H22 cam upgrades

[Eric91Z]

How about any suggestions for vendor for the Walbro fuel pump for the Accord? And who is this "SMSP"? Do they have a website or anything I can check out?

Thanks again for all the input.

[h22sparkle]

get one from ebay for a 90-93 accord i have a venom 255 just make sure its a 255 though and youll be safe

[DrLove'sKuDang]

depending on the tuners, 200whp can be made easily. i made 195whp and all i have are the crower cams that fizz mentioned. and that was with a full apex ws exhaust bolted on. had i taken off the axleback or ran with an evo/n1 exhaust like all those loudass cars do... i woulda made over 200. although i do want to go back soon and retune, i want to lower vtec and lean it out a little more.

[BustedLX]

<A little late here> For your cam suggestion it really depends on how much you have to spend.

With regards to Crower I personally don't know anyone running an H22 with Crower cams other then DrLove'sKuDang and his numbers are decent and probably be better with some tuning.

Skunk2's Stage2 cam's specs more closely resemble Crower's stage3 then their stage2 the cam is more agressive and does sacrifice a bit more torque to make HP Don't get me wrong you will see an increase in both the numbers just won't be as close like they are with Stock cams.

Type-S cams are great cams. They're more aggressive then stock cams and most likely where aftermarket cams get there genes from. What I read earlier in the thread about the Type-S cams not a good idea because of head surface is non-sense. Cams are cams you will definately need a valve train upgrade to use any of the above even the Type-S cams. You will get valve float if you run the stock H22 springs with any of the above cams so atleast springs are necessary and you can get by with just changing the springs and retainers when you change the cams so you don't have to pull the head when you do it.

Porting the head is not entirely necessary. The H22A's head has excellent airflow characteristics for a stock head. More is to be gained in working the intake manifold and TB then the head. A good machinest with experiance can get you a little more out of this head just make sure it's someone who knows his stuff. If they take off to much they slow the intake charge down to much and you start losing power rather then making it. More flow isn't always a good thing.

As for headers.... well, All this talk about the almightly superior JDM header gives me a headache. Yes it is a very good design header in the terms that is flows well for a STOCK header but there are many aftermarket headers that will free up power. Maybe not 20+hp like many expect a header to but more HP is more HP none the less.

There is no way an aftermarket header will cause you to LOSE power of over the stock header unless it's incredibly turbulant header and if that where the case why would you put such a peice of shit on your car anyway.

I happen to own a POS eBay Megan ceramicly coated header that cost me $150 shipped to my door last year when I did my swap and my numbers don't lie plus the long kill list my engine has with doesn't lie either. I'm proud of this POS header because it does flow better then the stock, and with larger primaries helps me get the exhaust gases out faster and less turbulantly.

But if you want a high quality header then the choice is clear. Greddy should be your only choice. Spending an additional $400-$600 more for an SMSP header is just ludicris when the numbers can't justify the additional expense. Expect to pay from $360-$400 for a Greddy.

As for the Walbro pump. PM PDR on HS about it. He sells Walbro pumps for $95 shipped +3% paypal fee. These are for the 255lph in-tank pump. Just tell him your make and model car, paypal him, and he'll get you a pump in the mail. Normally ships and arrives next day. I've bought a few pumps from him and have always had a good expeiance.

[RocSteadyNy]

<A little late here> For your cam suggestion it really depends on how much you have to spend.

With regards to Crower I personally don't know anyone running an H22 with Crower cams other then DrLove'sKuDang and his numbers are decent and probably be better with some tuning.

Skunk2's Stage2 cam's specs more closely resemble Crower's stage3 then their stage2 the cam is more agressive and does sacrifice a bit more torque to make HP Don't get me wrong you will see an increase in both the numbers just won't be as close like they are with Stock cams.

Type-S cams are great cams. They're more aggressive then stock cams and most likely where aftermarket cams get there genes from. What I read earlier in the thread about the Type-S cams not a good idea because of head surface is non-sense. Cams are cams you will definately need a valve train upgrade to use any of the above even the Type-S cams. You will get valve float if you run the stock H22 springs with any of the above cams so atleast springs are necessary and you can get by with just changing the springs and retainers when you change the cams so you don't have to pull the head when you do it.

Porting the head is not entirely necessary. The H22A's head has excellent airflow characteristics for a stock head. More is to be gained in working the intake manifold and TB then the head. A good machinest with experiance can get you a little more out of this head just make sure it's someone who knows his stuff. If they take off to much they slow the intake charge down to much and you start losing power rather then making it. More flow isn't always a good thing.

As for headers.... well, All this talk about the almightly superior JDM header gives me a headache. Yes it is a very good design header in the terms that is flows well for a STOCK header but there are many aftermarket headers that will free up power. Maybe not 20+hp like many expect a header to but more HP is more HP none the less.

There is no way an aftermarket header will cause you to LOSE power of over the stock header unless it's incredibly turbulant header and if that where the case why would you put such a peice of shit on your car anyway.

I happen to own a POS eBay Megan ceramicly coated header that cost me $150 shipped to my door last year when I did my swap and my numbers don't lie plus the long kill list my engine has with doesn't lie either. I'm proud of this POS header because it does flow better then the stock, and with larger primaries helps me get the exhaust gases out faster and less turbulantly.

But if you want a high quality header then the choice is clear. Greddy should be your only choice. Spending an additional $400-$600 more for an SMSP header is just ludicris when the numbers can't justify the additional expense. Expect to pay from $360-$400 for a Greddy.

As for the Walbro pump. PM PDR on HS about it. He sells Walbro pumps for $95 shipped +3% paypal fee. These are for the 255lph in-tank pump. Just tell him your make and model car, paypal him, and he'll get you a pump in the mail. Normally ships and arrives next day. I've bought a few pumps from him and have always had a good expeiance.

hey busted, who is this, PDR you talk off, and what is HS, is that HondaSwap. cause i went there and couldn't find him.

[cb9tunerguy]

i have an eg civic with an h22a swap, i would highly recommend crower stage 2 cams for your engine, you should also upgrade the the valve springs and retainers, you can get these items also from crower

[aero]

hey busted, who is this, PDR you talk off, and what is HS, is that HondaSwap. cause i went there and couldn't find him.

HondaSociety

[RocSteadyNy]

thanks, i didn't know what he was talking about.

[ZigenBallZ]

Is peedee still on HS even?

Talk to eddiebx or Willie/v4lu3s... awesome prices on stuff...