car.

[Warudakumi]

I highly recommend you get all the boltons you want for your CB7 if you are going to go with a chipped p28. Tuning is expensive unless you got a homie hookup and honestly you don't want to be running off a base tune or other peoples maps with similar setups. From the start no two engines are alike at all no matter the year or make when it comes to tuning.

If you have all you want then you can do a one time dyno run and get a chip burned and be done with it....or If you want to build onto your engine more in the longrun I highly recommend a Neptune RTP system because it can be flashed unlimited times and you can turn on and off and control options yourself via software for 2-step, V-TEC lo-hi RPM, etc. by yourself.

Ninja Edit: Oh btw... if you are looking to change the V-tec x-over you can do the budget V-AFC
You can also combine the Apexi Rev Speed Meter as those cut out the speed govenor. But then of course you will still need a new ECU since yours is damaged but I'm sure this route would be cheaper than getting dyno time to tune a p28 tuned correctly.

[Ghetto_CB7]

He probably does not need dyno time.

A simple wideband install and a few street pulls is all that is required to adjust the base map and make sure everything is as it should be.

I am sure there are some reputable people who can do a quick simple almost stock street tune in NJ for a reasonable price ($150)

To the OP, I do not recommend that you do the tuning yourself. Judging by your original post you do not seem to have much experience with engines and tuning is not an area to just go blindly marching into.

All of the tuning programs available allow the user to do their own tuning, that does not mean the user should. Adjusting something as simple as the vtec cross over could be detrimental on the wrong map. Many tuners are lazy and only tune low cam up to the vtec cross over, and only tune the high cam tables from crossover to redline. This may not sound dangerous, but if you drop vtec engagement by 1000 rpm you would then be on a completely untuned portion of the map. If the tuner did not adjust this part correctly, especially under 4 cell tracing (you could be using even lower rpm cells) you could encounter a super lean area and start to melt a piston.

Will this happen, probably not immediately, but vtec crossover in my experience usually goes a bit lean without correction anyway, if the map were to be un tuned in that region it could be even worse.

Street tuning is not that expensive when you consider what is at stake, think of it as insurance for your engine investments. Even after adding another bolt on, do you NEED to get a tune, probably not, but is it worth it, in my opinion a stock tune, then one with all of your bolt ons on is well worth the money.

My bolt ons are not exactly standard, but I picked up 26whp over stock, to me that is a big gain to not be tuned for. What I mean by that is I would not have felt comfortable driving my car with a stock map with my bolt ons. In fact anyone with serious bolt ons should get tuned after each one.

I picked up about 15 whp from intake upgrades and a tune, then another 10 with the bisi header. Both of those jumps warrant a tune, especially when you consider how vastly they changed my power band.

[IridiumCore]

Sorry for the delay. I'm thinking a need a new ECU because mine is not working right. I'm not getting any codes but a few days after the first few easy drives to the store I took it on 95. I got CEL at 4000rpms for the knock and 02. I noticed a little before the light I had a burnt plastic smell. My ECU was damaged. So know when I drive with that ECU I get those codes at 4000rpms like clock work. I had the two sensors checked out and they checked out fine. Since this is my DD I keep it under 70mph to not get the CEL but it's still killing my gas.

As far as mods the only thing I was planning for now was a high flow intake and exhaust. Speaking of which, Could I get those same lights if there is too much pressure in the exhaust and the car is not breathing right.

Gents I don't know anything about this stuff. All I know is that my gas in going fast, if I push past 4000rpm I get CELs- 01 & 23, she starts running funny, and my P13 has a burn mark on it.