skunk2 TB installed...idle problems

[exratedaccord93]

Just installed my long awaited skunk 2 TB and stock upper plenum (some of you know that I had a huge nissan throttle body welded onto the plenum that came on the motor). After I swapped everything over, I test drove it and threw a code 12 (egr). Now it idles around 2500 and when I adjust the throttle cable, it goes down but then it goes back up after drving a little. I haven't had time to adjust the actual idle screw because ther stupid thing is on the bottom of the TB. Anyways, i made sure that all my vacuum lines were connected. If you guys can offer me any help, please do.

[timmy0tool]

with my LX cp_mike told me that the throttle cables are shorter for some reason compared to EX/SE models. therefore i had to set the cable all the way to one side to get the cable to fit over the TB rotor. with this the cable had no slack and was keeping the TB open just enough to idle at 1.5k rpms. i bent the cable bracket to compensate. this could be your high idle problem. the TB idle screw is the next thing to adjust.

also make sure your TPS sensor is connected correctly. then clear the codes and retest. i have no clue why the CEL is pointing to the EGR. i hope it works for you soon bro!

[exratedaccord93]

yeah, I think I also may have a vacuum leak. I just don't have the time to mess with it.

[rickyduckworth]

the EGR code is something related to a fucked up egr OR just a funky plug/connection.....

to check if the idle is related to the cable, simply unhook it from the throttle rotor and if it's good, then that's the issue.....if not, keep searching but a vacuum leak could easily cause it to idle high.....check the hose going from the egr to the IM and check all the hoses on the back/driver's side of the IM......did you hook them all up correctly?

[owequitit]

The usual cause of an EGR light is the EGR lift solenoid.

Maybe when you plugged it back in, the plug didn't seat properly. Also, make sure all the purge canister and EGR vacuum tubes are accounted for. Emmissions wasn't exactly the Skunk 2 TB's thing, so maybe you will have to T into another line.

As far as the idle goes, it is supposed to be adjusted from the factory, but some of their stuff kinda makes me wonder. I would try the stop screw first and then the cable.

Or the other way around, doesn't really matter.

[exratedaccord93]

thanks for the feedback guys

[exratedaccord93]

skunk2 TB installed...idle problems

Okay, here's the deal. I bought my motor with this crazy 95mm nissan TB welded to my stock h22 manifold. I kept throwing a TPS code because it was a nissan TPS so I bought another stock h22 maifold and a skunk 2 68 mm TB. I finally swap over the upper plenum of the mani I bought along with the skunk 2 TB thinking this would solve my problems. Whn I did the upper plenum swap, I just made the gaskets for the TB and where the upper plenum attatches. Well, now my car idles at anywhere from 2500 to 3000rpms even after I adjust the idle. I'll adjust it and then after driving it a while it will jump back up like my throttle is sticking. I am also throwing an EGR code and sometimes a map sensor. I'm really confused at what I did wrong. Oh yeah, the stock mani that I bought was off of a 5th gen prelude. I didn't think this would make a difference because there were just a few vacuum nipples that were different. My friend said that the gaskets that I made might of blocked off something important since I just cut out the maid holes. Also, since putting on the smaller TB (which I thought would improve power), my car feels a lot slower all through the power band. VTEC used to engage at 5200 and now it's at 5400. I want to swap that stupid nissan TB back on and try to calibrate the TPS because of all these problems with the new settup. Let me know any imput on what you guys think. thanks


Keith

[owequitit]

I merged your threads on this issue to try to keep everything together.

As for the Skunk 2 TB, it should have included a new gasket.

If you were mindful of the airpassages though, then it shouldn't be a problem.

The Skunk 2 stuff can be a little tricky, because they always say that it fits everything, and it may not at least without modification.

1) the first thing that is different about the Skunk 2 TB's vs a 90-93 Accord is the Map sensor location. The Skunk 2 TB has accomodation for a TB mounted map sensor like the OBD-II Accords. I don't know if 94-95's were like this also, but I know 96+ is. Many of the Civics have it mounted there as well.

To solve this you can do one of two things, you can either get a TB mounted Honda Map Sensor, as the 90-93 Accord map sensor has little ears around the vaccum nipple that will prevent it from mounting flush to the TB. You can trim the ears off of our MAP sensor and mount it on the TB, or you can make a vacuum nipple and insert it into the TB passage so that you can attach the stock vacuum tube to the TB and leave your map alone. They all have advantages and disadvantages, so you are free to choose which works best. A note if you decide to use a TB mounted MAP sensor. The plugs are different so you will either have to build an adapter harness to go between the stock plug and the TB map sensor, or you will have to modify your stock harness. I just built an adapter harness for Ray's car (he ended up not liking the TB anyway...)

As far as the throttle sticking, that seems to be a common problem. The Skunk 2 TB does not employ a non-centering plate like Honda does, so they are prone to sticking for some reason. You should be able to sand the TB bore somewhat which should result in the plate coming shut as it should. Their a little tricky to get working right. I wish I had a finite solution to that problem, but Ray got tired of his before we had it all worked out. You may also try greasing it up, as they don't seem to be greased from the factory.

If you want to use the Nissan TB, it will work fine as long as it has a TPS that shows 0V at idle and 4V at WOT.

You may have to calibrate it, but that shouldn't be too bad. You will either have to figure out a way to tap into the TPS wiring, or you can jump the two terminals at the ECU and see what it returns. The ECU method is probably easier and safer, but you will need to people. You could alternately apply power and ground to the TPS terminals and adjust it that way. A good electrical troubleshooting manual should have all the wire info in it for you, I know Helms does.

Good luck and sorry to hear you are having so much trouble.

[exratedaccord93]

^ thanks for the thoughtful reply. I for got that I already made a thread on this.


I checked the plenum that has the nissan TB that I took off and I found something interesting. the gasket that I made for it might be blocking an important port that needs air. I followed the port and it's the IAC valve which would definately affect the idle. I'm still not sure why the egr would throw a code but I'll try buying the right gasket and swapping them. Kinda sucks because I need to take the whole thing off again but if this will fix it, It will be worth it.

I believe that the throttle rotor needs to be lubed up also. It feels sticky and my throttle response sucks hard core. With this combination of problems, I think I can get it right. If my egr is still throwing a code, I won't worry about it cuz I'm about to run a chipped p28 when I get it tuned. Let me know what you guys think.

KEith

[owequitit]

^ thanks for the thoughtful reply. I for got that I already made a thread on this.


I checked the plenum that has the nissan TB that I took off and I found something interesting. the gasket that I made for it might be blocking an important port that needs air. I followed the port and it's the IAC valve which would definately affect the idle. I'm still not sure why the egr would throw a code but I'll try buying the right gasket and swapping them. Kinda sucks because I need to take the whole thing off again but if this will fix it, It will be worth it.

I believe that the throttle rotor needs to be lubed up also. It feels sticky and my throttle response sucks hard core. With this combination of problems, I think I can get it right. If my egr is still throwing a code, I won't worry about it cuz I'm about to run a chipped p28 when I get it tuned. Let me know what you guys think.

KEith

No problem...

Hopefully, if you have the IACV port plugged, that will help significantly.

We had Ray's idling normally, and not throwing any codes, but it kept sticking open, but only when the car was running... .

A chipped P28 would help your cause as far as EGR is concerned. The only other thing I can think of is that maybe on some off chance, the EGR was failing anyway. Is it giving you the EGR code for the lift solenoid?

[exratedaccord93]

I'm getting a code 12 which just says egr. I'll have to take the plenum off and swap gaskets for sure and then I'll see if my egr is still throwing a code.

[owequitit]

Good luck, keep us posted.

[exratedaccord93]

Okay, I made a new gasket with the IACV holes cut out. It still surges at idle (goes from 1000 to 1500 and then back down to 1000 repeatedly) and I'm still throwing a egr code. Are there any vacuum lines that hook up directly into the TB because I found a hole that is sucking in air. It's on the bottom but there is no nipple to hook a line up to it. When I put my finger over it to plug it up, it doesn't effect the idle at all. Any help from those who have the Skunk 2 mani would be great. Thanks for the replies ahead of time!
Keith

[exratedaccord93]

Okay...another update.
I just got my p06 back from j-k tuning and plugged it up. Now, it no longer surges but it's just lopey at idle. No CELs because the p06 is run for the egr. We'll see if the ecu fixes the problem....